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Can DCC fitted engines run on Analogue.


David-1239030

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Yes you can, BUT CV29 has to be configured to support "DC Analogue Operation". But also note that operating a decoder fitted loco on DC Analogue changes the response characteristics. The output of the Analogue controller will need to be turned up higher before the loco will start to move. This is because the decoder needs to see a high enough track voltage to recieve operating power.

Most decoders leave the factory with "DC Operation" enabled, but this can not be guaranteed. For example, Hornby TTS sound decoder fitted locomotives have DC disabled. It should be noted that with TTS sound decoders, that even if DC Operation is enabled in CV29, the TTS sound functions will not work on DC.

So what can you do if the DCC fitted loco purchase has had 'DC Operation' disabled in CV29 [say for example a second hand purchase where the previous owner has disabled DC in CV29]. There is nothing you can do about it without access to a DCC controller capable of writing to CV29, other than removing the decoder and physically reverting the loco back to being a DC Analogue loco.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi,

I bought a GWR express parcels loco at a very reasonable price with dcc fitted and I have only standard DC. The loco run very very slowly with a high voltage. So, I used the dcc board and re-soldered as a straight jumper to bring the loco to dc standard. It now works as it should on dc.

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I bought a DC Fitted Britannia, 70045 Lord Rowallon maybe 10 years ago, in full knowledge that the Decoder was faulty.

It ran well for many years on DC, but about a year ago it started playing up and when messing with it managed to fry the decoder. I was planning to bypass it, but on mentioning the issue to my local model shop, they fished out a blanking plate, one that they had removed from a DCC ready engine that they had fitted a decoder to.

A simple fit, no soldering, so that is most definitely the best answer - a blanking plate. Plus, you keep the decoder and have not messed with the wiring.

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You have to be a bit careful running DCC powered locos on DC. I used a really old H & M controller and it managed to blow the decoder up. When I later analysed what went wrong I found that the old controller was feeding a rectified AC signal but with a peak of above the normal operating voltage of the circuit. Normally a DC only device would be quite happy with it. So generally if the controller is the new electronic type then no issue. The other thing as someone else has already posted is that the loco is a bit sluggish needing a much higher controller setting for it to run. The other thing is if you have an Elite and you program the address then the Elite re configures CV29 so it will only run on DCC. I assume this is what must happen, as once I change the address with my Elite the loco no longer runs on DCC.

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I had to have one of the latest HST twin packs that was only available with DCC fitted, and TTS. I asked the retailer to program it to run on DC and he refused, saying I would not find it reliable or satisfactory, BUT he would remove the DCC and TTS, refund for the removed items, and fit blanking plates,

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I'll echo ColinBs warning, I too have fried a decoder enabled to run on DC by using it with an old H&M controller. In dialogue with the decoder manufacturer they advised that only regulated DC power supplies should be used, and that the old H&M (and probably a lot of older controllers) are far from regulated and can produce massive spikes. For what it's worth, I actually connected the H&M trying to determine the running current of a different loco prior to converting it and just thought I'd see how well a DCC loco would run on DC whilst it was connected. The thing is, when I tested the DC loco, and I checked my multimeter setup several times, the controller which says it can only supply 1.25A was actually belting out much higher current and going off the 10A scale on my meter. I replaced the motor prior to converting it.

So yes you can if CV29 has been set to allow it, but make sure you have a good regulated DC power supply and not a 1980's one you dragged down from the loft.

To my mind if the decoder is fitted via a socket it is safer to open the loco up, unplug it and fit a blanking plug. If you can solder and understand circuit diagrams it is easy to make a blanking plug from a bare plug, but I suspsect most model shops who do conversions will have a drawer full of plugs they removed from DCC ready locos, so just ask.

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