81F
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Posts posted by 81F
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I currently have a Bachmann G2A awaiting parts. Many years ago a wire linking the tender to the loco came off and in attempting to solder it back I managed to join all the terminals together.
Since then it has sat in the drawer donating a few parts to other locos and finally its tender chassis (less electronic equipment) to a second LNWR Prince of Wales I am 3D printing.
However, while taking a closer look at loco I realised that the PCB the wire from the tender was soldered to was actually a four pin plug. After about Half an hour (it's very fiddly) I managed to plug in the spare tender I bought for my first Prince of wales and found the loco runs!
So have now just ordered another tender from bachmann spares for my 1st Prince of Wales - something of an unexpected result!
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I know the original Triang version and later 08 with the ordinary couplings used different versions of the standard Hornby 0-6-0 chassis as I have been swapping bodies over on these for years now, but I remember reading somewhere that the version with the Automatic coupling used a B12 Chassis - is this true?
My reason for asking is that I need a B12 chassis but with wheels around 20mm in diameter for another 3D printing project I am considering (LNWR 19" goods). If this is true I hope it would be easier to use one of these than top re-wheel a B12/Hall chassis.
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Seem to have lost a buffer Head on my Hattons 48XX so have Ordered some Hornby King buffers and will replace all four.
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@ Bee, I wish I could say that no manufacturer is ever likely to produce my models. I did a GWR 517 once for a Hornby 14XX chassis and just discovered that Dapol are to produce one!
Thankfully it is a slightly different version to the one I wanted so all is not lost.
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Many thanks, I didn't know about the link. I will take a look and see if it helps.
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There are two things to watch for if using B12 wheels - The first are the flanges and possibly colour. Kneller Hall had slightly finer wheels when it was brought out compared with Albert Hall and the black B12 made only a year or two before. Looking on eBay for parts I find that far more of the old type wheels are available. However, I did use a set of contemporary LMS Class 5 wheels to upgrade an Albert Hall once (although I has to change the crank pin on the set of centre driving wheels, although I assume it is not the centre wheels that are the problem.
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The "Airfix" type pocket is the type fitted to Hornby's Auto coach, 14XX and some other rolling stock made from the tooling they purchased from DAPOL a few years ago. These models were originally made by Airfix in the 1980s. If someone can tell me what the diameter of the pivot that fits through the hole in the Kadee coupling is I might be able to work the rest out for myself. by checking the height against my few American coached and locos I already have. Sadly none have nem pockets.
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My two most recent test prints were only for half a loco so they only cost around £21. but I've been using the cheapest plastic up until now. When I eventually print the final version in detailed plastic I expect it will top £70
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I too have had the same problem with a GWR King. Unfortunately it kept falling off so I eventually had to replaced it. If looking for parts remember Hornby locos shared many parts with other types so just don't restrict searches to Hall wheels.
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Many thanks Threelink. Still a few more test prints to do as I am not sure if the motor is hitting the top of the boiler so I have uploaded a couple of sectioned virtual models to see what clearance there is above the motor. I will also use these to see if I can get an old X04 powered chassis into the body.
One of the files has what I think is an earlier front end while the second is the later version like the one above except I have lengthened the body as the one above is a little too short for the chassis.
Spent the evening going through the virtual model tidying up the inside and making it much smoother. Hopefully that will fix the knocking as there was a tiny bit of plastic sticking out that may have been getting in the way of the con-rods.
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Of all the different types of Kadee coupling mounts, does anyone know if there is one that will fit into the Airfix type coupling pocket without carving up the chassis (although dismantling the pocket and putting it back together is acceptable)?
My hope is to replace the current wide push in coupling fitted to the Tender of my GWR King George V so that it can pull American Rolling stock.
Also even if it is possible to fit the coupling would the height difference make this a pointless exercise?
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I think the Silver Seal wheels came out around 1976 when I started with my first Electric Train set and I remember that a Great Aunt bought be a 16T BR mineral wagon to go with my first Train set which only had plastic wheels. At the time the silver seal wagon was one of my best runners but I was using the old Super 4 track and had exactly the same problem when I converted to PECO track in 1978.
