Going DCC with the Hornby Hauler set

[daniel hooper]

Hi  dan im 20 and for a while ive really wanted start a model railway and spent ages looking at trains and videos, I recieved the hornby hauler set yesturday after I saw it was 50% off and bougt it, but being an anolouge set your limited to the amoint of fun you can have, so what I want help with is if I want to go digitel with out having to buy a new set what is my next move.

Thanks dan :-) 

[96RAF]

Hi Dan

There have been several variations of the 'Hauler' set over the years but they all have a simple 0-4-0 loco which can fairly easily be converted to digital - see the Hornby guides page on the main web site for how to do it. It involves soldering though - you don't say if this is within your personal skill set or not - some people find it easy and some just can't do it.

Then you need a digital controller to make the loco work once converted. 3 options from Hornby - Select (reasonably cheap but limited as to what it can do), Elite (much more expensive but much more capable) and the Railmaster / eLink package (bargain price but which requires a computer to work). Other manufacturers have controllers at various price ranges as well.

You can read about them all on the digital page of the web site shop.

[daniel hooper]

Hi Dan

There have been several variations of the 'Hauler' set over the years but they all have a simple 0-4-0 loco which can fairly easily be converted to digital - see the Hornby guides page on the main web site for how to do it. It involves soldering though - you don't say if this is within your personal skill set or not - some people find it easy and some just can't do it.

Then you need a digital controller to make the loco work once converted. 3 options from Hornby - Select (reasonably cheap but limited as to what it can do), Elite (much more expensive but much more capable) and the Railmaster / eLink package (bargain price but which requires a computer to work). Other manufacturers have controllers at various price ranges as well.

You can read about them all on the digital page of the web site shop.

Well that sounds fairly straight forward  brut I don't have soldering tools, does the select come with all the leads I'd need ?

 

 

[96RAF]

The Select comes with all you need to power it up and connect it to the track just like your analogue controller did. Just remeber the Select cannot connect to a computer if you intend to go down that route later.

Depending on your track connector you may have to remove a capacitor from the clip - an easy job - but I can't remember where I saw the instructions to do it - probably in the Help screen within Railmaster. I'm sure someone else will be along soon to clear that up for you.

If you can't solder then maybe your local model shop could install the decoder for you or even a friend who can solder could be asked to do the job along with the instructions.

[2e0dtoeric]

You also need to buy a decoder! The basic one isn't too expensive, though.

[Chrissaf]

RAF mentioned the 0-4-0 loco decoder installation guide in his post, but in case you haven't found it, it is here.

[Teedoubleudee]

RAF mentioned the 0-4-0 loco decoder installation guide in his post, but in case you haven't found it, it is here.

 

I've done a fair few conversions now on 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 chassis but just read this for interest. I don't understand why the article tells you to refit the capacitors? Having read many articles elsewhere before embarking on my first conversion I have always followed the majority concensus and discarded ALL caps and soldered wires direct to pickups and brushes - never had a problem. DCC decoders have their own suppression circuitry built in and additional external components MAY actually have a detrimental effect on the running if left in place.

 

 

[daniel hooper]

Thanks for the help guys I understand a bit more now, just a matter of acquiering all I need.

[96RAF]

I've always taken them out completely as well TWD on the same understanding..

[poliss]

Old decoders didn't have radio interference supression components as I understand. Hornby had to tell you to put the capacitors back in to comply with the regulations. Shouldn't be necessary with modern decoders.

[Fishmanoz]

Not only is the guide "wrong" in suggesting you put the suppression components back when you shouldn't, it is also wrong to suggest on 0-4-0s over the last few years that you have to remove the motor because it is mounted with the contacts down.  It is not.

 

The complicated 25 step procedure, they give can be boiled down to:

 

- Remove the body

- Unsolder everything and discard all electronic components leaving just 2 pickup wires and 2 motor contacts

- Do not remove the motor (if you are converting an older model (more than 5 years old in my experience) where the motor may be mounted with its contacts facing down, remove it as per the guide, turn it over and put it back with the contacts facing up)

- Prepare the decoder as per the guide

- Solder decoder red and black to the pickup wires, one each

- Solder decoder orange and grey to one motor connector each

- Place on track and test.  If the loco runs backwards, swap orange and grey wires.

- Replace body.

 

There is no simpler conversion than this one, despite the complication of the guide.

 

Adam, this conversion guide has been wrong for years.  Someone should look at it.

[96RAF]

The most complicated part of the job is working out how to get the body off without breaking the little lugs as these are not all in the same places or release in the same direction. Also the little diesel body is in 2 parts with the cab helping lock the bonnet in place.

I just wish someone did a lower ratio gear set for them so they would run better at more realistic speeds, although DCC helps.

[Teedoubleudee]

Yep, that's what I do Fishy. IMHO these are the easiest conversions, except the challenge can be finding a place for the decoder with some bodies (A challenge that hasn't beaten me yet I might add!)

[Fishmanoz]

All agreed!