Singer33

I've not, I took advantage of the discounts so most of the items were bought months ago or even over a year ago. It has taken until now for me to build the layout, so the problems are only just coming to light. I probably should go back to Hornby but feel a bit embarrassed for them revealing that an entire line of their products are garbage.

I do feel now compelled to comment on TT120, and for me sadly I do regret the foray I have made. The scale ticks all the boxes, finally, I can run full length express trains and whilst the roll out has been slow, I am willing to wait. My issue is the disastorous quality conrol. I have 5 locomotives and quite substantial rolling stock, probably to a value of over £1000, running on Hornby set track. Not a single locomotive operates without constsnt derailing despite running on a solid baseboard on Hornby set track. Now am finding problems with coaches derailing too. This is a massive problem for me, I have just had two hours of fiddling and trying to get the models to run, when I want to be using that time "playing trains" or modelling. I barely get any time as it is, where is the joy in messing around with products marketed as "ready to run"? To that end I do feel that I have made a mistake in investing so much time and money into this scale. In all honesty I am about ready to pack it all up and crack on with 00. Yes, I get that others don't seem to have these problems and bully for them, but I do and put simply I don't have anywhere near this amount of issues with 00 be it Hornby or other manufacturers.

Unfortunately, the only thing that dear Sam has done for me is mess up my algorithms on youtube. Lots of great content out there, useful advice, how to's and such like, the opinion of one person adds very little to the hobby for me.

Peachy, this appears to be the problem I have with Night Hawk and Trigo, the bogie fouling the steps. Can the steps be moved to correct position without causing damage, ie will I physically need to bend them or can they be removed?

The derailing is the front bogie and it takes place on Hornby set track curves. As soon as it reaches the curve it lifts off the track. This behaviour is identical for both locos (Night Hawk has not been taken apart although it has at some point lost a drawbar screw).

I've taken it apart, put together again and it does seem to work. Unfortunately the loco has now developed a derailing problem in 2nd R curves along with stablemate Night Hawk. Most frustrating having to mess about with models marketed as ready to run.

GMD/LTSR_NSE , the drawbar seems to work normally and I can't see any deformations etc. Rallymatt, I don't know and I'm not sure how best to diagnose. My intuition tells me that it is electrical as it sometimes stalls on a straight, but, it always stalls when it gets to a corner

Have searched but unable to find anyone else with this problem. I found Sound Fitted Trigo to be very jumpy starting, so I took the body off, it performed fine without the body, but as soon as I put the body on again the problem came back. Then, through trial and error, I have discovered that when the screw to the loco end of the drawbar is in, the loco stalls either from the start or if it gets going, at the first corner. If I remove the screw, the loco very happily travels the layout pulling the tender behind by the wires. Anyone else had this issue and are there any fixes?

Just lack of time for me really. A few hours a week will make layout building a long and slow process

I thought I would have another go at a Peco Kit, this time the Signal Box. Straightforward enough to put together, the real challenge presented is in the painting at such a small scale, the brickwork difficult to define but after lots of trial and error with acrylics and water providing a base and oil and thinners providing the grout, I am quite pleased. Should look nice on the layout

Has any had a go at repainting the MK1s? Could be a little project. Are decals in TT available anywhere?

I am going to purchase 2nd radius curves to complete a second loop which will go inside the 3rd radius curves that came with the William Whitelaw set. How many of the TT8004 curves do I need to buy to achieve this?

I'm sat in my deck chair in 30 degree heat, knotted hanky on head, so it must still be summer! 22nd December seems a bit late for Winter, whats that Christmas song, In the Bleak Mid Winter!

Has anyone found a good alternative to the Hornby TT120 decoupler? I have just two sidings where shunting will take place, currently fitted with the decoupler. My problem is that unfortunately they just aren't very reliable, sometimes they couplers don't lift sufficiently, even a millimeter will prevent decoupling. Plus once ballasted, they look a bit out of place. Added to manually operating them, I feel I might as well just use a flat head screwdriver! Unless anyone has come up with a good idea for an alternative?

Have not had chance to get to the layout since I posted, so thank for your assistance. When I did to the layout, it seems to have righted itself, the problem is no longer presenting itself. In any case: -Powercab supplies .13amps rising to .18 when whistle is applied. -problem only seemed to happen when running on Bluetooth -layout is wired with dropper wires off bus cables Will be back on if I have anymore problems