Jump to content

Class 105 struggles to start


Trainmodeller35

Recommended Posts

I have a class 105 DMU that I just got second hand. It runs quite well but when I turn my controller up a bit it won't start. It won't move at all until I turn the power to almost full and then it shoots off. After it's moving, it runs fine and I have very good control over it, it just seems to be starting it that's the issue. My best guess is that it's the controller, rather than the train. I'm using the basic hornby dc controller so perhaps that's the problem. I was just wondering if someone more experienced had any other ideas about this and how to fix it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It could be that there is resistance of some sort in the drive between the motor and wheels that needs a higher power setting than normal to overcome it from rest.  Do Bachmann use a motor bogie or is it a body-mounted motor with a drive shaft and gear tower?  Have you checked to see whether gears and bearings are lubricated? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you sure this train is not DCC Fitted?

I've had this issue in the past with a Bachmann DCC Fitted Class 150 (I didn't know it was fitted - 2nd hand). It had completely no response, lights off, until nearly full power, exactly as you say. The Decoder manual for these decoders I think mentions that they should not be used with these types of controllers. Well it certainly puzzled me for a while given that the train shouldn't have been DCC Fitted. I was also using the basic Hornby controller at that point.

However, if there is any buzz or lights come on before it shoots off, it is likely to be a drive issue as suggested above.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assuming the loco does not have a decoder fitted or a sticky drive train as per replies above, then:

 

There are several different basic set controllers, some better than others.

 

R965

/media/tinymce_upload/10747e10da1edb8b26cc72ebc44106c7.jpg

 

R8250

/media/tinymce_upload/91f3a62d9978ea1797155a094b6a1877.jpg

 

R7229

/media/tinymce_upload/97501143387173a1f234684e081afa03.jpg

 

Listed chronologically, oldest first, newest last.

 

These are all very basic controllers and not considered good controllers for the serious layout builder. The R965 China Made one [there is also a Margate made version with the same R965 stock code] is considered the best of the three.

 

The R8250 has a tendancy to over heat and cut out unless running very modern small low power locomotives at moderate speed.

 

The R7229 tends to be buzzy when the control knob is just starting to be turned and that there is some considerable latency (lag) in the control when operating more current hungry locomotives.

 

Neither the R8250 nor the R7229 seem to work well with older locomotives and are much better suited to much newer low power motors used in modern locomotives.

 

So which one is yours? Your issue description would seem to match the characteristics of the R7229.

 

If it is a controller / loco age mismatch, Then the only real solution is to invest in a proper quality controller.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you sure this train is not DCC Fitted?

I've had this issue in the past with a Bachmann DCC Fitted Class 150 (I didn't know it was fitted - 2nd hand). It had completely no response, lights off, until nearly full power, exactly as you say. The Decoder manual for these decoders I think mentions that they should not be used with these types of controllers. Well it certainly puzzled me for a while given that the train shouldn't have been DCC Fitted. I was also using the basic Hornby controller at that point.

However, if there is any buzz or lights come on before it shoots off, it is likely to be a drive issue as suggested above.

It is actually DCC fitted. I didn't realise it was going to be DCC fitted and it ran fine with my DC controller so I just ran it like that. Guess I'll be shopping for a DCC controller then!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guess I'll be shopping for a DCC controller then!

 

It would be easier to convert the DCC fitted loco back to DC than to change the DC Controller to DCC. It is not just not a case of buying a DCC controller and away you go.

 

The track power connectors if R602 or R8206 are DC Analogue ones and will need replacing / modifying for DCC [they corrupt DCC data commands].

 

The points will need DCC point clips added to make the layout all live.

 

And more importantly, all your existing DC Analogue fleet will need to have decoders fitted. You shouldn't use a DCC Controller to operate your DC Analogue locos else you will burn out the motors .... not even if the controller supports a 'zero address' function.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
  • Create New...