John208 Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 Hi. I had everything up and running, decoder fitted, sounds etc, but inexplicably all sound has disappeared. I have reset the loco, updated firmware, reloaded the sound profile, all to no effect. Looking for help and guidance as to what I should do. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 Assuming you have sound selected on using F1 or F28.Check the obvious - duff speaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John208 Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 Hi. I am using the App on an iPad to control the loco, but I do have the sound turned on. It's a new loco from the Easterner set bought at Christmas (despite me being 71!!). It has just stopped producing sound. I've now deleted the encoder and reset the installation from scratch, but I fear it is, as you suggest, a failed speaker. Interestingly, this loss of sound sounds also seems to have co-incided in a loss of "power", with the loco being very slow to start. I suspect a chat with Hornby will be required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 Welcome to the forum John, it’s never too old to play trains! As the set is new I wouldn’t go digging too far yourself, but just check the small white plug between the tender and the main chassis is seated all the way, and the pins inside the plug. Something you could do if you are confident, is remove the tender body (directions are in the maintenance sheet with the set) it’s 4 small screws. Then check the decoder is seated into the socket, you could remove it and re insert, it should click as it goes in. More than that so early on in service would probably be better leaving to Hornby. If you do decide to remove the tender body once screws are removed, you lift the body only slightly towards the loco and wiggle gently side to side and pull. The diagram shows a more extreme movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John208 Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 Thanks for that helpful response. I’ll check as you suggested. I fitted the decoder myself so I’m OK removing the tender body, although it’s certainly fiddly. I’ve also emailed customer support so we’ll see how they respond. Many thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 Did your WW come with a pre fitted speaker? Latest ones in sets seem to be even on non digital. Something to be aware of is the speaker plug has become detached on a couple of cases, as you will know it’s quite a snug fit for the tender body and a trapped wire is all too easy (it’s long!)You do get a faster response from CS by phone, emails can take a bit longer so depends how anxious you are to get things sorted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John208 Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 Hi again. Yes the WW came with, surprisingly, a pre fitted speaker. It seems to be fully wired in. All sorts of issues now arising with loss of Bluetooth connection, where I’m not sure if it’s Bluetooth issue or a track power issue. I assume that no power to the track means no power to the loco and therefore no Bluetooth. All was well this morning, and then ……! Frustrating! Thanks for continued interest and help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 Yes John, power is everything! Just make sure all fishplates are tight and the pins are into the power track correctly. The contacts inside can be dislodged if the buttons are not pushed in before pushing the power pack pins in. Easy to fix if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John208 Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 Hi again. I’m sure now that the Bluetooth issue is power related, with turnout clips seeming to be the likely culprits. Several are weak and loose after just a few days. I’m not convinced by them, but assume alternative power arrangements more complex and expensive. None of this sorts the sound though, so it’s a call to Hornby tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John208 Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 I wondered about that power track, and indeed what the button was for!! Also the plus/minus markings on the plug. You say easy to fix if contacts inside dislodged?? Prise the bottom off?? Thanks for your patience with an “old timer” but new modeller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 The cover comes off easily, there are a couple of angle’s strips, I think there was a diagram kicking about showing how they should look to reassemble. The sets normally come with a warning on the power supply/controller saying to fully depress button before inserting plug although from memory it’s not as clear as it should be, something was maybe lost in translation 🤣Everyone is a new modeller at some point 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daedalus Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 You can get multimeters for under £10 that will measure anything you need to know on a model railway regarding voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John208 Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 Thanks again Rallymatt. I managed to fix the power track connector. I should have realised what that button was, but I thought it was some sort of 'reset'. My real trouble, as I suggested earlier, seems to lie with Turnout clips, which I have had to replace on a regular basis to maintain power and hence Bluetooth to the Loco. They seem to lose their "spring" and therefore come loose causing power interruptions. Is there a practical (and affordable) alternative to the clips. I worry that once I ballast the track, getting at dodgy clips is going to be a real issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LTSR_NSE Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 The bulletproof alternative to the point/turnout clips is to solder wires to the underside of the rails (soldering wires to each individual track piece is the ‘perfect world’ as it removes the need for fishplates to conduct electricity) - however simply soldering wires to the sections immediately before & after points/turnouts would be enough to replicate/replace the clips’ functionality.If soldering is impractical/inappropriate/unavailable - another alternative would be to use pairs of TT8027 power connectors before & after points/turnouts with wires linking the connector pairs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John208 Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 Hi. Thanks for that advice. I'll take a look at what seems easiest for me to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Some good online tips for soldering especially to track, and on the general discussion section in the stickies under getting started etc. Good skill to develop if you haven’t already as it’s so useful in the hobby. Good equipment and practice. The turn out clips are very much a ‘get you started’ thing and long term soldered ‘dropper wires’ will make your layout more reliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moawkwrd Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Are you putting the clips in the right place on the point? Or removing them and refitting them repeatedly or something? I put the clips in when I first built my layout and they haven’t budged in several months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John208 Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 Hi Mo. Thanks for the comment. The answer is I think I’m putting them in the right place! They just seem to lose tension, move about which obviously then affects the supply. I’m not moving them once they’re in. Views on the clips seem mixed; some, like you are very happy with them, others aren’t. It could easily be me, so I’ll buy some more and try again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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