Conversion of old dc loco

[Peterdivergb]

Hello everyone.

For many years I ran Hornby “Live Steam” but eventually found the control too difficult for my advanced years so changed to DCC.

To me it answers all the problems I have encountered from the 50’s to the present day.

The pride and joy of my collection is a Hornby “City of Carlisle” that was converted to DCC for me by an absolute expert.

I remember seeing the actual loco many times as it was based in the Carlisle Upperby yard.

I have had for many years a Hornby Diesel 08 Shunter and would like to attempt to fit a decoder myself.

However when looking at the works I can only see two sliding contacts on two wheels on the same side. Also the motor itself appears to be a contact itself only one brush has a wire attached.

I hope this makes sense.

Is it possible to fit a decoder to this loco?

I have searched the forums but none of what may be useful links appear to work.

Any help would be most appreciated.

Peter

[Chrissaf]

From your description, the 08 shunter is using the chassis as the electrical current path from the wheels that do not have the wipers on them to the unwired side of the motor. Whilst the wheels with the wipers are insulated from the axle / chassis. The wipers then provide the electrical current path from the insulated wheels to the other side of the motor via the wire.

The electrical path from wheels to motor have to be broken so that the DCC decoder can be inserted in that path. Obviously, the wired side is the easy side as you can break the wire circuit. What you need to do is find a method to isolate the other side of the motor from the chassis.

No idea what type of motor your 08 has, but if it is an X03 / X04 type motor, then the chassis / motor isolation is easy to do and detailed in FAQ1 located in the 'Hornby DCC FAQ Index' sticky thread. If it is not this type of motor, then other's will have to advise if it is possible and how. The model Rxxx number or a posted photo of the motor / chassis would help members to help you.

This is a long reply. Please note that the 'blue button with white arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. To reply, scroll down to the bottom of the page and write any reply you want to make in the 'Reply Text Box' located there and click the green 'Post Reply' button.

[Going Spare]

Does your class 08 motor drive on to the front or the centre wheelset? If the former, the loco is powered by an X03 motor and the conversion to DCC is covered within the FAQ section above. If the latter, depending upon which sub-type of chassis the loco has, it may be possible to change the plastic motor carrier to one which has a DCC socket wired to it.

Checking Service Sheets 114, 139, 201, 308E and 348 may help.

As you say you have had the loco for many years, I am assuming it is not the Super-Detail model introduced in 2005.

[Peterdivergb]

Thank you both so much for your prompt replies.

Chrisaff and Going Spare, the motor drives the centre wheel set but sadly the chassis is a moulding of very heavy metal.

It is definitely not a highly detailed model, but one I am fond of being the first loco I purchased after going from a three rail system (A Christmas Present back in the day).

Thank you both once again.

[Peterdivergb]

I cannot see a way of insulting the motor from the chassis as I imagine it would still be connected by the worm gear.

[Chrissaf]

That is an X03 / X04 motor and is easy to isolate from the chassis. Re-read my original reply. And follow the navigation to FAQ number 1 as I previously advised in the third paragraph of my reply. This FAQ provides step by step guidance on how to convert that motor.

[Going Spare]

Oops, I had forgotten that even earlier version! Depending upon the body livery, it could date back to 1964, but it is still convertible as per Chrissaf's/Son of Triangman's tutorial.

The only problem, particularly with the more sensitive DCC, might be that the very coarse wheels tend to jam when running through more modern finer-scale points.

It may be advisable to remove the magnadhesion magnet from the chassis block to avoid short-circuits if the insulated wheel is pulled inwards by it and makes contact with the chassis block or any magnetised material bridges the gap..

[Rog RJ]

@ Peterdiverg

It isn't necessary to isolate the whole of the motor from the chassis. It's just the motor's electrical connections (the brush connections) that need to be isolated.

[Peterdivergb]

Wow! What an excellent group of responses.

Sadly I will be unable to act upon them for a day or two. I am in the final stages of fitting new kitchen cupboards and have been “advised” I should be concentrating upon that!

I intend to read, study and inwardly digest Chrissaf tutorial and then attack the problem.

After removing the magadhesion magnet (I thought it was just a weight) there will be plenty of space for the decoder. What would the group suggest?

Thanks again everyone. I honestly did not think I would receive such excellent support/advice

[Chrissaf]

I suggest you read the FAQ1 tutorial first before asking more questions. The tutorial covers choice of decoder considerations.

[Going Spare]

Lest there be any confusion, it is a weight at the front of the chassis, screwed to the chassis block: this can not be removed as it holds the body-fixing bracket in place - the traction magnet sits across and within the chassis block between the rear wheels underneath the motor.

[The son of Triangman]

The loco looks like it needs a good service. I would recommend having it serviced first as locos need to be good runners before being converted to DCC. Give my tutorial a thorough read once you are ready to start conversion.