ColinB

Probably the motor has moved backwards and disengaged with the intermediate gear, it happened with my King. Take the loco body off and you will see what is wrong. I don't know on this one how the motor is held in but it might just be a case of clipping it back in.

I don't know if this is any help, but I have found that soon as you enable DCC if the loco has lights, they come on when using certain decoders. It happens a lot on my ones. Once you select the right address, they then go off and don't come on again as Chrissaf says until you press function 0. If it is a new decoder it has an address of 3. I will let Chrissaf advise you on the Select, I don't have one of those.

It looks a bit like fitted to one of my locos, probably a Brittania, I think that is the one I have apart on a regular basis. The back mount is out of stock though, but looking at it you might be able to make one of those.

It appears Peters Spares makes his own, so no need to aradite it in. It has a different part number as it obviously a replacement part manufactured by Peters Spares. https://www.petersspares.com/peters-spares-ps61-replacement-hornby-t9-motor-mount.ir

It appears Peters Spares makes his own, so no need to aradite it in. It has a different part number as it obviously a replacement part manufactured by Peters Spares. https://www.petersspares.com/peters-spares-ps61-replacement-hornby-t9-motor-mount.ir

From what I gather from the posts, the motor retainers break and you can't get replacements. I don't have one of these locos, so I wouldn't have a clue as to how easy it is to fabricate something. So I suppose that is why he used Araldite. The locos I have most trouble with are pickups on Fowler Tanks, front bogie of Schools Class and valve gear for BofB/West Country/Merchant Navy. They did improve the front bogie on the Schools class, but sadly they don't have them as spare parts. I did have to fix someones Bachmann loco where the tender connection had broken, but I managed to get a brand new one plus pickup plate from Bachmann.

I suppose it depends on the Heljan, my class 47 has an 8 pin socket with led lights. A lot of my others have 21 pin sockets and one of them actually has bulbs which I find amazing in this day and age (I only recently bought it new). So if it has bulbs, that definitely rules out TTS decoders. You have me worried now, I recently fitted a class 47 TTS to my Heljan class 47, I better check the current.

I applaud your fix but I must admit it is getting harder to repair broken locos, because of the lack of spare parts. Hornby seem to do very few replacement parts for new locos. I have bought second hand locos only to find they have issues with their pickups or base plates. Usually you can modify a pickup you can get, but they never seem to work the same. I did try at one point to fix my Merchant navy valve gear with bits from scrap valve gear parts but also found that it doesn't always work. I must admit I am getting to the point of only buying Bachmann locos secondhand as that nice lady at Bachmann always seems to have spare parts and she replies in a day. Reading all the posts about this loco you would think Hornby would have made replacement parts that work and sold them as upgraded spare parts, that is what the motor industry does. I suppose Hornby has the copyright, so I suppose some third party can't make them.

Yes Fishmanoz I agree with you entirely. I sat and thought about just after I posted the post and came to same conclusion. To me the only time you might get an issue is switching the dcc on/off or a really bad piece of track.

No, what I meant was the bar thet extends underneath the coupling is shorter so the end is higher off the ground, than for an old Hornby one (which Hornby still fit to some of their models).

I have a mixture of new and old stock. Yesterday getting my brand new Dapol Western trying to couple to some old Hornby coaches was difficult and then trying to get them apart afterwards was even more difficult. The biggest issue I have is couplings uncoupling themselves whilst moving. Hence the use of magnetic ones. Back on the original subject, that Hornby one is nearly as old as me, admittedely they have changed the track type several times over that period but the method is still the same. They have modernised it by making it solenoid controlled. Trouble is NEM couplings are higher than the old Hornby ones, so would it work on all types?

I am confused, I mention that some people want a motor driven one and that it is of no use to me as I use the magnetic ones even though these cause some issues with NEM couplings. So why the comment? I assume some people want a motor driven one so they can adjust the height, but who knows. As I said in one of my posts, it is probably Dapol or DCC concepts that will come out with one some time. DCC concepts already have the technology to do it.

Possibly Hornby wanted more produced but the supplier had other jobs. Hornby "outsource" their production so they have to fit in with whoever produces them. If manufacturer is already signed up to make someone elses products then perhaps they didn't have the capacity to make the Hornby extra models.It could be another company offered more money to get things produced. It is always an issue when you "outsource" work, especially when it is not within a short drive.

You could blame it on Covid. Hornby always seems to do small batches, I am sure it is so it increases demand. Sadly in this day and age, the people that seem to gain are the Sellers on EBay when a model is really wanted. Hornby just get the standard fee for making a model, the only advantage with this model was that they could fix the price.

I suppose Jimyjames, you buy the set then sell on the stuff you don't want. It is easy for me to say, I must admit I have a Pendolino Train set that I bought just for the Pendolino and have never got round to getting rid of the bits I don't want.

To be quite honest, the thread was nearly complete anyway. Hornby has completely sold out of them, I think they had 6 months ago, so even if someone wanted to buy one they can't. All the Hornby Coronations are nice locos even without the metal body and I must admit, mine run really well.

