A04066 Me410 Build Review

[Ratch]

Here I shall document my build of Airfix's 1/72 Messerschmitt Me410A-1

[Ratch]

I had built the Matchbox Me410-B1 many years ago. So many, I cannot recall anything about the build itself, but I was quite proud of the winter camouflage I brush painted at the time and remember the aircraft with affection. 

In my haste to push ahead with the build I washed the frames in warm, soapy water and allowed them to air dry before thinking about research. I examined the instructions. It is apparent that one needs to decide which aircraft one intends to model very early into step one. I referred to ‘WAR PRIZES The Album’ ISBN 1-85780-244-6, which listed the following:

420439 Me410A-1/U2 was captured at Kastrup and given Air Ministry number AM39. It is presumed that this airframe was scrapped at Kastrup.

130360 Me410A-1 was captured at Vaerløse and given Air Ministry number AM73, before being scrapped at Brize Norton in 1947.

420430 Me410A-1/U2 was captured at Vaerløse and given Air Ministry number AM72. This airframe is on display at RAF Cosford Museum. This is the subject of this kit, and a photograph of the aircraft appears on page 74.

It immediately struck me that this photo showed the aircraft bearing the code on the port side reads as 3U+CC whereas the decal instructions show it as CC+3U. I contacted Airfix Researcher Luke, and he quickly responded.

Our kit does not depict the one based at Cosford but it’s easy to see where the confusion arises as our B scheme (A-1/U4) wears the code 3U+CC, the version shown at Cosford is slightly different, but I wouldn’t trust their markings.

The RAF Museum say the following:

 

‘Surrendered at Vaerlose, Denmark. Unit at this time not known, although paint stripping at Cosford in the 1960s showed evidence of previous codes 3U + AK and (later) 3U + CC of 2 Staffel, I/ZG26 (Zerstorer Geschwader 26) which had served in the Balkans and Italy. Possibly also coded at one time PD+VO with 2./ZG26. One of the last fighter units to operate the Me410 was IV/ZG26, based in Norway, which was renamed II/JG5 `Eismeer' and re-equipped with the BF110 in February 1945, by which time the only front line Me410 flew as reconnaissance aircraft with Luftflotte 6; the RAFM aircraft may have served as a communications ‘hack’ in Norway with 11./ZG26 by late 1944, initially at Gerdermoen and later at Oerlandet.’

 

There was also TF209 (Me410A-3), this is the one most often photographed, and was with 1426 Enemy Aircraft Flight at Wittering, so is on my Northamptonshire Project list to build.

Just my thoughts on the pictures Luke sent - they show the starboard side, as I would expect 3U+CC. As I understand the Luftwaffe markings, 3U is the code for ZG26, the next C is the individual aircraft, the fact this is green in conjunction with the second C mark it as II Gruppenstab. I think these markings always remain in the same order (unlike RAF codes, which usually have the Squadron codes forward of the roundel and the aircraft identification aft). That, of course, may be a sweeping statement unsupported by any evidence. And so I decided to build option A, which has the codes as I would expect them to be. 

[Ratch]

The instructions would have you paint the cockpit interior 79 Matt Blue Grey. This must be Humbrol’s interpretation of RLM66 Schwartzgrau, which the Luftwaffe painted cockpits from mid-war onwards. I chose Vallejo Model Air 71055 Black Grey RLM66 for the job. I then assembled the tub and brush painted the internal detail.

[Ratch]

This kit is clearly designed for alternative variant issues as illustrated by options for locating points that require drilling at step 8. 

Assembly of the navigator/rear gunner’s position ensues. 

I can omit step 12 as I am not modelling this aircraft in flight. Anyone wishing to do so will need to source a crew. I airbrushed the remaining internal surfaces, wheel wells, and undercarriage with Vallejo Model Air 71044 Light Grey Green FS34201 RAL7002 RLM02.

[Ratch]

I did not use the decals for the instrument panels, preferring to paint by hand. Not because of any shortcomings of the transfers, but just because I felt like it. 

The fit of the cockpit is impressive, and I managed to insert the connecting piece for the remote barbettes easily. 

The lower wing slotted in beautifully and the upper wings did likewise. It pays to ensure all parts are properly cleaned up before assembly. Some gates leave excess plastic on mating surfaces, which will have a detrimental effect on the fit if not addressed. 

I chose to fit extended slats. 

Most images I found do not show this, but I felt it would add a little. Nearly every image shows the tail wing elevators level, and I chose to copy that configuration. I mistook a hinge on one tail elevator for a gate and sanded it off. I filled the space with some scrap plastic card, cut to size. 

The assembly of the cowlings was straight forward, however, my first attempt to fit the port side was awkward. Then I noticed that the upper wing had not seated out fully against the lower wing. I re-fixed it, using a clamp to close the gap and the cowling fitted perfectly. This illustrates the tight tolerances of the latest Airfix kits. Sloppy workmanship will result in poor fit. It is not the kit it is the modeller. 

I find I need to concentrate with the new tools much more than I do when building a Vintage Classic, such has mould design advanced. I am also finding that much of my carefully painted interior cannot be seen as the build develops. One might question whether it’s worth it. From a personal perspective, I enjoy the painting, honing techniques, and styles, so for me it is worth it. Your mileage may vary.

[paul71]

this is a nice looking kit one i shall be getting in the future, had been looking around at other manufactures for it but now airfix have done it saves looking any further, i always liked the aircraft but got even more of an interest in it after seeing it at cosford, enjoying watching the build and how you get on with it

[Ratch]

I hope I don't disappoint, Paul, the kit won't.

