MetmanUK Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 MatthewCarty said: Hi all, I have only just got a Cobalt digital and run Elink and Railmaster. Although some people seem to have managed to get it to work with the elite has anyone got it working with Elink? If so, how did you do it? Thanks for any help Hello Matthew, If you follow my instructions in the RM section ( https://www.hornby.com/forums/hornby-forums/hornby-railmaster/5708/?page=5&added=false ) it should be the same or very similar for Cobalt Digital. I may be able to confirm this soon as I have ordered some ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fazy Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 hi all don't have much to do on the DCC forum normally but I have just brought my self a all singing smart phone. in the dark recesses of my memory I recall that the rumour that the Elink/railmaster was going to be able to work of smart phones this was before it come out. I was just wondering if this is true or not. have just looked at the Elink/railmaster it mentions PC and Laptops but not smart phones the phone is running android if that makes a defence. I already use DCC so it just more a thought for a back up system for if my current system dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fazy Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Tar yes I have just also found the forum on this subject!!!!!! I don't want to know how long that's been there but second subject on first Page all I need to know. That will teach me to look first. Thank you anyway Kiwi3685. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewCarty Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Have sent an email to dcc concepts today, hopefully they will get back to me soon and I will be able to start installing some more. If anyone makes any further progress with just an Elink controller it would be very useful to hear any suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 MatthewCarty said: Hi all, I have only just got a Cobalt digital and run Elink and Railmaster. Although some people seem to have managed to get it to work with the elite has anyone got it working with Elink? If so, how did you do it? Thanks for any help Dead simple Matt. Just switch the Cobalt to Program mode, change the point on your RM layout that you want the Cobalt to control by clicking on it, switch back to Run mode and it's done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewCarty Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 I have tried this many times yet in never works, maybe I have a dud... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Definitely see what Richard has to say then. He has a no questions asked replacement policy. Even replaced a loco decoder I blew up because it locked up due to poor wheel quartering and clearly my fault I thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewCarty Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I emailed him about a week ago but haven't got a reply yet. If I don't get one I will probably just send it back. How long does he normally take to get back to people? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Usually quicker then that but a one man show and into heaps so may have been busy, or on holidays. Suggest a reminder might be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterBal Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 I note that there has not been any recent correspondence on this thread regarding Elink and cobalt DCC fitted point motors. I also note that the railmaster software (my version shows as 1.55) now lists "Cobalt Point Motor (with decoder) as an option. Can I take it that previous problems as per this thread are now resolved and that provided you set them up individually Cobalt Point Motors are not a problem? Am hoping so as I have 6 on order (having rejected seeps as not much cheaper when all is taken into account - including the soldering effort required and potentially problematical because of power consumption). I am hoping I will simply be able to fit the cobalts individually straight from the box - no resisters etc - connect them to the dcc bus plus the frog link (I am using Code 75 electrofrog) and then program - can it be this easy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Yes it should be. Install, put in learn mode, throw the point you want it to be, return to run mode and it should be programmed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterBal Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Fishmanoz said: Yes it should be. Install, put in learn mode, throw the point you want it to be, return to run mode and it should be programmed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterBal Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Thanks for the reply. I look forward to fitting the cobalts when they arrive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterBal Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Sadly I am finding it far from easy to get the Elink and the cobalt (decoder fitted) point motors to work together. I have 6 cobalt decoder fitted point motors. I have managed to get 2 of the 6 working OK - they form a crossover but presently operate independently. The other 4 don't perform to the Railmaster panel but do work OK using local switches. I have tried all combinations of polarity or dcc wire positioning possible but cannot get a third point motor to perform from the railmaster panel. I have however managed to add a traintronics tt300 to my functioning two cobalts without any great difficulty- there must be a pointer somewhere! I have also had a problem with one cobalt which is not easily rotated through 180 degrees persistently resetting itself when approached by a loco. I have E mailed Gaugemaster as follows "Enquiry : I have recently purchased 6 cobalt point motors with the built in decoder. I am using Hornby a Hornby E link and railmaster. After a considerable struggle I have managed to get two working correctly - they form a crossover but are working independently. The other 4 operate on switches using directly connected switches but not from the railmaster PC screen. One also auto changes to the wrong setting when a loco approaches. I understand that the normal remedy in the latter situation is to turn the motor through 180 degrees but this is not .entirely practical through location. I have obviously tried reversing dcc supply leads and setting reverse polarity (both separetly and together) without success. Is there any other way please? Further is there any specific guidance re E link and Cobalt available please? " This has bought the following response "Hi Peter Assuming this is digitally operated I believe you need to press the opposite direction button when programming the address. Please note that we have had a few people having problems with the E Link and accessory decoders in general. Greg Spears Technical Department" So there we have it - there are continuing problems with cobalt (decoder fitted) motors and the Elink.. In the meantime which to junk - the cobalts or the Elink. - either involves an expense I would rather avoid. If only I had gone Traintronics TT300's! Others may wish to note. