Gitter
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Posts posted by Gitter
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Hi, just to let you know , I re-installed Rm, after removing previous installation. Corrected Alternative Comms & Check Controller settings in the ini File list. Closed and restarted Rm , and everything was ok ,with the exception of Internet Connection . Left Rm running and went down for a coffee , came back up and had an internet connection. worked on layout for a couple of hours and closed down for the night. On powering up yesterday, the Internet Connection was lost. went on You-tube to ACs excellent Video on changing Configuration of I.P Address to a fixed Address. Did as instructed. Opened Rm , but no joy with Internet still not connecting. Gave-up and powered off for the night. came up an hour ago, powered up , opened Rm and everything as it should be.
A long story to get telling you that I am a Happy Old Man. I think I will go and have a glass or 3 of the Russian stuff & Irn Bru.smiley
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Hi Fishman, thanks for this info' . That's something new I've learned today.
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Thanks for your reply Chris. I was thinking about carrying out a new installation . I have been using AC's installation instructions . Thanks again.
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My old PC running XP crashed fatally. We were unable to recover anything related to Rmaster. Obtained a refurbished Windows 10 tower. I have now ( after 3 attempts ) managed to update and install Railmaster V1 .74 r 2 and Elite V1.45 .
I have 2 Problems (1) I have no connection showing for internet on Rm screen . And (2) when setting up , I am instructed to go into Compatabity settings and tick Admin box , but rhere is no option for selecting windows 10 . I have selected windows 7 .
Oh , how I miss Windows XP .
Can anyone advise me how to rectify these problems ?
Obviously I am unable to contact HRMS to reset my Rm key and Rm Pro code.
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Hi Sir John, I agree 100% with Colin B and The Duke . The accuracy is fantastic . It is a bit of of a weighty financial outlay , but at the end of the day you will say to yourself , it was worth it ,
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Onthescrapheap, hi, if you programmed on control "A" press knob to pulse point, then press again to activate in the opposite direction. Obviously the same if you used control "B".
On second thoughts it may be press button "A" then "B" to return.
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Pleased that you got it sorted out Colin. I think that it is a great turntable , very accurate . I sit and play with it empty , just for the pleasure of watching it.
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Hi Colin, went up and checked out mine. start up as you describe, as far as defalt to whatever spur position t/t is at , but does not flash. so as you say there appears to be a wee problem on yours as you say. I thought mine was probably performing in the same manner as yours , but I was wrong. Sorry about my confusion. Please rest assured that in no way was I questioning your electrical knowledge as I have read your comments/ input on other topics on the Forum.
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Does it obey commands from the Heljan controller . I am also wondering about reverse polarity when you have a loco runing off and on ?
Colin...... I don't really understand your concern with the display flashing when waiting on programme commands and driving to a new spur position , which as you have said is normal for the controller
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So have you run a loco on and off yet . I'm assuming you will have .
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Colin, it appears to me that you now have it wired up in analog mode . ( see wiring diagrams page 3 ) .
The power supply to the Heljan controller should be from your buz wires or soldered to track. The heljan controller display will flash when t/t moving to new position, Hugh.
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Have a look at modeltrains4u
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Very interesting. Well done Ken.
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Yes Ken , a very enjoyable video. Impressed
More power to your elbow sir.
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Very interested in seeing the video, where can I find it ? It's the engineering concept I am interested in , it's something I had never heard of.
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Duh !
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Hi Ads, if it was me, I would take it back to the dealer. You paid for a perfect item, and didn't recieve one. No doubt someone will be on to tell you just to gently ease them clear of the wheels. But if people accept this, how can we hope to give manufacturer feedback on quality control. Send it back.
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Oz, derailing on points is a better search . I would do a quick check on points levelling . I have had problems with that, you need to be quite accurate. Also if you have Vernier Calipers check the back to back measurement on wheels, from memory I think it should be 14.5 mm. Tape measure and rule/r , are not accurate enough . The plastic moulding on the frogs and guides also sometimes cause a bit of grieff.
STG got in before me. Thanks STG.
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Oz, can I suggest that you do a search headed simply as points . Do it in search by contents . Stacks of info there, not all of it relevant , but worth the reading.
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Hi Rob / Ken, please keep us informed how you get on with your thoughts on this. I'm very impressed with this sub forum and the engineering projects you take onboard. Great reading.
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Have a look at : smart-coupler by Subarashi Models. I know they do them for Kadees.
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You are correct in what you said about Kadee couplings. Seemingly they tried to make the height variable on the fishtail type , but they were dog ugly, (not prototype.) Looks like a bit of real modelling work if you want to have stock fitted with Kadees'.
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Hi Mantagt, Kadee do what they call an overset coupling (also do underset.) Both come in short, and long as well as the medium length. I can't give you part #, as I am not at home at this time. Maybe I am mis-understanding your problem, if not, I hope this helps.
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Hi Jdt, try slackening off the mounting screws to allow a very small amount of float on solinoid . By the way, Welcome to the forum.
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On trying to submit a post earlier, I put in the word V*^#a , only to find it blocked. The fact that it is identified to be a profanity amazes me.
( alcoholic drink from Russia ).