At step 31 we reach another decision point; whether to have the radiator flaps open or closed. I’m led to believe that there is there is the possibility that Messerschmitt used the same design principles from their later 109 series as on the 410 for the radiator flaps operation, with temperature sensors to determine the opening and closing. If I have this right, the flaps on a static aircraft would therefore be closed, and they would open when the heat of the engines increased. I assembled each radiator wholly, port side first, so as not to mix and confuse things.

[Ratch]

I have painted and fitted the exhausts and their associated shrouds. The barbettes and their guns, along with the tailwheel undercarriage doors were also cemented. I have assembled the long-range tanks, but they will be permanently attached when the paint, decal, varnish sequence is done. I shall also return to the undercarriage at that stage of the build.

[Ratch]

I assembled the propellers and spinners, then airbrushed them with Vallejo Model Air 71021 Black Green.

[paul71]

its looking good, you never disappoint ratch i get plenty of tips from you which do help a lot.

[Ratch]

Thanks Paul, if it helps other modellers it's worthwhile.

[Bill-373317]

Hi Ratch,

interesting aircraft Ratch, I've never heard of this one before, I'll be following this with a lot of interest.

Bill

[Ratch]

Glad to have you along, Bill.

Detail painting of the undercarriage has begun, and I hand cut the canopy masks from Tamiya tape.

[Sailorman]

That looks like a great kit ...Can't wait to see it ready!

[jopres57]

Detail painting of the undercarriage has begun, and I hand cut the canopy masks from Tamiya tape.

Cutting canopy masks is one thing I've never tried. Is it really as labour intensive as I expect or or there any handy short cuts?

 

 

[Ratch]

Detail painting of the undercarriage has begun, and I hand cut the canopy masks from Tamiya tape.

Cutting canopy masks is one thing I've never tried. Is it really as labour intensive as I expect or or there any handy short cuts?

 

 

Rub the tape down well, that way you make a good seal and can see where the frames are.

Use a sharp scalpel to get a good clean cut. An old blade will tear rather than cut and make a mess of it. If that happens, pull off the tape and start again with a new blade.

Sometimes I use a straight blade and at other times I use a curved one. It doesn't really matter (to me), use whichever you're most comfortable with.

I wouldn't call it labour intensive, but then I wouldn't say there are any short cuts - you need to remove the strips where the frames are, and there's no getting around that. The only 'tip' I can think of, is to draw the blade along the frame lines, even where they cross other frames, to keep them all lined up.

Give it a try, I'm sure you'll find it easier than you dread.

HTH

[SD45elect2000]

My kit is on its way. I didn't have to wait long.

I have two or three decal sets for these, should be fun !

Randall

[jopres57]

Detail painting of the undercarriage has begun, and I hand cut the canopy masks from Tamiya tape.

Cutting canopy masks is one thing I've never tried. Is it really as labour intensive as I expect or or there any handy short cuts?

Rub the tape down well, that way you make a good seal and can see where the frames are.

Use a sharp scalpel to get a good clean cut. An old blade will tear rather than cut and make a mess of it. If that happens, pull off the tape and start again with a new blade.

Sometimes I use a straight blade and at other times I use a curved one. It doesn't really matter (to me), use whichever you're most comfortable with.

I wouldn't call it labour intensive, but then I wouldn't say there are any short cuts - you need to remove the strips where the frames are, and there's no getting around that. The only 'tip' I can think of, is to draw the blade along the frame lines, even where they cross other frames, to keep them all lined up.

Give it a try, I'm sure you'll find it easier than you dread.

HTH

 

 

Thanks for that Ratch, does the Tamiya tape usually shape to the contours without wrinkling?

 

 

[Ratch]

If the curves are complex there will be wrinkling, but if you ensure its rubbed down it won't matter, after all, its just the edges that are most important.

[Ratch]

The canopy was airbrushed with RLM 66. I completed fitting the small parts into the cockpit.

The canopy could then be attached with G-S Hypo Cement.

One of the barbette machine guns split when I removed it from the runner and I’m continually repairing it. In hindsight, these small parts could have been left off and attached after the paint and decals had been done.

[Ratch]

I have primed and pre-shaded.

[Ratch]

I fixed the various aerials and footstep then commenced airbrushing the main colours, starting with RLM76 over the under surfaces. 

RLM75 sprayed over the lower part of the fuselage, tail, and fin, then RLM74 was open sprayed over the upper surfaces in the appropriate areas and mottled over the fin. 

This was left to fully cure to allow masking tape to be used for the hard-edged RLM70 splinter camouflage.

[Ratch]

I masked and then sprayed the RLM70 splinter camouflage. 

Then I re-touched the exhausts, spinners, and gun barrels.

[Ratch]

I airbrushed a coat of Klear as a foundation for the transfers.

The decals were applied using DecalFix and Microsol. I sourced Swastikas from Fantasy Printshop.

[Ratch]

The remainder of the waterslide transfers were put down today. 

Making the walkway lines mostly in individual strips is a two-edged sword. It offers the flexibility to manipulate the markings, but this could lead to misplacement too. Some of the stencils are so small that I find it impossible to see what they are or determine their correct presentation. You may not wish to apply them, but they are provided for those who wish to.

I fitted the long-range tanks and sprayed another coat of Klear.