Trains trains trains Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 Hello, I have undertaken a little project. This is my Triang Nellie and i have taken the resister? off as it had a terrible soldering job done. What do I need to replace this? ( The resister? photo is below)./media/tinymce_upload/b73c557d47a9aaf2d5470713ea1555e4.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/1b4c4a23ecbed665dcff88c09a19b948.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trains trains trains Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 Hello, I am tring to get my Triang Nellie working but it is missing the old 'resistor'? Is there a more modern version to this old 'resistor'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnGee Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 I am assuming that by 'resistor' you actually mean 'capacitor'! If so then it doesn't matter that it's missing.(It was there to stop interference on old teles and radios, completely redundant nowadays.) If you do really mean 'resistor' then you'll have to wait for someone who knows more about Triang Nellie than I do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trains trains trains Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 Hello, I am talking about the little bulb-like object at the top of the page, right near the X224 part number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 Part X.297 capacitor. I know where there a few thousand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trains trains trains Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 That's the one! Do I need this on the locomotive if it doesn't already have it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 It's usually a white cap that goes from a joint in the pick-up wire to a screw on top of the chassis block at the back of the cab. Your loco will run fine without it, just don't connect the live wire to the screw without a cap there or you'll have a short. Take the pick-up wire direct to the insulated brush and it'll be fine. Things to watch out for with this loco, if it's a later version is the pick-up in place? they are sprung into position and are easily lost. Is the insulator in place on the brush spring? It should be on the LHS when looking to the front of the loco. The motor drives to the rear axle. The metal tyres on the wheels have a habit of coming loose and can cause a short circuit with the metal chassis. Easy to clip back into place but can be a real pain. As lots of young people had these locos the wheels may have been off at some point. Check the insulated wheels are on the correct side of the chassis (with the pick-up). Also, if it seems stiff try rotating the wheels with the motor removed, if the wheels have been off they might not have been put back on properly and the chassis might need quartering Correctly. If you have a very late version of this loco the cog on the axle will be plastic. If the motor runs but the loco doesn't move, especially with a couple of wagons in tow the plastic cog has stripped on the axle and a replacement is needed. I'd go for one of the older chassis as a replacement with a brass cog. They are far superior. There are also a couple of versions with different motors but if yours had the white cap I'd assume it's an X04 type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 As Margate-Richmond said it is a capacitor, they looked like that in the sixties, I have a Nellie in the loft but I think I removed that or it broke. It will not stop your loco working if it is missing, I think they were about 100 pF but I am not sure. TVs are still susceptical to interference from model railways, I notice on mine, it misses the odd frame even worse if you are recording something on a box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trains trains trains Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 Hello, thank you all for the great responses, very helpful indeed. I think it is an early version as it has the metal cog and the old type motor. I do find that one of the wheels does come loose and it can be really annoying. Now one more question. When running, the wheels make a grinding noise like something is not right. It is not the pickups and not the wheel tire rim, any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 My one I changed the wheels to Romform ones, that was way back in the eighties, when it was easy to get the wheels. I must try it out and see if it still runs. It suffered a lot of abuse when I was a child. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 It's the cap and it doesn't need it to work. It's purely there to stop Television and Radio interference. I used to replace them but I don't bother any more. Just make sure that any part of the lead from the pick-up that is bare wire can't contact the metal of the chassis or you'll get a short. Is the grinding noise definitely coming from the wheels? Try running it off the track and see if it's still there. I thought all these locos had fairly decent small flanges even the early ones with solid wheels so they should be OK with modern track. There might be some dirt or other debris in the mechanism somewhere. Is the pick-up rubbing on the wheels properly or getting stuck in the spokes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 The cap is advisable, it stops a lot of TV interference and your neighbours will thank you for it. There are also hefty fines for creating TV and radio interference. The white capacitors decay over time and are best replaced with new. Here's a new one. /media/tinymce_upload/2e56944c8fdc780c68766370c0e0d4cf.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 Do Hornby still put caps in the power connecting clips? I think people with DCC are supposed to take them Out if they do. I used to have some straight standard track with the cap under the rails in the grey base. I used to notice interference when we had a CRT television, I can't say I've noticed it with the more modern one we have now but must say I've not taken much notice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 Do Hornby still put caps in the power connecting clips?.Yes they do ... the capacitors are present in the R602, R8206 and R8201 products. They are not present in the DCC R8241 and R8242 products. Yes ... the capacitors should be removed from the Analogue track products when DCC working. Which is the very reason why DCC have their own dedicated track power connector products..PS - This question is taking this thread 'off topic'. The original question related to locomotive motor suppression, not track suppression. This question should have been asked as a new separate topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWR 14xx Tank Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 Most capacitors I have seen in Tri-Ang locomotives have been a lightish - grey cylindrical shape / colour. I ended up melting one after not properly paying attention to where the side of the soldering iron was - won't make that mistake again! I think your loco has a different capacitor in it though, after a brief search, but after I removed the melted capacitor from my locomotive, it worked completely fine without, and no interference on TV's, radios, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rana Temporia Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 ChrisSAF, sorry if the question seemed out of context, the reason I asked was to see if the power supply had a cap in it so that if the original poster left the cap off the Nellie it would still have some interference suppression in the electrical circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 Oh I see .... that wasn't made clear. I'll leave it here then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 The white/grey tube type capacitors were replaced with ceramic disc capacitor part x.297 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 The white/grey tube type capacitors were replaced with ceramic disc capacitor part x.297 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 The white/grey tube type capacitors were replaced with ceramic disc capacitor part x.297 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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