olly
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Posts posted by olly
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just an update
I’ve ordered some JST Sh connectors from eBay
To order them from Farnell would have been expensive for what they are as they have a small order charge of about £9 So I would’ve ended up paying more in postage and charges that for the actual item
Here’s a link to the ones I got from eBay in case it’s any use to anyone else
thanks for all your help everyone
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We seem to be going around in circles here a bit like our trains 🤣
I thought this was a fairly simple question what ones do I need to do this
I appreciate all the technical knowledge but it's not really relevant to my use in model railways. I'm not making electronic devices for sale or using it in automotive or aircraft
To answer the question about why I want to be able to repair the plugs myself it would be a lot easier and convenient for me to to be able to do it myself. I also fit sound into older locos a the plugs and sockets would be useful. Plus I would rather do things myself than have to get someone else to do it
Thanks for the help so far
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to keep things simple can anyone tell me what size I need for locos?
there are a lot of different sizes and names mentioned
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Hi Olly
Crimping tools are sized to the conductor. Once you know the gauge (diameter) of the wire, without the insulating jacket, then the size of the pins and crimping tool has a direct relationship. If it isn't printed on the wire itself, measure it.
Having dealt professionally mountains of conductors, I note that you do not have a pin extraction tool as part of your repertoire. Pins lock into the non-conducting surround based on the direction of connector insertion. Inserting the connector should not drive the pins out of the back of the housing. To release a pin, the pin extractor is driven in to the back of the connector hole (where the wire comes out) until the locking pins release, and then the pin and extractor are simultaneously withdrawn.
Bee
that was going to be my next question was there a tool to remove the pins
I've done lots on locos and radio-controlled models using a needle or a blade or something but having the proper tool would be easier going to look for one
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Has anyone on here got any experience with repairing the white locomotive to tender plug on Hornby and other models?
I know you can buy as a spare part, the four-pin connector with wires attached and then solder that to the Loco but usually it's only one pin that needs replacing.
I've seen you can buy the small connectors and the crimping tool online from places like eBay and Amazon
What I'm not sure of is what size I need.
I've included a few links to the products I've been looking at
if anybody could tell me if these are suitable for Model railway use it would be very helpful
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134781932915
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134708923115
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335085754722
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Thanks, everyone for your replies
It sounds like hopefully, I won't have any problems
I will let everyone know how I get on
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I’ve just got an NCE power cab to replace my worn-out elite.
I seem to remember people having problems with Hornby tts decoders and non-Hornby controllers a while ago?
Was it something to do with the firmware on the tts decoders?
can anyone tell me what the problem was?
is there a list or a way to find out if a decoder has the problem?
I have quite a few TTS locomotives both factory-fitted and ones I fitted myself. so it would make it easier if I knew what models didn't have the issue
I haven't tried the power cab yet
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Hi
I have just found the plastic washer on my layout so I have refitted it to the locomotive.
its a lot easier to see in the photo than in real life
it doesn't seem to make any real difference
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yes it's different from the service sheet 290D .its even gone back to the old lima non-NEM couplings
I've posted a few pictures of the chassis
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HI
Can anyone help with my Hornby railroad plus R30178 class 67 locomotive?
this is the ex lima tool that's been modified with a single-motor bogie
I have lost the small thin clear plastic washer that goes between the bogie pivot and the loco chassis on the unpowered end
There’s no service sheet listed for this model
Can anyone take a picture of the loco with the body removed showing the washer?
It doesn’t seem to make any difference to the model and Hornby doesn’t seem to know
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Glad you got it running
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Could the front wheels or the front bogie have been put on the wrong way?
Can you post a picture of the chassis looking and the bottom showing both ends with the wheels
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Yes it feels very strange.as someone who has only known the queen as head of state
i payed for my one earlier this morning before The sad news
not sure I really want it now
Rip Queen Elizabeth II
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I know about only fitting the tyres in the grooved
I've found the opposite with the Pendolino it derailed sometimes when showing down with the wheels with the tyres on the diagonal.so I've swapped one wheelset round
Interesting about the weight but my one seems ok at the moment but something to keep in mind if I add more coaches
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What’s people’s opinion on the fitting of traction tyres on Hornby diesel and electric locomotives?
Some are fitted on the same side of the bogie and others are diagonal across the bogie. It seems to vary a lot between models of even the same type and can be different to the service sheet
what's the best way to have the tyres fitted?
on my new Pendolino, they were fitted diagonal but I had the odd derailment when slowing down so I've swapped one wheel round so they're on the same side.
I may look at fitting Marklin traction tyres if I can find the right size as I've found these to be better quality than the Hornby ones .
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I’ve had the same email this morning Britannia builder
I Have tried to update my payment online but it’s not working.
will try again Monday morning then call Hornby if it’s still not working
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I use Marklin part number 7152 for the Hornby 4-4-0 locomotives from the railroad range.
They're a great fit and give much better performance than the originals.
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I'm sure you do get a free loco with your membership for 2022? it's a red 040 R30202 to celebrate 75 years of Hornby/Tri-ang.
Maybe worth checking with Hornby First
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thanks, ColinB
It's very useful to have a picture. You've got me tempted to fit the lights now to my p2
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Has anyone got any pictures of the tts decoder and speaker fitted to this loco?
I'm about to try and fit sound to the one I got for Christmas.
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Sorry to be negative at Christmas but it’s about time Hornby sorted out the set controllers so they work properly.
It’s not good enough to have a brand new set and have to replace the controller straightaway.
It must put new people off the hobby. I wonder how many give up when they’re set doesn’t work and don’t continue with the hobby.
I had my first train set controller for a good few years before upgrading to a better one.
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Just an update to bring this post to a conclusion
I now have the sound working again.
I have used a dc kits princess royal sound file and I’m very happy with it. I would say it’s the best UK steam sound I have it’s up there with my big boy and Roco S160
£20 well spent
I think the original sound file was corrupt or had a bit missing
Thanks, everyone for your help
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@Olly.........check the value of CV443 which is the steam hiss sound, default is 100. This is the continuous sound I hear on my Loksound steamer when stationary......HB
That didn’t work as it would not read or write CV 433
Barrie Davis YT channel
in General Discussion
Posted
Barrie has decided not to do YouTube videos anymore.
I've spoken to him recently and he's had this virus that's been going around but apart of that he's doing ok health wise
Hope that helps