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DCC Power


Bluehornby14

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You should consider purchasing the dedicated DCC transformer C7025 4Amp Digital. Tjhis will ensure that you have sufficient power available when you expand your layout and you need this if you upgrade to an Elite controller. You can then use the Select

as a slave controller connected to the Elite.
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Hi
1) Clean all rail tops - use a tack rubber or the rough side of a small piece of Hardboard (Masonite). I also use a lint free cloth with (IPA) Isopropanol Alcohol applied as a 'maintenance clean' every week or so. I also use a track rail cleaning

truck which is filled with IPA and pushed around by a large loco.

2) Ensure all metal rail joiners (fishplates) are tight onto each end of the rails they connect together, if you rely on this means of transferring power rail to rail. `if necessary use

a pair of pliers to carefully 'crimp' the joiners bottom edge to the rails foot area. A DCC power Bus of two reasonably sized wires with smaller dropper wires to the rails above is far better for power/data transfer, especially if your layout is a permanently

fixed down one.

3) Clean the wheel treads of all wheels especially those that collect power. I use a fibre pencil for this, but you can use a powered PL40 wheel cleaning set.

4) Ensure any wheel wiping contacts that rub on the rear inside of

the wheels are actually touching the wheels inner face all the time, even when the wheel is moved across the loco.

5) Ensure the inner faces of the wheel wiping contacts and the inner faces of the wheels where the wipers touch are clean too. Again

I find the fibre pencil is idea for this.

Remember with DCC, cleanliness is next to perfect running. :-)
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Hi
Most, if not all, dc locos can be converted to DCC.
Some are just a matter of removing a 'dc operation blanking plug and then plugging in a decoder (DCC Ready loco), while others have to be 'Hard wired' by soldering the decoder wires to the motor

connections and the wires from the wheel pickups. With this later style of loco you MUST always test the motor before attempting to connect and power up the loco on DCC. You need to ensure both of the motor connections are not in anyway in contact with the

wheels or the locos metal chassis. Use a multimeter set on its OHMs range or a simple battery powered buzzer fitted with a pair of test leads. No reading or buzz should be observed. If there is a reading/buzz then the cause MUST BE ELIMINATED before proceeding.

Failure to carry out this testing and remove any connection motor to wheels or chassis will normally result in total decoder failure! Normally noted by a puff of smoke seen rising from the decoder!!!

As for rail cleaning, read my reply above - Paragraph

1.
On modern Nickel Silver rail never use anything abrasive like sand / glass paper, emery cloth etc.
Only on very old steel rail, which is rusted can a very fine grade of Emery cloth be used to remove any surface rusting.
The determine if your rails

are steel or nickel silver use a magnet. NS rail won't be attracted to the magnet where steel rail will.
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