Sadly bad attempts at detailing to try and bring the wagons up to the same quality as the Mainline, Lima and Airfix stock appearing on the market resulted in all of them being withdrawn. However, I have recently purchase quite a few Hornby Mk1 and Mk2 coaches some with silver seal wheels which I have swapped out the originals for the Hornby 3 hole disc wagon wheels which run beautifully. Dapol wheels also work but I have found some to be not as free running as the Hornby versions but otherwise OK.
A couple of useful tools to get is a 00 back to back gauge, as some of the modern wheels can be a little out of gauge which can cause derailments (however this will not work on wheels which are molded to the axles like silver seal). The other is a bearing reamer which will correct any minor defects in the bearings. I has also fixed some of the tight running dapol wheels.
In fairness we should also mention Bachmann make spare wheels that would work over PECO points but I find these a little more expensive and no so free running in Hornby, Mainline and Airfix stock until the wagon/coach have had some attention with the bearing reamer.
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That's nothing the Nord Railway in France had loads of them lol.
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The new Chassis extension and tender drawbar arrived today. The latter no longer lifts the tender and holds the tender away from the body ans swings more freely. However it only just goes around small radius PECO streamline points so have made the virtual model 1mm longer ready for the next print.
However as shown above, rear of the body is effeminately 1mm too high. Also the chassis extension needs further modifications to lower the front. Unfortunately the body is also too short for the chassis so I will need to compromise and stretch the whole thing by a mm or so. I will achieve this by moving the smoke-box 1mm further forward and stretching the boiler. As well as moving the bufferbeam 1mm further forward I have also made it slightly thicker.
I am now uploading the new body onto Shapeways and running the automatic checks.
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Dear All, please can I check my facts before I "overload" a model wagon?
Am I correct in thinking that the weight painted on steam era wagons was the weight of the cargo alone and the Tare weight was the weight of the wagon empty? Therefore a fully loaded BR 16T mineral wagon would actually weigh 16T plus 6T, 17CWT Or is it the case that the 16T is the weight of the wagon and load and therefore its capacity would be 16T minus 6T, 17CWT which I think is 9T, 5.4CWT?
Also regardless of the answer, have I got my maths right when subtracting 6T, 17CWT from 16T?
Many thanks to anyone who can help.
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Been studying the pictures a bit more and noticed that several of the Prince of Wales class had coal rails on the tender so will need to develop some. Possibly in Bronze as these look quite fine and would probably snap in detailed plastic.
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After some delay, the print mentioned above arrived Tuesday.
I've almost got the height right but still some work to be done. The tender draw bar is too short so I have now lengthened it slightly, Also it has a tendency to lift the front of the tender so have made more modifications to resolve this .
The crank in the chassis extension that I made to replace the original B12 one is still too much as it continues to lift the body slightly and to pops out as it is fractionally too short, so I have lengthened this this and reduced the crank. Hopefully this will push the chassis back and allow me to tighten the body screw which will reduce the amount the front bogie appears to protrude.
If I remove the tender coupling and pushr down on the body so that its level, the running plate seems to be around 1mm to high, while the top of chimney is also about 2mm higher than it should be. I will therefore reduce that by 1mm. Hopefully lowering both the body and the chimney will bring it back to within loading gauge.
On the rolling road there is a regular knock so I will be increasing the clearance above the con-rods. Another modification I have already made to the virtual model iks to lengthen the steps so that they should line up better with those on the tender.
I will ultimately make two versions of the body, the one shown which is in a later condition while the other will be in original condition, and it will be this one that goes for the next test print as I just have to switch in a new smokebox saddle and switch off some pipework on the boiler
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Thanks Simmo, I think I'll have to look for it on line as both my local Rustoleum suppliers (Wilco & B&Q) have closed
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@Simmo009 do you know t5he name of thje textured paint? I used "Roughcoat" I think made by a Warhammer to texture the roof of my Scaledale Colliery and it was very good but they discontinued the paint many years ag0 and I still have one roof to do.
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Making allowances for the axles presents some interesting problems. My approach evolved out of the type of component made and its choice of materials.
Some of my initial models were coach bogies made to replace the BR Mk1 type used on the Lima Siphon G and Hornby short clerestories. As the former used a flexible plastic I chose Shapeways "versatile plastic" to enable the axle boxes to be sprung out therefore the grove into the bearing was not necessary.
