King Class piston rod linkage

[DJN]

I had to unbolt this linkage rod as it was stuck outside the piston rod support frame which itself had detached from the lower under frame lug. I am now having difficulty getting the linkage to engage with the piston rod whilst bolting it back on.

Can anyone suggest a technique for this operation and any further disassembly that may be required.

Thanks in advance for any tips.

[81F]

Sadly I think you will need to buy a new ones as yours looks broken. I would suggest using the words "Hornby King piston rod" in your searches rather than "linkage". However, the model has been in production for may years so you will need to be careful to order the correct one for your version.

Perhaps someone on the forum has a service sheet and can quote the part number.

I would also advise removing the body to geve you as much freedom of movement as the running board can get in the way.

Best of luck.

[96RAF]

Your picture cropped and rotated . . .

Have a look at service sheets 206 and 260 which clearly show the bits you need but which one as they are different.

[Going Spare]

Your loco looks to be R3534 King Edward II in GWR livery and, if so, it should be covered by service sheet no. 416. This shows the connecting rod to be supplied with the coupling rods but not connected to the crosshead/piston rod - but the sheet is insufficiently detailed to show how that connection is made. But see below (and probably disregard the next two paragraphs)........

I would check on the unaffected side to see how that link is achieved - it can't be very difficult if it is left to the customer to undertake.

If replacement part packs are required, according to the service sheet the coupling/connecting rods pack is X7013 and the pack containing the crosshead within the cylinder block/slide bars/motion bracket assembly is X7015 for a GWR-liveried loco.

HOWEVER - looking on New Modellers Shop website, the illustration of pack X7015 shows the connecting road included as part of that pack and attached to the crosshead - so, in reality, this is the pack you will need.

[ColinB]

I don't know about Kings as I have never built one from bits, but virtually all their other locos they use roughly the same valve gear per model, but obscurely change the part number. The big variation is in late tender driven and loco driven varieties as the mechanics are different. The reason I say that, is is quite often impossible to get the valve gear matching the part number. Looking at your photo the piston still looks intact, sometimes you can fix them by drilling a 1 mm hole and using something like a veropin (for veroboard) as an extra long rivet.

[81F]

There are some X7015 on ebay. If this is the part it will probably be a lot easier to replace the entire cylinder unit unless you have reasonable modelling skills and good eyesight.

[Going Spare]

But why pay ebay prices - at least £9.98 - when it is available from NMS for £8.30 including p&p?

[ColinB]

Does Lendons not have them, generally they are cheaper than the other suppliers. EBay is normally the last resort for things like this although there are a couple of Sellers that are reasonable, that I deal with. That well known spares firm is normally 20% plus more expensive.

I checked, Lendons doesn't have them New Modellers have them and they are a really good firm to deal with, reasonable Post and Packing and quick despatch.

[atom3624]

Agreed with New Modellers - used them at least 8 times ... no issues.

Al.

[DJN]

Thanks for the references and opinions re the various King Class piston rode assemblies.

I had looked at Service sheets 206B and 260D which seemed to show relevant parts packaged as spare X9110, but service sheet 416 doesn't show a "rotating cross" riveted to the end of the connecting rod.

Will proceed by body removal:, disengaging the lugs of the piston rod frame and unbolting the cylinder block. Looks like there should be a press fit between the cross thingy and the piston rod assembly.

 

[DJN]

This is the broken connection to the piston rod. The press fit of the connecting rod to the crosshead won't stay put.

 

[DJN]

I hope to install the replacement piston chest unit at the weekend, but having unbolted the old it seems reluctant to come out. Any advice on how to proceed without breaking the delicate linkages illustrated?

[atom3624]

I take it you want to remove the metal linkages from the old cylinder block, but that is no longer required?

Others will correct if not, but the cylinder blocks are normally a large main moulding, with end pieces. These linkages are pushed into one of the end pieces, so perhaps this can be removed giving better access?

Al.

[DJN]

Need to install the complete new unit (shown in foreground). Old one in chassis is unbolted from chassis but not moving vertically.

[Going Spare]

It is probably just a tight fit in the chassis block recess. If you remove the pushrods moulding from the front of the cylinders and perhaps disengage the rear ends of the crosshead guides from the motion bracket (or loosen it so it comes away easily from the chassis block to be separated from the crosshead guides after removal), a little more pressure, 'jiggling' it side-to-side and front-to-back, should free the cylinder saddle. If the red area on the chassis block to the rear of the cylinder saddle is painted, that paint may be bonding with the cylinder saddle and the two may need to be separated with a fine blade run along the join.

[DJN]

..to complete disassembly required removal of the chassis weight.

Cylinder block assembly note: do not exert any sideways leverage on the connecting rods or they will pop out of the crosshead (as caused the original issue).