Jump to content

Setting up a new installation


Recommended Posts

Sorted! 

The instructions for both the controller and for the elink say that settibg up points is 'automatic' It isnt!

You set the points details manually in the accessory program, then they work!

Hopefully will have no problems with the elink and I can get on with building the layout!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just as a matter of interest for other new eLink users tony, if you start with a layout that works with Select including your points, getting going with RM should only be a matter of putting the correct addresses into RM, both locos and accessories. Clearly you had no trouble entering your loco list and putting in the correct addresses, otherwise they wouldn't have worked.  Then for your points, it should have just been a matter of designing your schematic layout including your points and point buttons, then right clicking on the point buttons to program your point numbers to match the ports you had already programmed in your accessory decoders. 

Was it that last step you missed initially?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all, first post.

I'm just starting back into model railways and decided to go straight away with DCC. Two reasons, I'm an ex computer engineer and love fiddling with anything that needs programming, and secondly I've just turned 70 and can't be bothered with all the additional wiring and build time associated with DC. So I've ordered a Hornby Western Master set to get me started (I haven't got it yet). It comes with the e-link controller and RM software. In the mean time I've been reading through the RM manual and not read anything to faze me (yet!).

But I do have a question to which you guys may help me with before I get down to business. I want to build a multi layer layout with one level fully controlled by the computer eg trains running back and forth in sequence with no manual input. The other level will be for me to "play" with, shunting etc. I want the two layouts to be connected to e-link and RM but they will NOT be physically connected track-wise. So the question is can I just connect the two "layouts" electrically, in parallel from the controller and how can I represent this on the RM software. Many thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome on board Teedoubleudee.

The site http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC.html contains good information about DCC. Depending on how large the layout(s) is your planning, the amount of wiring does seem to creep up on you in the end, reference DCC bus and dropper links, :-)

Yes, you effectively connect both of your layouts to the same Track output on the eLink controller. It does not matter to eLink / Railmaster that you actually have two separate layouts BUT on Railmaster's layout screen (showing a schematic of your track) you would need to show both on the same screen. You can reduce the zoom of the screen if they become too big to see everything all in one go, or you can click and drag to move the layout on the screen.

Nothing stopping you from getting stuck in and plenty of people around to help :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many thanks for such a speedy reply. Just to confirm re RM software, I could say, show 2 ovals not physically connected to each other on one screen and the software would treat them as all belonging to the same controllers (I use the plural term as I want to include point controllers as well)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is actually no reason why they need to be separate tracks, unless you specifically want it that way.  

With DCC, you control the train and not the track so it could be one layout.

Incidentally, I like to do the same as you and achieve it using the Elite controller, in conjunction with RailMaster (rather than e-link).  This gives the best of both worlds for me - RailMaster to control some of the trains and others controlled manually using the knobs on the Elite.  Of course you can have various programs and therefore have complete control over which trains you control manually and which by the computer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi TWD, just to add to what others have said, there's no reason to not use RM via your single eLink to control both layouts fully, including all locos and all points and accessories, if you wish to do it that way. 

And just to emphasise a point made further up, the schematic you design is there for your convenience, the interconnection of track pieces is not used by RM in any way. It's just there so you can see where your points and accessories are when you operate them. That will even be the case when loco detection is available I believe. So for your schematic, you can show the upper and lower circuits side by side, or one within the other, or any other way that works for you. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many thanks for all the replies so far - I can see this forum site as becoming very useful.

I'm glad you mentioned the loco detection above - I assume this will be some kind of photo detector with an output back to the controller to trigger other programming events? In the past I have used reed switches embedded in the track to relays connected together in a flip-flop arrangement to light an LED on the control panel. I was only thinking about using something similar to this today but don't see how you can input this back to the RM s/w to influence the program. Instead I have come up with a theoretical solution utilising a "dead" section fed by changing the points. It works in my head - can't wait to see if it works in practice!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reason for me is it would be totally impossible to link the 2 tracks in the space available due to incline restrictions - could have done it in N gauge which I used to model in but these old eyes needed a step up to a bigger size!

