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Circuit Breakers


MatthewCarty

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I am currently having a problem where if I have a short circuit on my layout, all of the cv programming on my acessory decoders change to random adresses/pulse durations! I am considering putting a circuit breaker between the control system (Hornby elink) and the track (with the acessory decoder inputs coming directly from the controller. Does anyone on here have any experience with circuit breakers with dcc and could give advice/suggest a particular type of circuit breaker?

Many thanks.

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You might be better running your accessories from a power booster, and the loco's from another. That will do much the same job as a c/b.

I doubt that you will find a breaker that is fast enough in action to prevent the momentary 'spike' tripping the gadgets, and it might corrupt the data from the controller, anyway!

The cheap way of solving this is to find out what is short-circuiting, why, and fix that!

Are you using plastic frog points, or live-frog ones? Live frog pointwork can cause shorts if the wheel back-to-back measures are a bit out, on an item of rolling stock, or you have forgotten to include an IRJ on each rail at the outlet.

Are you using a power BUS, or those silly little U-shaped springy things in the points? Those point springs cause more problems than you would believe!

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Another alternative solution you could consider. Since you are using RM / eLink combo. You could buy an Elite controller. Split your DCC into two separate isolated sections. Run your track via Elite as controller A and your Accessory Decoders via eLink as controller B. Thus, the eLink becomes totally isolated from any track shorts. Other benefits would be that you would then have two PSUs. The 1Amp eLink just dedicated to accessories plus an Elite 4Amp dedicated to running locos. The Elite would also give you two physical controller knobs that become synchronised with the throttle sliders displayed in RM (i.e turning the physical Elite knob moves the corresponding slider display in RM and your loco control becomes either RM / or Elite).

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This configuration is used by many here on the forum.

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I also endorse Ray's suppressor suggestion. Something I implemented myself when experiencing a similar issue to you. I also concur with 2e0 regarding CBs not being fast enough to trip.

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Matthew, as I'm not knowledgable regarding such issues, I wouldn't normally have attempted to give any advice in response to your query.  Indeed, I read this thread earlier today, in order possibly to learn something that might be useful in the future.  Then, quite by coincidence, I came across this YouTube Video, which may be helpful:

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About 5:45 in, there is a description given of a system for short circuit protection using car bulbs!  I would guess that you don't need to have your layout divided into several zones, as per the video, for this to work.

I hope this helps.

Stephen

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Hi

Use an electronic circuit breaker.  IMO the best is the PSX range.  (PSX-1, PSX-2 or the PSX-3 or if you need it the PSX-AR)

Ensure the trip current on the CB is set to below that of the DCC system.  E.g. Elite is 3Amp so set the CB to around 2 or 2.5 Amp.

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... Use an electronic circuit breaker.  IMO the best is the PSX range.  (PSX-1, PSX-2 or the PSX-3 or if you need it the PSX-AR)

Ensure the trip current on the CB is set to below that of the DCC system.  E.g. Elite is 3Amp so set the CB to around 2 or 2.5 Amp.

 

ask yourself - would you take electronic advice from someone with this user tag. lol

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Flashbang (alias Brian Lambert).

Considering how many times your Brian Lambert pages get referenced as the font of all knowledge in these matters. I am really surprised how long you kept that bit about yourself quiet. I should imagine that it is greatly satisfying for you to see how often your information pages are referenced and appreciated. I've used them myself on many an occasion, excellent they are too.

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