Being as there are quite a lot of people on this site that don't like solenoid operated point motors (not me), then I assume he was looking for a motor diven one. Sort of thing DCC Concepts make.As I say I am into the magnetic ones, the only issue being NEM sockets are not standard. When Hornby fit them to coaches that are the right size, unfortunately Bachmann ones are too wide.

I must admit I bought a set of those magnetic couplers, wonderful things. If it is a good idea, someone will come out with one, there are lots of companies that see a gap in the market to make things. I suspect he wants it motorised so he can do it remotely, either by a switch or using DCC.

What you need to do is do a continuity check between pins ! and 8, and 4 and 5, just in case water has caused a short circuit between track voltage and motor feed. If there is a short on these pins it will blow up the decoder. I always check continuity between adjacent pins they should all be open circuit, except pins 1 and 5, which should read the motor impedance/resistance. Also with nothing in the 8 pin socket check there is no connection between pins 1 and track and pin 5 and track. I have had locos where Hornby have created a short in production.between pins, hence why I check, it is rare though. If you ever buy sound decoders it is always a good idea to buy a LaisDCC decoder, to test before you put the sound decoder in, the LaisDCC decoder is cheap (about £10) and better to blow up, than an expensive sound decoder.

Most firms monitor Social Media, so I see no reason why not, but who knows.

Yes, my apologies, I misread your post first time round..

I did wonder that. I tried my spare Merchant Navy DCC deoder which I would have thought would have been later and but that was the same. It was only the class 66 that was newer. Sadly they all exerted the same fault. I have a Princess Elizabeth arriving in the new few days, I wll fit it to that, I suspect there will be no issues. I would really like to know what that motor is doing? Perhaps it is overcurrenting, but it is not as if I was running at full speed (I think I did try that as well). I must admit that would make sense, to switch off the sound to protect the module. It probably only needs one transient event. I suppose the error is not switching it back on when the current gets back to normal, but I am only guessing. I even tried another Princess Coronation Class loco that has the same decoder and that was perfectly ok. I did think of swopping tenders but then I would have to double check that the wiring was exactly the same, it should be, but I have been caught out before. The thing that really annoys me, is I have bought of lot of these and now I seriously worry when the next one is going to fail. When I blow them up that is my fault, but when they just die without reason that I cannot understand.

Ok then, the short answer is, it does but you just don't notice it as the time scale is too short.

"Stay alive" is a capacitor that gets put across the rectified DCC signal that the decoder receives. Basically the capacitor retains the rectified voltage, if the DCC signal disappears. The size of the capacitor determines how long the voltage will stay, but in reality it is a relatively short time probably less than a second. If you had a carriage full of capacitors then you might be able to retain the power for tens of seconds, but the problem is it would take tens of seconds to charge. As the "Stay Alive" is across the rectified signal it feeds the whole decoder plus the motor, unless the "Stay Alive" has been designed not to feed the motor. If it didn't power the motor as well, then it would last much longer. The reason the motor doesn't run on, is that the capacitor can only power the decoder plus motor for a limited timed, so you never notice it doing anything. That is the reason they cause so many issues when trying to read CV values, the programming voltage is only on for a short period so the capacitor cannot charge up enough, so the decoder doesn't work properly. Sorry RAF96 it does power the motor, as the Chrissaf circuit shows the "stay alive" going directly across the output from the bridge rectifier, this powers the motor as well as the module. If it was across the voltage regulator (very small 3 legged chip, that I assumes provides 3.5 v to power the micro) then it would not.

I didn't change the id, they were all set at the reset value of 3. Actually, howbiman that was pretty much what I figured, or that the TTS decoder uses a "watchdog timer" (a piece of hardware/software thar resets the micro if it gets in difficulty ). Either way the module is doing a reset but is not going through the normal startup routine, so the sound doesn't start up again. Alternatively, they decided to switch the sound off as a safety factor as the motor is drawing too much current, or something else. Either way it makes no dfference, other than changing the motor there is no way out and I am not going to do that, it is one of my best runners. As I said I have now fixed it by using someone elses's sound decoder. At least I don't have to worry about running it on a hot day now. I did check the versions using the CV read, yes the one in the loco was early ( I think it read 35) but the class 66 was supposedly late, reading 135, but there again they may have been version numbers of a different kind. They both exihibited the same fault. As I say it is fixed now. I could check the motor current, but I think I am finished, before I actually damage the loco. Yes before someone asks I did run it on a session lasting for a about an hour just in case it needed running in. Oh, forgot to mention once the sound if off, just switch off the DCC (I can do that really easilly with the Fleishmann), switch on DCC and hey presto sound on for another 3 circuits. Just to check it wasn't my Fleishmann throwing out error frames, I ran my brand new Princess Elizabeth with TTS decoder on the same track, no issues at all. As I say, I tried everything I could think of. As I say it was a Factory Fit TTS, so it is not one that I added.