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Hi Peter, interesting feedback on the TT300, first I've seen and confirms the press about it. However, I'd note that this decoder is programmed in a completely different fashion to Cobalt, being done on the programming track, not on the main, and by programming in an address directly, not putting in learn mode and throwing the point you want it to operate, as for Cobalt. Also not sure of the relevance of advice from Gaugemaster given none of their hardware is being used. I would start to get better advice by emailing RM Support from in the Help window of RM as they have now solved the programming of Cobalt and added a Cobalt option for decoder setup, not that it is really needed given the programming method. And RM will be unlikely to be able to solve you strange Cobalt 180 degrees problem. However, the person who will have an answer will be Richard at DCC Concepts. Email him from the link in the DCC Concepts web site. He is highly competent and, while he can sometimes be a little slow to reply, he will have an answer for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetmanUK Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 I can tell you that Hornby will be fairly non-committal and point you towards the supplier. Richard at DCC Concepts will be critical of e-Link but can't explain the contradiction of the same decoder working in ADS-8 mode but not in a Cobalt Digital. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetmanUK Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I have found the response from Hornby RM Support. Hopefully it will help others as Hornby appear to have had a similar experience. "We do not support other manufacturers hardware. You should consult the instructions of the device and the manufacturer. All we can add is that we purchased several of these point motors in order to test them with RailMaster (and they work) however a significant percentage of them failed and it seems other users are having similar problems. We are not sure why this should be. We understand that a resistor should be placed between the point motor and the DCC controller although you will need to search for this as we cannot tell you the value. " I don't recall seeing the last bit of advice anywhere - at least, not when using them in their basic setup from e-Link. I have now received a second box of 12 from Liverpool (only 4 worked sometimes from the last box) so will be testing later. I'm not holding my breath! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 This not the first time a series resistor has been mentioned for these decoders on the forum. Would be best to go back to Richard to clarify. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HooliganHedgehog Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Yes, I was advised by Cobalt to fit a 200 ohm resistor in one of the power feed wires. This was in order to stop a loud clunking noise I was getting at the end of the throw. The resistor reduces the torque of the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetmanUK Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 HooliganHedgehog said: Yes, I was advised by Cobalt to fit a 200 ohm resistor in one of the power feed wires. This was in order to stop a loud clunking noise I was getting at the end of the throw. The resistor reduces the torque of the motor. HH, Was this for the standard Cobalt or the Cobalt Digital? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Thanks HH, remember now the previous discussion centred around 1 each or just 1 resistor last time. Would be worth seeing if more will program with the resistor fitted. If not, it is sounding more like faulty decoders in the current batch so return to supplier for replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetmanUK Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I'd prefer a loud clunk over total silence! I got the first new CBD out of the box and it worked first time (31). I set up 3 more (32-34) and got them working in turn. Now 32 and 34 work, silence from the other two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HooliganHedgehog Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Certainly seems odd that some work, others don't. The only similar problem I've encountered, which may or may not be the case here, on the odd occasion the gears would stick rendering them apparently lifeless. A sharp tap releases them and they work fine once more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Well remembered HH, had forgotten that problem, and a reason for the difference with the same decoder in the ADS8. Not really acceptable though if you have to keep jolting them so they work, and how to do it when mounted under the board to a point. Maybe the resistor will help as they won't be driven so hard against their end stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetmanUK Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Progress at last! The Cobalt Digitals box contains a slip which contains the following "If you have a European made DCC system or work in larger scales which use higher voltages, please add a 1/4 watt, 400 ohm resistor in series with one wire to your Cobalt Digital to stabilise power at the right level for perfect operation. Doing this will ensure best performance and reliable operation." I had previously asked Richard at DCC Concepts if the Digitals worked with the Hornby e-Link and Hornby Booster units or would they require another power supply. He said they "can be powered directly from the power bus". Also, in my email exchanges with Richard he also supplied detailed instructions for getting the Digitals working. He did not mention a resistor. I therefore concluded that Hornby did not come under the "European" heading. I had reached the stage where 5 motors operated, 5 did not and 2 others that had worked no longer did so. I had restarted my research into alternative motors and for some reason re-read this thread. I was struck by how definite HH was about inserting a 200 ohm resistor into the power/DCC supply cable. I decided to purchase some from my local Maplins and give it a (final) go. To my surprise the 7 non-operating Digitals worked. One which started, then stopped was brought back to life by the 'tap' method having slightly loosened the screws first. I will now go for a lie down, afterwhich I will double and triple check everything and post my conclusions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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