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Hornby Hush Hush front bogie mounting.


ColinB

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I have both the original Hush Hush and the rebuilt one. I couldn't understand why the travel on the rebuilt one was much better, so I put them together and studied the front mounting. It looks like on the rebuilt one they have reduced the height of the mounting on the chassis, it looks like about 1 to 2 mm difference. Has anyone else done the same check. It also explains why the rebuilt one runs so much better.

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I just watched Sams video on the rebuilt Hush Hush. It was instantly apparent that it was a better runner than the previous one he had.

There does still seem to be an issue with the rear loco wheels not sitting flush to the track.

I’d like to think that Hornby took note and made adjustments.

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If Hornby ‘took notice’ of the criticism of the original W1 they would not have had time between its release and the release of the rebuilt version to have made any changes.

When the first ones were out, the second batch were probably already being shipped.

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I do wonder if they realised their mistake with the front bogie, but it was too late to change it. With the rebuilt one being a month later it gave them time to change it. There definitely is a difference on the original when the from bogie is at its limit with the spring totally compressed the front bogie wheels are level or slightly lower that the front driving wheel, on the rebuilt one it is higher than the front driving wheel, as it should be.

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I was curious enough to watch JJ's later video after having received the green one - still unrebuilt.

At one stage the 2 are together and it appears the grey cannot get moving, wheels spinning when the green one runs just fine.

Perhaps they have addressed this?

Al.

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The W1 is a very long loco and as such requires perfectly level track. If there is the slightest dip or bump then traction is compromised. Transitions from level track to gradients also have to me very gentle for the same reason.

And yes, I had to relay a small section of my layout as a result.

That was not the fault of the loco or Hornby, rather it was my cackhanded track laying.

Suggesting that it's the Hornby designer's fault is rather like a bad workman blaming his tools and too many on this forum persist in criticising Hornby (sometimes on a daily basis) for their own self created problems.

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OK SteveM6 I think you are missing the point. On every other loco I own, the front bogie at its farthest point with the spring compressed its wheels are lower than the front driving wheel, nothing to do with the length of the loco. The W1 is only slightly longer than an A4 and A4s only do this if you get the spring tension wrong. Hornby obviously realised they made a mistake as I am sure they have fixed it on the rebuilt one. I just wanted to know if anyone else has noticed a difference. Yes my one runs round my flat track, it only causes issues at slow speed on points.

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I am with Steve on this one.

I have had traction issues on several large steamers due to front or rear drivers being lifted marginally either by a front bogie or tender drawbar height problem. All very easily corrected by a bit of fettling - all in a day’s modelling and no big deal that required a panic redesign by Hornby or any other manufacturer.

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The question wasn't about how to redesign my railway, I am quite capable of doing that. The question was had anyone else noticed that Hornby had slightly reduced the mounting boss's height for the front bogies. I suppose you have to have both of them to notice. As to the fettling, have you looked at the front bogie setup on a W1, my first instinct was to bend the front bogie mounting, except on W1 it is part of the chassis, unlike an A4, Duchess and numerous other locos I could mention. I must admit on a a £240 loco I don't expect to have to do it anyway, yes on one of my locos built from spares or a second hand one from EBay which incidentally was how I noticed it was wrong, as did Sam in his video.

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Not often I disagree with 96Raf but I cannot accept that a "bit of fettling" is okay on a new model, even without considering the cost of this particular model. I don't have one but do have the double blast pipe on pre-order and I will be expecting it works correctly straight out of the packaging.

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@37lover, going by my rebuilt one I suspect they have. Seeing as nobody has given me an answer I suppose I better measure the two and see if there is a difference. Trouble is the W1 is so flimsy I don't like to touch it too often. As to the fettling, I agree I don't think I should have to, if I got it at half price then yes, but I didn't.

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Hiya

@ ColinB :- Well I have 2 Hush Hush's aswell, the R3841 'British Enterprise' in Battleship Grey, & the R3842 'Promotional' in LNER Green, I've just had a quick study of them both - 3 things different 1) obviously 2 different colours, 2) Obviously different names & 3) The R2842 in Green had red line around the Tender wheels, Running Plate & on the pistons - apart from that - they look pretty much the same to me - check out My YT Vids if you want!!!

@ Atom :- Thank you for watching my Hush Hush Vid - the 'Green one' is the R3842 (Promotional) Hush Hush & 'the Grey' is the R3841 'British Enterprise' (Every time I read / Hear the name 'Enterprise' - it make me think of the 'Star ship Enterprise' from Star Trek!!!)

Perhaps they have addressed it - who knows??? 🤔

@ Will Hay / Vespa :- I wonder how much that this 'Someone' really cares??? 🚂

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I thought "British Enterprise" was the later version, but that is exactly what I have got. I got carried away with the preorders last year so I have one, "British Enterprise" and the rebuilt ones in LNER Blue and BR Green. So it sound like they corrected it on JJ's later one and on my rebuilt ones. I am wondering if those that got sent back got a replacement chassis, once they realised their mistake. I will look at JJ's video though.

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@flyingfox4475 I have no issue with the rebuilt one, you may have perfectly level track which is why you don't see an issue with the unrebuilt one. My unrebuilt one works perfectly ok if you run it at a reasonable speed it is if you run it really slow, which as I have DCC, I can easily do. The way to check it is to push the front bogie so the spring is fully compressed and see where the back wheel of the front bogie wheel is in relation to the front driving wheel. I did it on my ones, the rebuilt ones is above the front front wheel, on the unrebuilt one it is level, so the spring if anything is lifting the front wheel off the track. Other than that fault, which is probably on all of them the unrebuilt one, runs ok.

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