Jump to content
You heard it here first: Up to 40% off TT:120 NOW ON ×

Western master setup in Railmaster

Lon2020

By Lon2020
in Hornby RailMaster & TrackMaster

 Share

Recommended Posts

ModelerXYZ Experienced

ModelerXYZ

Posted
Posted

Unfortunately, I don't have an Elink, if/When I use railmaster I use it through my Elite. I cannot give any tips to help get it working. try touching the wheels with a 9v battery. If they move all good. If they don't, the loco is the problem.

XYZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tolak Apprentice

Tolak

Posted
Posted

If the loco is DCC, then the battery trick is unlikely to work. (Enabling "Run on DC" is possible, but not in the default settings). It may be worth checking with the battery, to confirm that the loco does contain a decoder.

If the loco is not DCC (ie it is DC), then the conversation about the eLink and Elite are misleading. (This set is DCC, so this comment is just for completeness)

The usual diagnostic is to use a second loco to decide if the power source or the loco is at fault; this is still viable here.


The key difference with DCC is that you have to be able to address the decoder; if you don't have the address (which should be address 3, from the factory) then you will struggle to get the loco to respond.


If you have a friend who has a working DCC setup, confirm if the loco is working and on Address 3. A local train shop should be happy to assist, too.


Was the set new from a shop, or has anyone had a chance to play with it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
P-Henny Mentor

P-Henny

Posted
Posted
(Enabling "Run on DC" is possible, but not in the default settings).

 

 

It is true that Hornby TTS & TXS decoders are not factory enabled for DC Running, but the Western Master set is not sound and is most likely to have a R8249 DCC Decoder. This decoder originally was factory enabled for DC Running in CV29.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
P-Henny Mentor

P-Henny

Posted
Posted

Given the age of this set, one has to ask the question was it purchased 'pre-owned'. If it was, then the validity of the Railmaster software key comes into question.

@Lon2020, as previously requested by 96RAF, you really need to provide a copious amount of information regarding the actions and tasks you have performed so far. Particulary with installing the RM software and eLink driver (was it pre-owned?).

For example, is the Controller icon in the top right hand corner of the Railmaster screen green in colour or greyed out. If it is not green and grey, then you will never be able to control any locos.

Once forum knows where to target the advice, then appropriate guidance can be given to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
P-Henny Mentor

P-Henny

Posted
Posted

Update.

Looking at your posting history. You raised two threads in December 2015 relating to Railmaster software and also the Western Master Digital Set, where you stated you got it working. This seems to be contradictory and at odds to your current (this) thread.

As stated before, more historical background information is needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Fishmanoz Grand Master

Fishmanoz

Posted
Posted

Graham, I’m going to make some assumptions here then tell you the major steps to set up your set. And where you say you’ve tried everything, I’m confident you haven’t and we can help you. It’s going to be a little more complicated than your last set up 8 years ago with Windows 7.

I’m assuming you have all of your original set including the RM CD in its case and, inside the case is your serial number. You’ve probably already installed RM on your old PC, haven’t uninstalled it and can’t access that PC. And you may have tried to install RM on your current PC, from the CD?

No matter any of the above, I’m going to tell you the main steps and have you report back to us where you are with them so we can help you with each.

so here goes, noting you absolutely must complete each step before going to the next, no short cuts:

  • First step (do not have RM running for this step) - power up the eLink, connect it to your PC/laptop in a USB port and using Device Manager, check that the Windows driver for it is installed and on which Comm port. Have you done this? If not, come back before anything else.
  • Second step - download the latest version of RM from the link at the top of the forum and install as administrator with the eLink running (important). This can be complicated these days. Come back if you are having trouble. No matter if you’ve tried to install from the CD (it will work better if you haven’t), the latest will install over this old version.
  • Third step - start RM and enter the licence key from you CD case. If it says already registered, come back and we’ll tell you how to fix this.
  • Fourth step - check the RM Setup screen to ensure you have the eLink shown with correct Comm port and baud rate. The manual which has been downloaded to your desktop has the correct details.

