ColinB

Yes R8117 is the correct one, you will need to change the speaker to a smaller one.

That may explain the difference 96RAF, but you are not entirely correct. The Zimo decoders just don't bring out the extra wires but the architecture is the same. Obviously the Hornby and ESU must do the same. Sorry but I am not using the blue wire nor any functions, it is driving a tank engine or are you saying that the voltage regulation is different. Or is it that the good ones use full wave rectification (4 diodes) whereas the others only use two diodes.

Look up a CD drive see what current that takes.

Thanks Brew Man I was wondering if the Train-O-Matic ones had the same issue, having only used 8 pin variant, but from what you say it is ok. So it looks like I will put that one on my list to order. I suppose it depends whether it is an 8 pin one with just a different connector or a unique design for N gauge. I suspect it has to be something to do with current, the DCC Concepts one eventually expired when fitted to the Bachmann Tank engine.

Does anyone know a lot about the internals of a 6 pin decoder. I have noticed that some 6 pin decoders will not drive OO based models even if as in my Bachman tank loco case the standard fitting is 6 pin. I generally lookup the output current, but even when it states it will handle 0.5 amps they quite often won't work, failing to drive the loco (yes they are in the right way round). Now Hornby, Zimo, Bachmann and ESU ones work perfectly, DCC Concepts and AE ones (my latest) don't, they hardly turn the motor. Now in the past I have tried contacting DCC Concepts to find out why but just got, "check the current limits". Well as a retired electronics engineer I did that and it was well within the range. Normally I use 6 pin Zimo ones that work perfectly but currently they aren't available. Any ideas?

I suspect a CD motor will draw less but I don't know. I do know a 5 pole one draws a lot less and is about the 450 to 500 mA. I was going to fit one to my Ringfield based Duchess of Sutherland. In the end I found my old tender driven body would fit the next version which was loco driven, so I bought one of those chassis and did the conversion.

You don't say which DCC sound decoder it is, which will be of enormous help. To me it sounds like decoder is going into current limit mode. If it is a TTS decoder the current limit is 0.5 amps, a tender driven Ringfield motor draws about 0.6 to 0.8 amps on startup, possibly even more. It sounds like the decoder is shutting down due to over current. Usually when I get it wrong the decoder smokes but it sounds you have been very lucky.

In that case avoid the Hornby decoders they are only rated at 0.5 amps, you can get a Zimo 8 pin off YouChoos that will source 0.8 amps, currently that is the only one that is in stock. They currently are £24 + P &P. I use these for all my Duchess locos and they work perfectly. They are also a lot more robust as long as you don't accidentally connect DCC input to the motor outputs. The ESU non sound decoders are also ok. Avoid DCC concepts or Gaugemaster in my experience these have issues with the higher currents. if you do want to replace the motor I found Royal Scot ones fit, I think you can still get them and they are cheaper that the one recommended for a Duchess, which you currently cannot get.

Topcat from opening many locos, wiring is not a top priority on Locos for Hornby. I must admit on the newer ones it is a lot better. I think they have started to employ decent electronics people. On the Royal Scot/Patriot it is so bad that when you pull off the body the base plate generally separates from the boiler. When they were put together pushing the chassis in the wires slide easily but they "ping" apart once in the loco, hence why when you try to pull it apart it is extremely difficult. I find I have to use that super thin tape in most cases, instead of normal insulation tape. Generally on virtually all my Hornby locos with a tender I put the decoder in the tender as it makes the wiring easier but I must admit on my P2 it is still in the loco as I added firebox flicker and a front headlight. If you want to add sound there is just enough room to put a YouChoos IceCube speaker under the cab.

I didn't realise X6331 was the motor out of a Tornedo, that should fit ok, which obviously it does. Have a look at the location of your wires to the motor, on most of the locos I fix I find if is not located properly it makes fitting of the body difficult. I normally black tack them to the top of the motor with a covering of tape ( stops the black tack sticking to the body when it is on), then feed the wires down the space where the motor narrows because of the brushes.

Sorry didn't notice this one. The P2 uses the 3 pole can motor, I replaced it with a Pendolino motor. I had to remove the flywheel and worm drive off the old motor using an extractor. There is a YouTube video from some guy explaining it all. I don't remember it being that difficult. The Pendolino motor is exactly the same as the original in size and terminals but it has twin worm drives that are shorter (hence why you use your originals).

For a start all your units are wrong 1.0 mAh 0.9 mAh, you obviously didn't mean that 1.0mAh, so what is it in amps or milliamps. Your units read as milliamps per hour (mAh) which is not a unit I recognise. Normally we rate batteries as ampere hours. Sorry but I have to question as to whether you are measuring the right thing. If your motor was drawing an amp it would get extremely hot, especially if it was a can motor.

