Fishmanoz Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 Except make sure there is nothing connected when first placing it on the track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystyqye Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Am a newbie to all this and being disabled... This setup looks like a good and fairly reasonable choice With the zephyr and eLink Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystyqye Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Sorry guys, I missed replying to your kind comments.Prior to tyring out Railmasater I rean totally Digitrax. Controller was the Zephyr and all DS54 Digitrax point decoders with PECO motors. After adding a 4amp pack the ;flashing went away and I have, through trial and error, managed to get Railmaster running. That is, running a couple of trains. I am slowly adding locos. I also have built my track plan. I am now trying to add point lights and then I shall try and program the d point ecoders. Big Job , but I think well worth it. Its rather nice to stand in front of a screen with your panel on it and run the layout. Unfortunately, as I said in my last post, NO POWER TO TRACK eminating from E-link. UGH!!Did you ever get this to work? This is what I'm looking at setting up if other option doesn't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelrow Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Mysty, elink will be ample, for all you need. See my reply on your other post. You cannot mix and match controllers. What i do, when kids come, is to detach elink, and attach Select controller, whereby, they can run 2 locos, but the 2 cannot be run together. Its one or the other. john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystyqye Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Mysty, elink will be ample, for all you need. See my reply on your other post. You cannot mix and match controllers. What i do, when kids come, is to detach elink, and attach Select controller, whereby, they can run 2 locos, but the 2 cannot be run together. Its one or the other. johnHi John,thanks... Is it hard to attach as this will be in a coffee table, but will have a drawer to access the controls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyO Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Hi John from me alsoBrilliant forum full of interesting stuff! I'm not new to DCC but am to Hornby RailMaster. I was hoping to use my existing controller (ZTC511) to drive the trains and my new RM/eLink to change the points (Peco with ZTC302 and DCC Concepts digital point motors) but you say cannot mix/match controllers. What if they used the same ZTC 5amp power supply? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Tony, welcome to the forums. rather than can't mix and match, it would be better to say you can have only one DCC controller on any one DCC circuit. Therefore, you can do what you were thinking as long as you run separate circuits for your track and your accessories with no connection between them. And Tony, far better to stsrt a new thread rather than put your question on the bottom of this unrelated one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Tony, welcome to the forums. rather than can't mix and match, it would be better to say you can have only one DCC controller on any one DCC circuit. Therefore, you can do what you were thinking as long as you run separate circuits for your track and your accessories with no connection between them. And Tony, far better to stsrt a new thread rather than put your question on the bottom of this unrelated one.Just to add if you look in RM setup you will see Controller A and B tabs - as Fishy says use one for locos and one for points, they just have to be on separate bus connections - i.e. points are not run from the track but direct from Controller B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyO Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Tony, welcome to the forums. rather than can't mix and match, it would be better to say you can have only one DCC controller on any one DCC circuit. Therefore, you can do what you were thinking as long as you run separate circuits for your track and your accessories with no connection between them. And Tony, far better to stsrt a new thread rather than put your question on the bottom of this unrelated one.Just to add if you look in RM setup you will see Controller A and B tabs - as Fishy says use one for locos and one for points, they just have to be on separate bus connections - i.e. points are not run from the track but direct from Controller BThank you very much for your assistance. We do already have separate bus connections for track and points and I will take your suggestions in hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 You can't have your ZTC as one of your controllers in RM setup though, only Elite or elink. You would have to run it quite separately and you wouldn't be able to use the RM loco programming features. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveClass47 Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Hi all,I have the latest version of Railmaster. Its linked to my 4 amp supply (I got with the Hornby Elite unit) and the elink.However, when a train causes a short circuit, ie goes over the points when they are set the wrong way etc I have difficulty in getting things up and running quickly.For example, with my Hornby elite unit when there is a short circuit and 'ERROR' appears on the controllers sceen. I then simply recifity what was causing the short and press 'ESCAPE' button on the elite and everyting is good to go again. Its a quick press of a button. BUT....with Railmaster I have no such ESCAPE/reset button, so I have to click on the tiny red rectangle (down the bottom right of the screen and reset the controller/elink. This sometimes works first time, but often does not. Am I missing something?, is there a quicker way to do this?? HELP?! ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 You have your answer in your separate thread Dave, so we can put this 18 month old thread back to bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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