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atom3624

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Posts posted by atom3624

  1. On the bench momentarily was my LMS Turbomotive.  She's been 'on display' for perhaps 5 or 6 months alongside where I sit.  I observed one of the front bogie axles' wheels didn't rotate when pushed and pulled along the 'display track'.  I've noticed this hardening of lubricant happening on quite a few Hornby front bogies over time - resolved easily by removal, cleaning of all surfaces, and 'light machine oil' lubrication again - all's perfect.  As indicated, there are a lot of Hornby locomotives I've had to do this to, to free-up the axles again, and it's not due to the wheels being pushed into the bogie.

    My 2nd Bachmann 08 shunter lighting kit installation has finally started.  Body removal of these does seem to be via 'some persuasion', which worked once again.  There's a wire at the front which loops around, and I found simply push-fits into one set of the steps, so this was removed which permitted full body removal.

    This time I've been able to remove the cab from the body - a requirement to the kit installation.  As the external lamp holes have already been drilled, the main installation should be a fair bit more straightforward than the first time!  ETA perhaps this time next week - no hurry.

    Al.

  2. One person commented in a recent review of the 'new Class 28' that the tooling doesn't appear to have changed since they were originally issued in, I think 2004, so don't expect super fine detailing.

    I like Heljan and have perhaps 6 of various of their locomotives - a Class 58 is on my tracks currently - quiet, super smooth, heavy with excellent power and traction.

    I have a new-tool Class 86 which is quite simply fantastic.

    They generally seem to use very powerful, good quality motors, but a little maintenance is always required - that original grease can get hard, should be removed and a little dab of fresh applied, for example.

    Al.

  3. Are the coupling rods straight?

    Do you know how to remove the motor?  If comfortable, doing this will permit you to observe 'pinch points'.  Should be able to roll freely.

    Al.

  4. There should be a hole at the top of the plastic part on the end of the linkage.

    The rod should then feed through this hole leaving very free movement.

    The other - metal - end has the stamped oval shape which should be a nice snug fit on top of the coupling rod where it locates on the rear wheel, generally the central metal pivot aims towards the centre, which when in operation should permit slight but regular linear movement as the loco moves along the track.

    Al.

  5. Don't forget that little metal pin to locate the plastic end of the oiler rods.

    I've replaced in the past using a piece of 'appropriate thickness' wire.

    Al.

    60700 Oiler #1.jpg

    60700 Oiler #2.jpg

  6. Behind your green highlight outline rectangle, underneath the running board you'll see a black piece of plastic.

    This should have a pin in it, and the black plastic end - ensure the rods are the correct way around - goes into this pin.

    The other end locates onto the REAR RHS driver.  This is the 'oiler' and was a way of lubricating the rods, etc., on the full sized locomotive.

    This is always the issue with A4's.  All will have the oiler on, which must be removed before the body is removed.  LATE LOGO B.R. A4's will also have the speedo cable on the LHS, which must be removed before removing the body.

    Al.

  7. Been working on one of the Bachmann 08 Stickswipe lighting kits - found out I'd advanced where I shouldn't have, so 'alternative modelling techniques' (drilling more holes!!) are required!

    I've got 2 of these - for the 2x Bachmann 08's - so once bitten .... as they say!

    Al.

  8. There has been doubt expressed wrt the ongoing reliability of the loco/tender connection long-term.

    I always have this doubt with the fiddly little white 4-pin plugs.  Unless you are able to maintain them connected, generally for storage, and for every major maintenance - body removal, etc. - they need to be disconnected / reconnected for use.  The same can be said for these, with the best of careful intentions.

    It's obviously a new / more convenient initiative by Hornby, who should be commended for at least trying something different and considerably less tedious.

    Good luck to all purchasers of this 'beautiful but flawed' model - it does look superb.

    Al.

  9. Progress continues with the Bachmann 08 kit #1 - not easy!  I hope to complete it over the Bank Holiday weekend.

    Those Dapol 'Turbot' wagons continued to give issues because of the glued in small Pb shot.  I decided I had to try again.  A grinding bit was fitted to the Dremel, and off came the shot!

    Al.

  10. Thanks, many actually don't agree.  I don't dislike her with blinkers, but much preferred her without them - some say the 'steam chests' (??) above the cylinders are too bulbous on the Coronations ... each to his/her ...

    (I still remember those rides now, DoS blasting the branches of the trees apart - perhaps deliberately?  !! 😉)

    Al.

  11. As with many preserved / heritage locomotives, they've got 2 lives:

    1. Those in normal operation from fabrication through to possible cutting up.
    2. Those after preservation.

    There may have been a limited time it ran without blinkers in 'normal use', perhaps with single chimney initially, then double - several variables throughout the class.

    After preservation, 6233 DoS was preserved and fully operational at the Bressingham Steam Gardens, near Diss in Norfolk.  I personally visited on several occasions and rode in her cab - and definitely without blinkers.

    Blinkers have been added subsequent to her change of ownership, refurbishment and general operation, for the many practical bonuses of 'lifting the smoke' out of the way.

    Personally, I much preferred her without blinkers.  Elegant nevertheless with or without.

    Al.

  12. It looks like a design which would be great, were to be at least 3x bigger - curve radii moderated and sidings substantially longer.

    Those sidings indicated won't hold more than 2 carriages, or 5 small wagons.

    Al.

  13. Yes, that misaligned smokebox door was horrible!

    One light was glued into place, another wasn't, plus replacing a lamp with a 'blanking lamp bracket' didn't blank out the light - poor design.

    Sorry Hornby, but everyone was hoping this was going to be a stunner, myself included.  It doesn't look that way at the moment.

    Al.

  14. Stickswipe, to those not familiar provides absolutely superb kits and 'aftermarket support' of lighting kits for locomotives not initially installed with them.

    Some modelling skill is definitely required, the hardest I find is drilling the holes.

    I have 2x Hornby 08's I've fitted kits to, which look superb, and 2x Bachmann 08's, for which I have the kits, but have just started - this includes 'flatting' the original non-functional moulded lamps, then drilling 0.5mm holes into each of them!!  Get one right, you feel great, then realise there's another 3!!

    I'd left this a while, but decided to proceed y'day - and .... success!!

    Next is to continue with the kit!!  I'm going steady on this one, but the holes have been done, which is a huge bonus.

    Al.

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