Indeed my initial models were designed to use Romford "Top hat" bearings so a grove would have been not help. To this end I used a stub axle as below. The 4mm diameter was to accommodate the bearing flange while to two projections either end were 2mm diameter and stick out 5.5mm beyond the flange. This shape was then deleted from the finished bogie frames whoes inside faces were 23mm apart, thereby giving a 0.5mm recess for the bearing flange.
The nature of Versatile plastic is such that when some wheels ran a bit tight, I could slightly flex the side-frames outwards around two dozen times to slightly stretch the print until the wheels ran smoothly, being careful not to break anything.
However, when I experienced difficulties obtaining bearings, I adopted the approach that you have taken by replacing the axle model with a straight sided 'rod' with pinpoints on the ends. Overall length 26mm with the points being cones 2.5mm x 2.5mm diameter (see below). Although, as I still used the flexible material I did not need the grove.
As I moved onto complete wagon kits where versatile plastic appeared too grainy, I used a composite material approach making the body out of fine detail plastic while I still used Versitile plastic for the under frames (or at least the parts that carry the axle.
Unfortunately this approach has not worked for my 009 GVT slate wagons and I soon found that the versatile plastic too brittle despite introducing grooves. I have therefore being experimenting in making these in Bronze via Shapeways. As a result you may wish to consider getting that firm to makey our W irons and axle boxes out of either bronze or brass and then fix them into a fine detailed plastic body.
I hope you find the info useful particularly the dimensions as a starting point although they may need some adjustment as some of my prints have prooved a little too tight.
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Hi Rana,
They are also so easy to hard wire DCC and although noisy I do like the way they growl, although not quite the right sound for any particular diesel it is a t least a bit better than the steam equivalent chuff-chuff fitted to the Triang B12 and Hall and presumably not really intended!
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Some of my earliest memories is being sat looking out of a window at a railway bridge at the bottom of our road which carried the single track line between Kennington Junction (south of Oxford) to Prince's Risborough (then truncated as far as the car factory in Cowley and seeing the occasional train of car transporters waiting at the bridge pulled by some blue diesel or another.
Sadly we moved away shortly after I started school as a "rising five" so this must have been circa 1971. A little later my father started tio help with my Great grandfather and great Aunts Allotments at Cripley Meadow, Oxford which was right next to the sidings just north of the former GWR loco sheds (by then demolished). However, I found little to be inspired by the incesent stream of class 47s and soul-less DMUs. However, the inspiration did come from a trip to the GWS at Didcot and seeing Pendennis Castle on its last trip before it went to Australia and my first electric train set (the 1975/76 GWR freight set) and a visit to Pendon.
I was fortunate to witness some of the last vestiges of the GWR before they disappeared at varous places particularly when on trips out and I think it was this coupled with several old films and the memoirs of the Fireman Harold Gasson that fueled my interest in all things GWR. However, My interest in the Glyn Valley Tramway came about as a desire to create as much of a complete railway as possible (not difficult with around a dosen coaches and only four locos!
Oddly old age has brought about a certain level of nostalgia about those blue boxes I found so boring at Cripley Meadow hence my growing collection of second-hand Lima Diesels (I'm not that nostalgic to fork out on any of the new ones!).
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Hello Bee,
Might I suggest a some pure speculation about the cutouts - could they be there for some other purpose connected with the uprights or could they have been second hand originally intended for a shorter three compartment coach which might explain why they are not the same length as the coach body.
Also a swing back seat means that the distance between the "doors" would not need to be as great as that required for back to back seating, so each compartment could be around 2/3rd the size of those in the blue coaches. Consequently the entire swing back coach would only need to be around 1/3rd longer than the blue coach.
Note also that nobody is sat facing at the end of the coach in the 1833 image which also suggest to be a shorter compartment.
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Just been notified that my latest test print left the Shapeways in the Netherlands this morning. Much earlier than the previous estimate of 26th. I hope this time the body will fit securely enough on the chassis for me to test run on the Rolling Road to check con-rod clearances and height above rail level when the fixing screw is fully tightened.
However, this is the print before I added the frames shown in blue so I will still have at least one print before I'm ready for the final (and more expensive) fine detail plastic.
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08 Shunter with Automatic front coupling.
in General Discussion
Posted
Many thanks Going Spare, but I can almost feel a but coming in that other parts might not be, so might it be difficult simply fit a B12 chassis extension and bogie to it?