Triang R 59 2-6-2 t crankpins

[GeoffBristol]

I have this engine stripped down to check and refurbish. The fitting of the connector rods to the front and rear pair seems odd ?

I have th pdf service sheet - and that shows what I have - two 'fixed' pins to the rod ends - and a hole in the wheel ?

My question is this - should there be anything in the hole - its quite a loose fit. Whatever - the pin needs to spin in th hole - as its a solid fitting to the rod end ?

The centre pin is screwed and as normal - the drawing shows no insert. x50 and x49 have both fixed pins either end - these need to spin in the wheel hole.

If it is just a sliding fit showing wear - I can maybe line the hole with some brass tube and drill to make 'better' loose fit ?

Also - is it worth attending to the back to back on these wheels - they are about 13.8 ? They do have pretty chunky flanges. Easy to do as they just pop off the rods !

Nicely made old thing - like me !

[Tony57]

Hi Geoff

The holes look like it just wear over the last 50 years.

I would not worry to much about the back to back, the size of the wheel flange make the wheels unsuitable for running on the series 6 track as they will run on the track chairs.

[DBfan]

There is nothing wrong with the wheels shown. They were only ever held by a screw in the centre wheel and would not be a tight fit as you would never be able to remove them. Just ensure that the con rods are they right way up, ie the square edge at the top, the ones in the photo are upside down.

[GeoffBristol]

Thanks - figures really - holes are less than 2mm and the pins are 1.5mm - so no room for any liner etc. I just laid the rod set down for the pic - but will check they are on there as said.

Nice engine really - rear buffer beam needs a new outer corner - but easy to do as the buffers are metal and pull out - and the front beam is identical to the rear - so a quck litte silicone cast on there and I have a new beam. Just need a new metal buffer.

[threelink]

Just one word of caution to add to the sound advice already offerred: if I recall correctly the crankpin screws on these locos go into a small brass fitting set in the back of the centre drivers. When screwing in the crankpins to the centre drivers, be sure that the small brass insert is sitting snugly in its recess. Sometimes the insert can become displaced and cause all manner of problems.

With a few drops of oil regularly applied and the occasional replacement brush set, these locos will last forever. They are great. Good luck with the buffer beam repair.

[Rana Temporia]

Typical Tri-ang loco! Wheels and coupling rods off the Jinty, original version cylinders and motion bracket off the Princess, standard X04 motor. The whole thing is infinitely easily repairable and as threelink states will last forever if maintained properly. These locos are easily available as are the spare parts to repair/rebuild them. Apart from the early cellulose acetate bodies an absolutely fantastic although dimensionally inaccurate loco. The earlier green ones had double lining, the later ones had a single line.

I knew I had several but over the weekend found another boxed version I didn’t know I had! I have no idea where it came from. Another type of loco to thin out from my collection.

[threelink]

@RT

Like you I have more than one of these locos, knocked together from bits and pieces. Much as I like them, I have always considered the cylinders and valve gear somewhat under-nourished. I recently picked up a set of old Hornby cylinders and valve gear at a train fair - much more realistic - and am working out how to graft it onto the Triang loco. A trial run shows a much enhanced appearance but there are a few technical issues to overcome yet.