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Kadee #308 Magne - Matic Uncoupler


Apples127

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I'm in the process of switching my entire fleet of Loco's and rolling stock over to Kadee couplings. A majority of my stuff is Hornby, Bachmann, Dapol & some Hattons so I'm using Kadee # 18, 19 & 20 Nem couplings on most of the stock.

My question is if anyone has feedback regarding the Kadee #308 under the track Magnet versus #321 which sits in between the rails. My concern with the #321 that sits between the rails is in some instances the Nem pockets on rolling stock sometimes droop and hence the trip pin could catch on the magnet and cause derailing and subsequent damage. I'd appreciate any insight as to the pro's & cons of the under the track #308 magnet before I start pulling up track and cork underlay to install. Also if this magnet is ok to install on mainline loops, not just in sidings.

Thanks in advance.

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I use Kadee 17,18 & 19 couplings, and sometimes a mix of the three. I do not use the Kadee magnet uncoupler, but have installed two magnets separated by a thin strip of cork, under each track in the fiddle yard - six tracks terminate at a Peco turntable. I also fitted magnets just over a tender loco's length from the buffers in the four track terminus. The magnets are about 3cm long - with hindsight a little longer would be better, as it would give a little more "wiggle" room when uncoupling - the loco usually needs a little backwards and forwards movement to complete the uncoupling. Magnets can be installed wherever you want them. I also have a Kadee height gauge as I found the pin on the coupling would sometime catch on something and stop the train dead in its tracks - I bought the Kadee pliers to get the correct curvature. I did find that the system I use did not work well on a curve - one track curves before the turntable and that is where the magnets are placed. The track is Peco Code 75. I hope that may be of some assistance.

forum_image_61e152a086c6e.thumb.png.ebde0bffcc746cfd139a4f62d2ab55b1.png

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For Kadee couplings to work they must be aligned correctly using the special alignment tool when setting up. Droopy NEM sockets should be adjusted so that they do not droop. There are various ways of doing this and many tutorials on YouTube. Once properly set up the trip pin should be ok, if not it too can be adjusted using a special pair of pliers.

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Apples 127,

You attempted multiple times to reply to BB's image post using the "blue button with white arrow" button. This button when used on an image post sends your reply attempts to a moderator approval queue.

Then you eventually gave up on BB's post and used the "blue button" on a non image post that shows above [in edited form].

The "blue button" is best avoided as it is not a "Reply to this post" button. You will get a far better forum experience posting replies if you use the preferred "Reply" method, which is to scroll down to the bottom of the page and write the reply you want to make in the "Reply Text Box" and click the green "Post Reply" button.

EDIT: Your "test reply" attempt on BB's post was also sent to the approval queue and removed there in light of this 'How To' guidance reply.

All images on this forum whether in a new post or in a quoted post are held back for approval and will not appear straight away.

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@Apples127

There is a flaw in the quote system. So even if it is used, it gives no indication who's post you are replying to. This means that the reader then has to scroll up and down the page or previous page trying to match the quote to the original. Granted, less of an issue with an image post [but not much use if the reply is then held back for image approval], but text only posts can be difficult to spot the original as you don't have a member name to use as a quick filter and then have to read each and every previous post for a match. This is just inefficient and potentially very time consuming.

If you are replying to the post directly above your reply, then it is fairly obvious who you are replying to, as in the case of @Sultan above, as both his post and your reply talk about YouTube videos.

If you want to bring your reply to the attention of a particular forum member it is just easier to start it with @username

Using the "username" who's attention you want to attract. See how I started this reply with @Apples127

So in the case of your attempts to reply to BB's image post you could have used the bottom of page reply box and typed:

@Bulliedboy

Your image post has been very useful....................etc

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After much deliberating and trying out different couplings I settled on Kadees for my layout. They will give me the convenience of remote coupling and uncoupling mimicking as far as possible authentic marshalling operations.

I tried out the between tracks Kadee delayed uncoupling magnet but like you have discovered the clearance between the magnet and curved pin on the coupling is rather too close especially for the Kadee NEM pocket couplings. I came across this video on Youtube which shows a very neat method of using small (3x10mm) cylindrical neodymium magnets.

After several rounds of prototyping on a small length of track I settled on using the 3x10mm magnets (found on Ebay at a very reasonable price - the link in the comments on the Youtube page is out of date). I made a perspex jig that enabled me to accurately and consistently drill a line of holes midway between the sleepers on Peco code 100 track. A couple of 'pins' (suitably sized nails cut to length) to slip into the first holes drilled guard against slippage of the jig. The optimum insertion depth of the magnets for my rolling stock was to push the magnets into the holes until the head of the magnets were flush with the top of the sleepers. It should just be a simple job with some suitably coloured paint and a top up of ballast to disguise the magnets. I plan to use 4 magnets per row as shown in the photograph.

forum_image_61e1db11ab326.thumb.png.71c805379f469fd1d004cf4d369b73b1.pngforum_image_61e1db1948ff5.thumb.png.b34d8a10712336f2aef30fb23ca7c2af.pngforum_image_61e1db22e2661.thumb.png.9d02e15362c1fba9d90f5c3a9b6ffb80.png

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