Of course they will, I have an Elite and so far I have not found one decoder that does not work and I have tried many. Hornby prides itself in obeying the DCC standards if 96RAF is to be believed, so they should all work. I had issues with my Fleishmann Twin Track driving the new Zimo MS range of sound decoders but they worked perfectly with the Elite. The ones I have had most issues with are Gaugemaster and DC Concepts where sometimes the Elite will not read CV values, but a lot of people on here rave about them.

Of course they will, I have an Elite and so far I have not found one decoder that does not work and I have tried many. Hornby prides itself in obeying the DCC standards if 96RAF is to be believed, so they should all work. I had issues with my Fleishmann Twin Track driving the new Zimo MS range of sound decoders but they worked perfectly with the Elite. The ones I have had most issues with are Gaugemaster and DC Concepts where sometimes the Elite will not read CV values, but a lot of people on here rave about them.

So November 2023, really equates to Summer 2024. I thought initially in the catalogue they marketed one without steam and the DCC sound, the other had it all. I ordered one as it seemed good value for money but who knows when we will ever see them.

I use a DigiKeijs and I have no issue with the locos fitted with TTS. Most of my TTS decoders are less than 4 years old so that may be the difference. To be honest once TTS decoders are running they work OK, you just have to be careful to allow air to pass over them, cooling seems to be a big issue. Definitely be careful on hot days in the loft.

I forgot to mention, when you attach the two wires to the pickups file down the circular lug that used to connect the chassis to the pickup. Leave about about 1 to 2 mm as it helps to locate the pickup plate.

I forgot to mention, when you attach the two wires to the pickups file down the circular lug that used to connect the chassis to the pickup. Leave about about 1 to 2 mm as it helps to locate the pickup plate.

The replacement tender bottom comes with wheels but the old ones will fit anyway. The tender should fit if is attached by the one screw at the front, I don't think Hornby ever made a Railroad version of this model, so all the loco driven tenders attach the same.

You can do this two ways, either use the existing wire for one side and use the wire that should be attached to the motor cover screw as the black wire, or you can add wires to the pickups. Yes, you can attach wires to the pickups I have done it to all of mine. When you take the pickup plastic plate off you find there are no wires going to the pickups but an eyelet that connects to it. I remove the eyelet and wire thin wires to both pickups. What I also do is buy a later tender base and move the DCC socket to the tender. Lendons has the later tender bottoms (X7585) complete with weight and socket for not much more than what a socket will cost you.

Thinking about it I think AndyMac has a point. Although we have been complaining about the lack of Hornby releasing the models they had in their 2021 catalogue, I am wondering if given their current losses whether they can afford to make them while using the situation in China as a convenient excuse. Trouble is if you don't make new models, do don't generate enough money to make even more ones. We are seeing on the news that there are constant "lockdowns" in China so that will effect production but who knows. I do know that the new P2 has not been released even after all the hype on the TV series.

Most of my pre-orders are from 2021 so I am saving a fortune, as the price I should pay does not include the price rises. On the 2022 pre-orders I got 10% off because I had bought a couple of locos previously off Hornby so they gave me a 10% voucher. So I am not too bothered about any reward savings. I only joined the rewards scheme so I could order the loco as it was a colour I like and Duchess locos are good runners. I just included the price of joining the scheme in the price of the loco, even then it was still good value. I was even more surprised when I got 10% off an already reasonable price.

Yes 96RAF that sounds great, but unless Hornby move the DCC decoder to the loco rather than the tender, it is not going to have much effect on the current firebox glow.

Brew Man, you can only claim dole if you have paid a full stamp, so if you are self employed or run a business where you don't pay the full NI contributions, then you have to claim a benefit that is "means tested". To be honest other than a brief period during early Covid where they made a small profit, Hornby always seems to make a loss, the issues with the first Hush Hush, logistics must have cost them a fortune.

Sorry AndyMac who said Hornby have models they have not sold. For a start they sell to a retailer so it is them that are left with the unsold stock. I doubt that they have that much stock anyway, currently their business model is small runs of models to sell to moderately well off enthusiasts. This year they have made few models, so by definition not that many to sell, add to that the tier system where Retailers are complaining they cannot get stock, so why would they be left with models they can't sell. Even if each model has a huge "markup" they are still not making enough to cover running their business. Then we have the need to make different models as not everyone wants to trade in their old Evening Star for the new one, even if it is better. I suspect one of the reasons for their venture into TT is that the market for OO is drying up.