dadad
-
Posts
82 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Articles
Gallery
Posts posted by dadad
-
-
Hi,
the usual power equation is P=VI (voltage times current) by using Ohms law rearranged to replace V and I in turn then simplifying you get two new equations P=IIR (I squared R) and(VV)/R (V squared divided by R). I hope this helps.
John
-
Hi there,
I have secured all my track with track pins, however I might soon have a larger room available an so will be extending my layout. I think that gluing the track down could be a bit of a messy business and have been thinking of using screws in future. After all fixing track down is not to hold it down (gravity does that) it is to stop it sliding and coming apart so it needn't be a strong or permanent fixing.
John Thompson
-
Hi, as a teenager I used to go to R A F Cosford with the A T C for glider training. I caught a railcar from Wolverhampton low level to Cosford halt ( just by the gate to the airfield). So when I bought a railcar to add to my layout my granddaughter insisted that I bought some R A F figures from the model shop at the end of her road. I got the railcar open and added some airmen, civilians and a driver, I thought that it was an improvement so I have added passengers to all my carriages now, although they are not to noticeable when running on the track I can see that they are not empty and the grand children (apprentices) choose which coach to run by what passengers they can see.
-
Hi there,
being one who is disappointed with prices these days I was pleased to see a web special, Galloway Princess (R30080) as a web special for under £100.00 so I treated myself. Chipping it was a bit of a nightmare as I seem to have got a duff decoder, all fixed and running now, I even put a driver in whilst the top was off. More prime movers at sub £100.00 please.
John
-
Hi there,
Lead free solder requires a higher temperature to melt it, this could cause the plastic bits to melt. There are low melting point solders, some are called Roman solder, others just L M P solder.
John.
-
Hi there,
R8015 might help, but you may have to do some work to make it weatherproof.
John
-
Hi there,
Regarding a previous post my local Hobbycraft store no longer stocks Airfix kits or Humbrol paints, I suspect that this is across all branches and not just my local store.
John.
-
Hi there,
I bought a length of 9 links to the inch chain from Langly's ( 30 inch lengths) and cut several 9 link lengths to use as couplings. These work fine and are fitted using fine point tweezers and as has been said have a more realistic take up with the first coach moving off with the last one stationary.
John
-
Hi there,
Since returning to the hobby I decided to go DCC I use Hornby track, mainly Hornby rolling stock (but not exclusively), eLink and RailMaster, various decoders some installed by me and some by the loco supplier, Hornby accessory decoders, and point clips (7 points), my layout is the Hornby oval plus expansion packs A to F. All with no problems.
-
Hi there,
I have found that the type of cleaner that clips onto an axel (I think a gaugemaster product) very good. I fit one to all wy guards vans and guards compartment coaches, then every train that I run is cleaning my track. I bought some for a present for a cousin and he was impressed too.
John
-
Hi there,
I thought that the space in my Tornado looked a bit tight so I bought a DCC29, once the update arrived and the decoder added to the software all worked fine.
John
-
Hi there,
according to the N M R A waggons should wiegh 25 grams per axel. M wife used to get weights for the bottem hem of net curtains, they were small peices of lead in a net tube.
John
-
Hi there,
for white lines I use Tamia masking tape, it comes in several widths pick the one that you think looks right. I use 1mm (3 scale inches).
John
-
Hi there,
I have a pair of ceramic tipped ones, very useful for holding wires in place whilst soldering. I cannot remenber where I bought them from ,probably amazon.
John
-
Hi there,
model shop owners are ususaly a helpfull breed, one may run your loco on his test track to see if it works and then recomend a suitable controller for you, if it does not run or is a poor runner he may offer to service it for you for a modest charge. Both the model shops near me usualy offer a small discount from list price on some items so a new controler from them may be cheeper than mail order especialy when including p & p.
John
-
Hi there,
Or you could just go to Brian Lambert's pages, www.brian-lambert.co.uk/
-
Hi there,
a micron is very tiny, one millionth of a metre, one thousandth of a millimetre.
John Thompson
-
Hi there,
as a good source of information on most aspects of our hobby I recomend Brian Lamberts pages as a good start. I find them interesting in there own right, and they have stopped me reinventing the wheel several times. Here is his sight address, https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/
All the best John
-
Hi there,
the first extra loco that I bought was the mallard, I did some research and decided that the teak coaches would look good. I went to a model shop near my daughters during avisit, the owner greated me with, "What era do you model?" after a moment s thought and inspired by the near to me Nene Valey Railway I said, "Modern era preservation railway." "Oh!" he said, "anything goes then." I have since heard that a lot of modellers do the same so that any loco can pull any stock, after all it is YOUR railway. I now have an interesting mix of locos and stock and stuff goes on the track as it needs exercising.
Good luck, John.
-
Hi there,
you probably need to construct a track bus, this web site should help, but is interesting anyway https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/ All the best
John
-
Hi there,
incorperating a double track level crossing (R636) will give you the correct spacing.
John
-
Hi there,
I have found that the lightest cross pein hammer that I can find is best for knocking in the track pins. With the pein in line with the tracks you should be able to hit the heads and miss the tracks. such a hammer should be available in most D I Y stores and many craft shops, check the jewlry making section in craft shops for a range of usefull looking tools.
John
-
Hi there,
I am not aware of any disimilar metals problems with nickel/silver and steel, I would avoid steel rails as they always rust, and therefore are impossible to keep clean.
John Thompson
-
Hi there,
I'm 68, what is the average running at now, late 50's I guess.
John
Coach paint
in General Discussion
Posted
Hi there,
if it helps humbrol publish a colour chart https://uk.humbrol.com/support-and-advice/advice/humbrol-wallchart.
john