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Convert non dcc to dcc


Thechipman

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Hi all this has probably already been covered but I can't find, so my apologies if it has been covered. I have a non dcc mainline collet I believe it to be a 0-6-0 please see pictures. I am trying to convert this to dcc but can't find where to put the red and black wires. In the photos you will see two connections that I belive to be for orange and grey wires, also you will see a single connection I don't know if red or black goes to that and where would the remaining wire connect to. Please help I will be very grateful for any help.

Thechipman


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This is a split-chassis design, electricity being fed from the axles through each side of the chassis block direct to the motor brush arms so it is not just a simple matter of connecting decoder wires. Others will elaborate on what needs to be done.

Incidentally, the wheelsets have been placed in the chassis upside down as the oil boxes on the coupling rods should be facing upwards.

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This is a split-chassis design, electricity being fed from the axles through each side of the chassis block direct to the motor brush arms so it is not just a simple matter of connecting decoder wires. Others will elaborate on what needs to be done.

 

 

Thank you for that hopefully somebody will be able to tell me. As for the wheels I will sort that immediately.

Thanks again

Thechipman

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This an old Mainline loco I suspect. Ignore me if I am telling my Granny to suck eggs. The two silver plates press against the brushes on the motor and are connected to the chassis via the holding screws. If I remember correctly the left one screws into an extender that is isolated from the half of the chassis it is screwed to by a long tube. You need to buy two screws the same thread as the ones that hold the plates on and a small nylon washer. Now take out the screws that hold the silver plates on and replace them with the nylon ones. On the right hand one place the nylon washer between chassis and plate, to stop the plate touching the chassis. Now red goes to one side of the chassis, so find something to attach it to and similarly black to the other side. In my case i drilled and tapped M2 holes, so I could use solder tags. Now attach orange and grey wires to the silver plates which are the brush holders, either by solder tags or soldering directly. If I have missed anything out, could someone fill in the missing bits. I converted mine at the beginning of lockdown, then realised the Bachmann chassis was better although harder to convert, so I converted them to Bachmann chassis.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A word of caution. These split chassis locos can be interesting to put back together, they either go back easy or put up a fight. The insulation washer between the the two halves tend to drop out whilst you are putting the securing spacer with the square end into place. The spacers tend to rot so structural integrity of the spacers can be poor when you finally fit the chassis screws, never do them up tight.

Also sometimes you need to remove metal from the chassis halves to make room for a decoder or fit it in the tender and have it permanently coupled. The metal can blunt hacksaw and dremel blades.

The driving axle nylon tends to rot and crack, and the metal axle stubs turn in the nylon outer axles. All things to watch for on these models.

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This one is the easy one, you don't have to split the chassis, you do it all with nylon screws, so no taking it apart.

Fortunately Mainline used proper threads rather than self tapping screws as per Hornby up until recently. So you can buy nylon screws with exactly the same thread. Screwing parallel thread nylon screws into holes that previously held self tappers quite often risks the screw breaking as in the case of Ringfield motors with nylon screws (I do it differently).

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