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vimal_indrasoma

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Posts posted by vimal_indrasoma

  1. Hello - your question isn't quite clear, but I assume you mean whether to paint the parts before or after cutting them from the sprue.

    In general, I prefer the paint the larger parts such as bodywork after assembly so that the seams and any other defects can be covered up first. Assemble, primer, sand, filler, sand, paint is best.

    For the tiny parts such as handles and such, it's easier to paint on the sprue and touch up later if any of the attachment points are visible. Another option is to cut the part out, clean it up and superglue a toothpick or pin to a spot that won't be visible and use that as a handle while painting, You can stick the 'handle' into a lump of modelling clay while it dries.

    forum_image_64c5d88049e9e.thumb.png.3819e3da67af5b950aefd0748b07b6f8.png

  2. Hello again!

    Revisiting my wishlist after a long, long time, I noticed that a couple of items were no longer available and were marked 'Discontinued' on one and 'Out of Stock' on the other.

    I thought I'd do some housekeeping and remove them, but it seems the only way to do that is to go to the item page and click on the little heart at the bottom.

    Discontinued items don't have a page, so I can't do that. We need a 'Remove' function on the Wishlist page.

  3. Being based overseas, I was pleasently surprised this morning seeing a copy of the new magazine on my doorstep. Wasn't expecting anything to get through the current lockdown. 

    I was quite pleased with the contents, a step up from the old pdf download, and very nicely printed.

    More articles on old airfix kits would be nice, I still remember the old polybag packs that my mum used to buy me each week when we went shopping. At only 6 years of age, they were more DIY toys rather than scale models to me, but I still remember them fondly.

  4.  I see what you mean about the big rectangular chunks on either side of the motor - probably big magnets to give more torque. There's quite a complex gearbox as well, more like a Meccano model than a styrene kit!

    I've seen loose motor pinions for sale in hobby shops that cater to R/C and Tamiya-kit  type car racers - you may be able to pick up one that fits. You'll need to take plates 1G and 8G and the two gear wheels that fit in between them with you, as well as the motor, to make sure they all mesh properly.

    Try Ebay as well, someone may have a broken model or loose bits they want to get rid of.

    Best of luck and happy new year!

     

    PS there's some scalextric motor pinions on Ebay that might fit.

  5.  A trial, especially the staircase

    I remember there was a trick to that ... it was either fixing it the 'wrong way round' to what common sense would tell you, or upside-down ... the instructions made a point about it which I couldn't figure out for quite some time. I built it back in '65, I think.

  6. hey ratch

    do you know where i can get some missing cogs as i am missing part 6n

    regards 

    oli

    Oliver - a close-up of the missing part (in the instructions!) might be useful. I don't see it in the rear-axle area you've shown above.

    Also, as Ratch says, try the Airfix spare parts service (click on the 'Contact us' link at the bottom of the page).

    Failing that, there are suppliers on E-bay who specialise in parts for models and toys.

  7.  Looks like a crown wheel and a pinion - around 1:4 reduction, perhaps? Seems it would still be an awful strain on the motor unless you give the various bearings some light lubrication, maybe a touch of silicone furniture spray?

    I would be terribly worried about letting it run, though - visions of it plunging off the dining room table or down the stairs!

  8. Weird thing happened with my build - I remember priming it with Halfords red oxide acrylic primer, which is still a "hot" laqcuer priner. I'd sanded the model smooth, but the primer seemed to find a "memory" of the surface detail and it finely etched the details into the surface!Fun build, nice looking aeroplane - would not say no to a new-tool though!

    You might be on to something there - take one old kit with embossed panel lines, sand smooth, apply solvent-heavy primer which cuts into the exposed detail scars more than the polished flat areas - result, finely etched panel lines!

  9.   Many thanks for the kind comments. @vimal: Great weathering on yours and I love the still-aflame drips!

    Sorry, I only saw your reply just now. Thank you, yes, the 'drips' are eye-catching, aren't they! Amazing what you can do with a few drops of glitter glue - here's another application (on the computer monitor) from the same era:

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  10. That sometimes happens if you don't shake the container enough - once you've used up the top liquid, the bottom has an overdose of the matt powder, which starts to crystallize out when you spray it on. Adding a bit of gloss clear to the bottle MIGHT help. DON'T mix acrylic and enamel!

    Google "Matt Varnish Frosting" and you'll get a page-full of varing opinions on this ... humidity has been mentioned as well, though I live in the tropics and not had it happen, probably since I tend to over-dilute my paints as a matter of habit.

  11.  The old Matchbox/Revell armour kits had a charm of their own, coming as they did with little bits of diorama (I loved building the Wespe with its little date palm back when I was a kid).

    However, I think the time has come to integrate the vehicles, figures and aircraft into one single scale. It won't be difficult to bring out all new re-tools in 1:72 and gradually replace and refresh the range. As to whether the 'HO/OO' figures are being 're-branded' as 1:72, I couldn't say - had scads of them as a child, but scales didn't mean much in those days when you're shooting at 'em with rubber bands.

     

    My RAF Recovery set does say 1:76, though. as does the Battlefront set (I assume that includes the figures), while the D-Day offerings are all marketed as 1:72 (although the Overlord set is marked 1:76 on the box!).

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