I understand what you say about the Elite + RM and I did consider it but the price is too high, even for 2nd hand ones. I've gone for the "Western Master" as I want to model a GWR layout. Also considered using the Select controller but seems too restrictive and not fully NRMA compliant. Apart from the starter set I am buying/going to buy 2nd hand DC locos and convert them myself - I've ordered some loco decoders from Hattons (their own brand) so if anyone has some feedback on those I would be interested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TWD, if you haven't already done so, download the trial version of RM from the DCC section of this site and you can start playing. Make sure you install as administrator and that your vrus protection isn't blocking it. Having started it up, allow it to download the latest update. This time you don't need to worry about the administrator bit, the first time should be sufficient. 

Loco detection capability is already built into RM, we are just waiting for Hornby to finish patenting the hardware to go with it. It comes with its own controller, detection tags for locos and detectors to mount in your tracks. You'll see some of this detail in RM Setup window, then after designing a schematic, install a detector somewhere, right click on it and look at the programming options you have. 

There is already heaps of speculation and some logical thinking about it on this forum. Do a search on loco detection and look at what has been said last year and early this year. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Teedoubleudee

OK, I just wanted to make sure you knew Elite was an option.  

The Select cannot be used with RailMaster though.

Take care with 2nd hand Loco's unless you are buying from a reputable model shop etc.  There are some awful (and some very good) Loco's available on that well known auction site!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks RDS,

I sold all my N gauge locos on "that" site last year but I'm a bit old fashioned about being up front hence my 100% feedback is fast approaching 500. TBH I've been fairly lucky with stuff I've bought and I normally research the seller before I bid/buy so very few dissapointments so far. The problem is, as I'm sure you know, the retail prices of anything connected with this hobby can be pretty prohibitive and it appears (to me) that some price fixing might be going on?

That aside, I'm really excited about starting up again and learning new ideas from like minded enthusiasts.

TWD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TWD, on Hatton's decoders, when they first came out last year, some who bought them reported a number of them to be non-functioning. There have been no recent reports of this though, so presumably that has been fixed. 

One thing you find with decoders is you tend to get what you pay for. The cheaper end have lower current, smaller number of functions and limited number of CVs you can adjust. Take a look at the leaflets for the basic R8249 and the high end R8245 which you can download from this site in the DCC section to see what I mean. Then if all you want is basic control of locos, the basic is quite adequate. If the most you want is light control, 2 function will suit. And you don't need a lot of CV adjustment on most locos, although a search in the forum will find some issues with Bmann using their decoders and the need to adjust CVs53-55.  If you are going to run older Hornby locos with the X04 motor, most recommend a higher current capacity than 500mA but then some have found that 500 is fine. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Fishy, I believe the Hattons decoders I ordered are rated at 1 amp. They are basic but all my locos will be small steamers so the most I'm likely to add (at a much later date) would be sound but I'm put off sound decoders atm due to the cost. I'm thinking of installing a static steam whistle speaker on the layout in front of a "WHISTLE" sign and just activate it with a reed switch, but I've not seen anyone selling a suitable device. What would be really cool if you could get RM to play a wave file - maybe an idea for the future?

TWD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, a quick question. I installed the RM software evalution files from the Hornby web site a few days ago to learn and play with it, though of course it was a bit retrictive without any hardware. TBH I didn't get too far into it but far enough to be impressed enough to go ahead and order some kit.

I've now got the Western Master set complete with Elite, RM CD and DCC fitted loco. So the question is: Would it be best to uninstall the evaluation program files from my laptop and start again with the CD  and activation code; or  should I try and activate the software already loaded. I know sometimes when you try and uninstall programs, bits get left behind like ini files, drivers and registry entries which can cause problems when a new install is attempted.  I'm running Win 7.

HRMS?

TWD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No need whatsoever to uninstall. Just put in activation code and you have your fully licenced copy. 

You can deactivate and reactivate on another computer if you wish, and as many times as you like but you can only have one copy on one computer active at any one time. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
  • Create New...