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Class 37 with lights not coming on?


PJ_model_trains

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Posted

The one with no lights -

 

Have they ever worked?

 

Is it new?

 

Are they led or bulb lights?

 

=======

 

If it is new, take/send it back.

 

If they did work, and now don't, either the lamps have failed, or there is a broken wire inside.

 

Again, if new, send it back. If it is well used, take the 'lid' off and have a look!

Posted
The one with no lights -

 

Have they ever worked?

 

Is it new?

 

Are they led or bulb lights?

 

=======

 

If it is new, take/send it back.

 

If they did work, and now don't, either the lamps have failed, or there is a broken wire inside.

 

Again, if new, send it back. If it is well used, take the 'lid' off and have a look!

 

Good morning 2e0

 

Thanks for your response.

 

No it is not new, I purchased a few second hand trains a year ago when I started out.

 

The lights did work but don't now. I knew six months ago but wasn't wwell then and have spent a lot of time building and modelling, plus more recently. signalling.

 

I recall doing something with CV's but it is that long ago can't remember what, it was one of those things, put it to one side and I'll come back to it.

 

PJ

Posted

Another couple of thoughts - have you got the service sheet for it. Is it a Hornby loco.

 

If it is Hornby and the lights are rigged like my Class 56 then there are little sprung wires that make contact with little brass pads thus linking the body and chassis. These are notorious for misbehaving.

 

I hard wired past mine in the end.

 

The other thing that affects lights on Hornby decoders is the way 'Speed & Direction' or 'Speed Function' is set in the CVs - Its a menu item when using the Elite. Look at the flow chart in the Elite manual. Try setting them either way and see if it makes any difference.

Posted

Just as RAF96 says it could well be the contacts. I have had a load of the BR Blue Class 31's (weathered) that are popular among a few up here in Toon and every time I open them up it is the contacts that are not working as they should. Two of my three did that.

 

Interesting that you have hard wired yours RAF96... how did you do it? Did you hard wire to the sprung wires or the soldered pads?

Posted
Just as RAF96 says it could well be the contacts. I have had a load of the BR Blue Class 31's (weathered) that are popular among a few up here in Toon and every time I open them up it is the contacts that are not working as they should. Two of my three did that.

 

Interesting that you have hard wired yours RAF96... how did you do it? Did you hard wire to the sprung wires or the soldered pads?

I snipped off the 3 x curly spring leg that presses on the pad, leaving the coil bit to solder a fair length of wire into then on to its associated pad. The wire is coiled up and the length allows me to take the body far enough away from the chassis for any maintenance.

Posted

Just as RAF96 says it could well be the contacts. I have had a load of the BR Blue Class 31's (weathered) that are popular among a few up here in Toon and every time I open them up it is the contacts that are not working as they should. Two of my three did that.

 

Interesting that you have hard wired yours RAF96... how did you do it? Did you hard wire to the sprung wires or the soldered pads?

 

I snipped off the 3 x curly spring leg that presses on the pad, leaving the coil bit to solder a fair length of wire into then on to its associated pad. The wire is coiled up and the length allows me to take the body far enough away from the chassis for any maintenance.

 

Thanks very much for your reply and description re the wiring. That's a good point about leaving enough room for maintenance and coiling the wire. I will take a look at my own models with these connections and maybe will modify if they do play up. Cheers mate... :-)

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