All 4 steps completed? You are now ready to install your loco in the RM roster and run it. Manual tells you how. You may need to reset the decoder in your loco if you don’t remember what address you have set it to (default 03 or did you change it 8 years ago?).

But I repeat, no shortcuts unfortunately. Come back to us at each step on where you are at and any problems found.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
96RAF Grand Master

96RAF

Posted
Posted

The eLink sends DCC potential to the track not dc so for comparison you have to measure on the AC volts scale. Accuracy will depend upon your meter but will be around 15 volts.

We still await answers to most of the questions put to you.

  1. Did the set come with an unused RM code.
  2. Did you connect the eLink to your pc/laptop and allow windows to load the correct driver before installing RM.
  3. Have you checked that the comm port in device manger matches that RM is using.
  4. Have you configured your .ini file per the FAQs advice.
  5. etc, etc.


Edir - Fishy was typing faster than me .

Link to comment
Share on other sites
P-Henny Mentor

P-Henny

Posted
Posted

Your image showing 'Controller A' as being inactive HAS TO BE FIXED before you can run any locos. Much of the guidance given so far is correct and useful, but to get your Controller Icon to change from 'inactive' to 'active', the best advice is to follow (exactly) the guidance given in FAQ 1 located in the 'Railmaster FAQ Index' pinned sticky thread at the top of the Railmaster forum.

Once you have a green active icon, then follow the guidance in FAQ 2 to add a loco to your throttle roster.

This can be done with RM in evaluation mode, so it is not critical to activate your key just yet. In other words, learn to walk before you try to run. Once you get a basic configuration to work a loco in evaluation mode, then you (with forum help) can focus on the next steps to get a fully working & setup RM control system.

Have a read through ALL the FAQs in the pinned sticky. They are there to assist with many aspects of setting up Railmaster and provide significant additional information & idiots guide guidance to supplement the official RM manual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Fishmanoz Grand Master

Fishmanoz

Posted
Posted

Graham, when I wrote my post, your images were yet to be approved and displayed. So you may be further down the setup path than I assumed. Then again, you may not be.

Therefore I ask again that you confirm to us whether you have completed or not any or all of the steps I have given you, starting at 1 and working through. Only then will we know the relevance of your answers to questions RAF and Paul have asked you subsequently.

If I can briefly explain why:

  • Step 1 - unless you have eLink installed with the correct driver, you will get nowhere. The correct driver is different to the one you were using under Windows 7 (unless you are using an 8 yr old PC with Windows 7 - most unlikely?)
  • Step 2 - you will also need to be using the latest version of RM from the link, not your CD version. And have it registered.

The questions and advice RAF and Paul are giving you relate to specifics in various of my 4 steps. They will only make sense if the steps have been completed up to that point.

Until you tell us which of the steps you have completed and then which you are subsequently having problems with, we will largely be in the dark on assistance, even seeing you RM screen in your photo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Fishmanoz Grand Master

Fishmanoz

Posted
Posted

Okay Graham, so you are downloading the RM setup file but you’ve yet to confirm that you have the correct driver installed or what Comm port number it’s on?

And to avoid the download problems on W 10 or 11, I suggest you do the download on your old laptop then transfer it.

If you do it on the new one, this thread will help: https://uk.hornby.com/community/forum/problem-down-loading-railmaster-345519?ccm_paging_p=4#end-of-replies

Link to comment
Share on other sites
P-Henny Mentor

P-Henny

Posted
Posted

In addition to Fishman's and 96RAFs suggestions. I suggest that you use MS Edge to download the RM installer file, but only after making the configuration changes detailed in the following website. This assumes that you are not using 'third party' AV Security software that disables Windows Defender.

How to over-ride 'MS Edge' file download blocking is described here:

How to tell Microsoft Edge to let you download a file it's blocking - CNET

I would then follow the instructions for "Windows Defender Setting" at the bottom of the article on the linked page to invoke the 'allow manual over-ride' options to be visible on screen for the future.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...