Scenery question about fixing items

[keithp1707821843]

Hello

Now finishing my layout and have decided that I want to be able to remove any buildings for later use. So any ideas which glue would be easiest to remove? I was thinking PVA rather than the glue I use to assemble the buildings.It is only some items that I am fixing, the others will be freestanding.

Keith

[37lover]

How about blue tac, black tac, or tacky wax?

[keithp1707821843]

Yep, thought about that as well. Just that for some of the smaller items - eg telegraph poles it might not work.

[37lover]

You only mentioned buildings in your first post! ☹️.

I have some telegraph poles set into small lengths of brass tube. The tube is glued in the baseboard with the top just flush with the scenery. Mine are loose but a small dab of glue would probably hold in position but allow removal.

You might spot the poles on my third photo in the Back Scenes thread.

[keithp1707821843]

Yes sorry about that!

Your idea sounds good, as does the blue tack idea.

[morairamike]

If you wish to remove them later why do you have to glue them down. Unless you are moving your layout that is.

On mine some buildings are glued down others are just placed on the layout. Engine shed and the yard buildings are loose. Small card board locators position them. The church is loose. If they are lit then the wires are fed thru from underneath to miniature plug and sockets so that they can be unplugged. Works for me. Trees with exposed roots are stuck down trees with thinks are pushed into a hole drilled in the base material.

[Bulleidboy]

/media/tinymce_upload/7c18d4bbdecb6d4d250f639df3129500.jpgAll of my buildings are freestanding - I didn't feel the need to glue them down.

https://flic.kr/p/2iZXtvw

[Buz]

Hi keihtp

I don't Purposely glue buildings down as I like to light them up and that would prevent lamp or diode change as necessary.

If they get stuck its only because a little scenic glue PVA water dish-washing liquid mix has seeped underneath in which case hot soapy water will release them quite easy, unless it's a card building which I prefer not to use.

Just a side thought to this if you have street lights try and get the ones with the socket base so you can take out the lights if you need to work in that area or for some reason move the layout  it helps save on breakages

regards John.

[96RAF]

I have only ever plonked buildings in place, as I never really got to the full scenic scatter stage. Having locators is a good idea. Lighting is usually by way of 2-pin plugs to aid installation and building maintenance.

Telegraph poles and trees, signs, etc  all use the posts in holes method.

People are fitted with clear plastic bases and moveable for variety. Only platform accessories are glued in place.

[keithp1707821843]

OK that is all helpful thanks.

[81F]

 If your buildings are plastic I would suggest watered down PVA, which I discovered by accident (see below)

 

The trouble with buildings is that they are built into the ground and don't just sit on top. So just placing them on the layout can leave a very unrealistic gap unless both surfaces are perfectly flat. For that reason I set my buildigng into the layout by applying scatter right up to the wall, In doing so the diluted PVA just holds them in place.

 

However, as my buildings are plastic the bond is not that good and some have come away allowing them to be easily removed while leaving a recess  which allows easy relocation. Also PVA is water soluable so you could use water to remove more stubbonly stuck buildings if you are dismantling your layout.

[The Duke 71000]

Bulleidboy,

There's a flat to let, what's the rent ?

Nice picture, you sure you haven't glued them down !

 

The Duke 71000 - generating 3,295hp up Beattock from a standing start.