late starter Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hello, Gents,You have been a great help to me, in setting up my new hobby. But heres one i feel embarrassed to ask. I find great difficulty joining track to gether, in short im lacking track knack! Most times i think ive joined two pieces, only to find one join is raised, whilst the other is ok. Sometimes i hit on the nail first time, but then spend ages on the next one. Curves are the worst, any tips please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJ_model_trains Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hello late_starter A common problem if you have bad eye sight, or are doing the joining in bad light, I do not have good eye sight so have to be extra careful. Do the joining on a flat surface. The flatter the better. Don't be in a rush to push, this is a man think and accidents happen ;o) Position the two pieces of rail together, check the fish plate on one side is in line with the track you are to connect to. Then line up the other side. At this stage you are not pushing together just lining them up, ease them part way but keep them straight, do not twist them, check again to make sure they are going together correctly and then you can push them home. You know the problem, one fish plate goes under the rail, not connecting to it so watch for this before the final push. A flat surface is best, but if you prefer to lift them to connect them, just do it in stages to make sure they are connecting correctly before pushing them home. Once you have got the 'knack' you'll be OK. As mentioned earlier do not twist them, this willl weaken the fish plate and can cause problems later, not just derailment. The fish plate doesn't just hold two pieces of track together it carries the electric current between one rail and another. Weak or badly fitting fish plate will mean weak or bad flow of electric. Good luck PJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Good heavens PJ! I made a comment elsewhere just now about long posts. You get the prize for this one. On a light note without meaning any disrespect to l_s, the answer is "be more careful". And your bad electrical flow reminds me of something I've been meaning to say for ages on gradients - locos go up them fine, even under load, but the electricity has trouble with anything more than 2%, especially on curves! Now, tongue out of cheek and back to normal transmission, or at least as normal or abnormal as usual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
late starter Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 Hello late_starter A common problem if you have bad eye sight, or are doing the joining in bad light, I do not have good eye sight so have to be extra careful. Do the joining on a flat surface. The flatter the better. Don't be in a rush to push, this is a man think and accidents happen ;o) Position the two pieces of rail together, check the fish plate on one side is in line with the track you are to connect to. Then line up the other side. At this stage you are not pushing together just lining them up, ease them part way but keep them straight, do not twist them, check again to make sure they are going together correctly and then you can push them home. You know the problem, one fish plate goes under the rail, not connecting to it so watch for this before the final push. A flat surface is best, but if you prefer to lift them to connect them, just do it in stages to make sure they are connecting correctly before pushing them home. Once you have got the 'knack' you'll be OK. As mentioned earlier do not twist them, this willl weaken the fish plate and can cause problems later, not just derailment. The fish plate doesn't just hold two pieces of track together it carries the electric current between one rail and another. Weak or badly fitting fish plate will mean weak or bad flow of electric. Good luck PJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
late starter Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 Hello, pj,Long or not, youve answered the problem to perfection, you have obviously encountered the problem, so i feel less inadequate now! Its certainly nice to know that good, sensible & experienced advice is just a few taps of the key board away.O n buying second hand, what kind of features do you look for to ascertain if the loco has been well cared for, or well hammered? Many Thanks kc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJ_model_trains Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Hi kc May I ask are you looking to purchase, online in a sale or auction, in a shop or at a show? Once we know what type of sale you are considering, I am sure many members will be able help PJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
late starter Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Hi kc May I ask are you looking to purchase, online in a sale or auction, in a shop or at a show? Once we know what type of sale you are considering, I am sure many members will be able help PJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
late starter Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Hi kc May I ask are you looking to purchase, online in a sale or auction, in a shop or at a show? Once we know what type of sale you are considering, I am sure many members will be able help PJHello. pjI would be v interested in a princess coronation class loco, in as good a condition as possible , preferably red, & tested. Dc is fine. Also, a br tanker, i havent got the class no, but the one of Stanier design, bearing a resemblance to a black 5, if that helps, other wise will have to look at my 1960 ian allen! A good condition Mallard would be good also, but im not the sheik of araby, so costings are important! Many thanks, ps still sruggling with hit & miss track knack, but persevering. kc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Re the track - I found it easier when I put my reading specs on, so I could see what I was doing! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
