Fault on TT 8009 R/H Point

[RB51]

I have to report that one set of my points has developed a fault in that it only throws completely in one direction. Even off the board it needs some serious finger pressure to work correctly so the servo stands no chance. Anyway, a quick call to Tech Services and a replacement is being sent out. Didn't want the duff one returned. Can't fault that service. R-

[BritInVanCA]

One of mine has started doing that. Will not throw in one direction. I've given up on it and replaced it with a Peco one. Much better.

[RB51]

Unfortunately I can’t do that as it’s one half of a crossover and Peco points have a different radius. R-

[Going Spare]

If the point is motorised, consider replacing the motor with a Gaugemaster Seep GMC-PM4 motor which is self-latching for use with points that do not have an over-centre spring.

[ntpntpntp]

There's a thread somewhere on here about some issues with the over-centre spring being biased to one side. I had this with one of my points, I improved it by relocating the spring to another hole to even up the pressure.

By the way, usually people remove the over-centre spring if they're using slow-action point motors or servos.

Could it be the blade is catching on one of the little contact wipers about 1/2" along from the tiebar?

[Rallymatt]

The Peco points have had their own problems. I have had a total of 3 fall apart. At first I thought it could have been me catching the pips on the tie bar when track cleaning, that will do it, but the design/manufacture is the weak spot. The tie bar is made of a very soft plastic with 2 slots to receive a thin section of the point blade, and then folded over to secure. The folded section isn’t long enough, only a tiny edge folds to secure it. The plastic tie bar can flex and pop the point blade out. I managed to re attach 1 in situ but it went again a few weeks later. It’s very easy for the tie bar to tear at the slot too. Peco/Hattons have been excellent with replacements just like Hornby are, but it is a pain. I would strongly recommend removing the plastic pips on the tie bar if you use motors/servos or take super special care cleaning points.

I don’t have N gauge track to check, but I wondered if it’s because the sleepers are slightly taller (and tie bar) in TT:120, both use the same code 80 rail (called code 55) and the folded section on the blade is compromised in TT where it isn’t in N.

[ntpntpntp]

@Rallymatt the blades on the Peco TT:120 point are identical to those on the N gauge code 55 large radius point, and are secured in the same way. The tie-bars are the same thickness where the blades are secured. There isn't a lot of "meat" on the folded tab so maybe a slight mis-assembly could allow the blades to come loose too easily. This can also be caused by throwing the point by pushing the blades instead of the tie-bar pip (I've seen that happen to someone else), that's why I'd always recommend using wire-in-tube and a remote lever if not going to motorise the point.

To be honest a tiny dot of superglue or epoxy on the tabs might help as there's no real need for any play/swivel in the joint, but of course you'd have to remember to apply that before laying the point.

[RB51]

Could it be the blade is catching on one of the little contact wipers about 1/2" along from the tiebar?

I did have a look at that but neither of them seem deformed. There is a definite graunching followed by a hard stop. Track is not ballasted in this area I should add. R-

 

 

[Rallymatt]

@Nick, I knew you would respond with having N gauge. The superglue tip is an excellent idea, if it’s remembered! I guess it’s had issues in N too?

I cringe when I see people changing points via the blades rather than the tiebar. 😳

[BritInVanCA]

The Peco points have had their own problems. I have had a total of 3 fall apart. At first I thought it could have been me catching the pips on the tie bar when track cleaning, that will do it, but the design/manufacture is the weak spot. The tie bar is made of a very soft plastic with 2 slots to receive a thin section of the point blade, and then folded over to secure. The folded section isn’t long enough, only a tiny edge folds to secure it. The plastic tie bar can flex and pop the point blade out. I managed to re attach 1 in situ but it went again a few weeks later. It’s very easy for the tie bar to tear at the slot too. Peco/Hattons have been excellent with replacements just like Hornby are, but it is a pain. I would strongly recommend removing the plastic pips on the tie bar if you use motors/servos or take super special care cleaning points.

I don’t have N gauge track to check, but I wondered if it’s because the sleepers are slightly taller (and tie bar) in TT:120, both use the same code 80 rail (called code 55) and the folded section on the blade is compromised in TT where it isn’t in N.

 

 

anecdotally evidence is always interesting. Here’s mine. I have 7 points. Originally 4 Hornby and 3 Peco. 2 Hornby failures and 0 Peco failures. I haven’t even ballasted yet. Seems like there are problems on both sides.

[Rallymatt]

27 Peco points on layout, 1 Hornby point with original set. 3 Peco failures, 0 Hornby failures but the only the Peco track gets regular use.