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Cleaning the track, the environment and Uncle Tom Cobleigh ('n all)


the ferret

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Under another thread I have just read how track cleanliness is achieved (so it said) by having the layout in a "Clean Room". Forty years ago I worked in an engineering company that had a Clean Room. It ws slightly pressurised to stop dust entering, we wore "shuffler" overshoes and hats. You entered the room via an airlock. I don't believe that a model railway needs quite such an extreme environment. But I am building my layout in an attic - inevitably there will be dust - it is quite unavoidable. Is there anybody else out there with an attic layout? If so, how do you fare keeping the track clean? Are track rubbers sufficient? Do you use 'Relco'? Do you use a solvent on a piece of rag? This last was the method of cleaning model railway track back in the 1950s. My layout is plain, old-fashioned DC and will remain so for the foreseeable future.
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Hi the ferret, I originally had my layout in the attic, all was fine for the autumn, winter and spring, but when the summer came the heat up there made it just too uncomfortable to enjoy the hobby, and just like the real thing all the main lines buckled with the heat, even though I had left enought space for this during the laying of track. Track rubber will do well, my perference is the Hornby one, I found that other manufactures rubbers leave bit of rubber all over the track which means that you'll end up hoovering as well after. I posted a string yesterday 'problems after ballasting' and got great replies, but all advice was Track Cleaning, Track Cleaning , Track Cleaning.....and as I hadn't used the rails for a number of months, out came the track rubber which was brilliant, once I cleared the track well enough for a loco to run I loaded up my CMX and ran that all around the layout with IBA (track cleaning soultion), but although it's a geat piece of kit, I personally found that track rubbers give a great deep clean without pitting the rails, then the cleaning solution, regardless of how you apply it, either by rag or CMX etc are useful for keeping the rails clean afterwards.... Hope this helps
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You should remember that the joists in lofts may not be strong enough for the purpose and you should get them checked. Also to be considered are the temperature differences from summer to winter. In summer it can get very hot and in winter very cold as insulation is usually on the floor of the loft. What's needed are insulation panels between the rafters. This will also cut down on dust and ensure a more even comfortable temperature. The cheapest and easiest way to clean track is to make one of these. http://wpporter.duckburg.us/trackcleaner.htm">http://wpporter.duckburg.us/trackcleaner.htm
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Get off the line Bobby.
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I had my layout in the attic for years. Had no serious trouble with dirty track, just cleaned it occasionally with a track rubber or cleaning fluid. Everything else on the layout got dusty but it didn't affect the running. Temperature was a problem. Too hot in the summer so I used an electric fan, (that spread the dust about a bit). cold in the winter so I used a heater.

WTD
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I had my layout in the attic for years. Had no serious trouble with dirty track, just cleaned it occasionally with a track rubber or cleaning fluid. Everything else on the layout got dusty but it didn't affect the running. Temperature was a problem. Too hot in the summer so I used an electric fan, (that spread the dust about a bit). cold in the winter so I used a heater.

WTD
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I had my layout in the attic for years. Had no serious trouble with dirty track, just cleaned it occasionally with a track rubber or cleaning fluid. Everything else on the layout got dusty but it didn't affect the running. Temperature was a problem. Too hot in the summer so I used an electric fan, (that spread the dust about a bit). cold in the winter so I used a heater.

WTD
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I had my layout in the attic for years. Had no serious trouble with dirty track, just cleaned it occasionally with a track rubber or cleaning fluid. Everything else on the layout got dusty but it didn't affect the running. Temperature was a problem. Too hot in the summer so I used an electric fan, (that spread the dust about a bit). cold in the winter so I used a heater.

WTD
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Carry on like that and you'll get Repetitive Strain Injury!! I said 'Carry on like that and you'll get Repetitive Strain Injury!! I said... oh you know what I said...!!
The light at the end of the tunnel is probably a train coming towards you !

PP

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Hi, Masomite is hardboard in the UK. I have seen an inprovement on this track cleaner, a Piece of lead sheet is added to the top of the hardboard and the screws slightly recessed. Cleaning of the textured hardboard surface is done with fine wired brush, until you reach the top of the screws when you replace the hardboard. The front edge of the hardboard needs a good bevel to stop it catching the points and the rail joints.
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An Amendment to the design of thsi rail cleaner Use a hollow brass tube for the post, screwed to the wagon with self-tapping screws and make sure the tube clears the top of the rails by at least 1 millimeter. The cleaning pad + lead weight is free floating on the posts so it can float up and down on the rails, to adjust for any irregularity. The front and rear edge of the board should have a good champered edge. </div>
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I've seen the design with the lead weights but didn't include it for the reason mentioned in the book Easy Model Railroad Wiring where Andy Sperandeo says "Anything I've seen to 'improve' them, like adding weights to the top of the pads or saturating them with oil or cleaning fluid, just makes them less effective."
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Get off the line Bobby.
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Masonite is a trade name for hardboard, it used to be available in the UK under this trade name. You only need a small piece so you should try to see if a local builder/capenter has a piece of scrap.
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Hi Ryan Nice to see that you're back, even under a Nom d'Plume. However, I think that would be an expensive way of getting a bit of hardboard. Be better off going round the back of B & Q and having a look in their skip for any broken furniture. I would do that, even though I get my 10% 'Over 60's Discount' every Wednesday.
The light at the end of the tunnel is probably a train coming towards you !

PP

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Hi the ferret, I have a layout in the attic and rather than infill between the rafters I screwed polystyrene backed plasterboard to the face of the rafters. It was easier than trying to cut up for between the rafters, also it helps with the temperature as it keeps it a lot warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. This also enables the area between the rafters to remain vented. I also put duck tape over the joints and a mastic seal around the edges to keep out the draft, some of the felt behind the tiles is ripped. I also sealed the gable end brickwork, party wall and chimney stack with watered down pva to help stop the dust from them. Whiteshield
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  • 1 month later...
The ferret says, "Be careful about sealing up the ceiling (!!*?!) Your

rafters should enjoy some circulation otherwise over a long period they might rot because of condensation. My 'Celotex' insulation is spaced away from the roofing felt giving an airspace for "breathing" of the timber.
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[Hi The Ferret you are right in what you say that is why I put it on the rafters and not between them. Also I have not put them right up into the eves so there is plenty of airspace.]the ferret said:

whiteshield said:

Hi the ferret, I have

a layout in the attic and rather than infill between the rafters I screwed polystyrene backed plasterboard to the face of the rafters. It was easier than trying to cut up for between the rafters, also it helps with the temperature as it keeps it a lot warmer

in the winter and cooler in the summer. This also enables the area between the rafters to remain vented. I also put duck tape over the joints and a mastic seal around the edges to keep out the draft, some of the felt behind the tiles is ripped. I also sealed

the gable end brickwork, party wall and chimney stack with watered down pva to help stop the dust from them. WhiteshieldThe ferret says, "Be careful about sealing up the ceiling (!!*?!) Your rafters should enjoy some circulation otherwise over a long period

they might rot because of condensation. My 'Celotex' insulation is spaced away from the roofing felt giving an airspace for "breathing" of the timber.
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