late starter Posted December 21, 2014 Author Share Posted December 21, 2014 Re the track - I found it easier when I put my reading specs on, so I could see what I was doing! :-)Hello, PjReading hornbys care advice for loco maintenance, they recommend 3 in 1, which i have, but is there anything wrong with wd 40? To me, it may reach the places 3 in 1 doesnt etc, or if not please advise as to the dis -advantages, Many Thanks, kc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poliss Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 3-in-One dries up after a while and leaves gunk. I don't have a clue why Hornby recommend it when they use Labelle in the factory. WD-40 stands for Water Displacement - 40th attempt. It doesn't lubricate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graskie Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 I never knew that about the meaning of WD-40, poliss. Thanks for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJ_model_trains Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Re the track - I found it easier when I put my reading specs on, so I could see what I was doing! :-)Hello, PjReading hornbys care advice for loco maintenance, they recommend 3 in 1, which i have, but is there anything wrong with wd 40? To me, it may reach the places 3 in 1 doesnt etc, or if not please advise as to the dis -advantages, Many Thanks, kc. Hi kc If Hornby recommend 3 in 1 then they must do so for a reason. It is not for me to advise, your question is best put to Hornby. Guarantee? I wouldn't recommend Heineken either and they say that reaches parts others don't ;o) PJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJ_model_trains Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 I never knew that about the meaning of WD-40, poliss. Thanks for that.Me either GraskieWe learn something every day ;o) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poliss Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Hornby also recommend to leave the capacitors in when you convert a loco to DCC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 WD40 is known to soften some plastics, and dissolve others, so it is not a good idea to spray plastic parts with it!3-in-1 dries out, and leaves a sticky residue that attracts muck, so the motor (etc) doesn't run well, so you lube it with 3 - 1, and it dries out, adding to the sticky mess, until - - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graskie Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 - - you end up in a sticky situation! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancs lad Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 3-in-One dries up after a while and leaves gunk. I don't have a clue why Hornby recommend it when they use Labelle in the factory. WD-40 stands for Water Displacement - 40th attempt. It doesn't lubricate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancs lad Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 3-in-One dries up after a while and leaves gunk. I don't have a clue why Hornby recommend it when they use Labelle in the factory. WD-40 stands for Water Displacement - 40th attempt. It hhhhhhdoesn't lubricate.Hi Poliss, Labelle sounds like swiss watch oil, where can we buy it?I have had to re sign up to the forum, previous details were not accepted, im confused already! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 Lancy lad - try Gaugemaster! They sell it in little hypodermic-type squeezy syringes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poliss Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 I bought mine from Model Junction Slough. You can buy it from other shops, but I haven't tried them.They make several types of lubricants and grease for the various moving parts of locomotives and couplings.One bottle should last longer than you do. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancs lad Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 Hello, gents,I live near Stockport, Ches: & we have an excellent market, one of the oldest in the uk. A gent has recently set up a stall for all things model railway, & hes going to supply me with such an oil, with the type of oil & injector just perfect for locos.I also bought from a couple of weeks ago an excellent 1995 king class loco, v good runner, & to me it has a more solid feel than some of to days models, a case for returnto the uk, Hornby? Late Sarter, or more recently, Lacs lad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graskie Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 And now Lancs lad! (lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
late starter Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 And now Lancs lad! (lol)Ok Graskie, so i tapped the wrong key! So far, no one has answered my question on what to look for on a used loco,to distinguish a well hammered one to a well cared for one, ??Thanks Late Starter, Lancs lad, english teacher would be appalled! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJ_model_trains Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 When looking for good secondhand trains...- do they look new- do they sound new- do they have wobbly wheels LOL better stop here! Sorry wobbly wheelsPJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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