Glues etc

[VESPA]

I have been very disappointed with several two pack glues recently taking far too long to dry. I also have't had much luck with superglues. Can anyone recommend a decent make of both for use with Hornby plastics etc.

[Topcat1707821625]

How fast do you want? I've never had any problem with fast-cure two-part epoxy adhesive that cure in less than 5 minutes. Any quicker and you would barely have time to mix the adhesive and hardener before it sets.

There are lots of cheap epoxies on the market but I would stick (no pun intended) to reputable makes such as the original - Araldite.

As you will probably be using small amounts for modelling I would avoid adhesives in syringes as the nozzles tend to get clogged up and the cap gets stuck. Provided you clean the necks of squeezy tubes thoroughly after use there should be no problems.

[threelink]

I think it's a question of horses for courses. There is not one single adhesive that will suit all applications. In modelling terms I have had the best resuts from Humbrol plastic solvent (for all plastic constuction including repairs to Triang Hornby and Lima loco bodies, rolling stock and buildings) UHU or Wilko own brand impact adhesive (for general work) Pound Shop PVA (for card paper and wood) and superglue gel from Wilko or hot gun glue (for pretty much everything else). I do not favour 2 part epoxies and the like - as you say, they can take a long time to dry. In many applications, superglue achieves a stronger mechanical hold if the surfaces to be joined are first scored or roughened in order to provide a key, and the same is true for impact adhesives.

[Bulleidboy]

I have always used Liquid Poly on plastics, and have also used superglue from Wilko - eight tubes for £2. Never had a problem. As Topcat mentioned many come with a fine applicator which quickly becomes blocked. I usually apply super glue with a pin, having put a blob on a small square of plasticard. DeLuxe Speedbond for card.

[VESPA]

I will try a tube of superglue of which I have around a 12 pack card. The Wilko 2 pack has been dreadful taking nearly 2 days to go off and still feels tacky when it does go off. I use Humbrol for kits and have done for 60+ years with no trouble. It also works on some Hornby plastics.

[Rana Temporia]

I came across a stall at an exhibition demonstrating Power Bond superglue and it really is the best I’ve found. The problem is eventually it glues the lid shut and it’s impossible to open.

With plastics I generally use a solvent based product such as plastic weld or polystyrene cement which cover 90% of what I need. The plastic that GBL locos are made of is very difficult to glue for some reason. I have had some success with power flex superglue but not much with solvents or standard superglues.

[Peter Stiles]

I worship at the altar of the Goddess of Glues - Araldite.

But only when the Things Are Big and Revell poly cement or UHU didn't work...

[37lover]

Vespa,

I have started using EverBuild [stick2] Industrial Grade Superglue GP 50gm bottle on plastic models and so far it has proved very effective, worth checking out I think.

[JJ73]

Vespa - try gluing last thing at night - then when you wake up in the morning - it should be nice & dry - so that your not waiting for it to dry!!! 🤔🚂