moawkwrd
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Posts posted by moawkwrd
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2 minutes ago, Rallymatt said:
This is a weak spot with early Peco points too. At first I thought I had caught the pips on the tiebar when cleaning track, I had two other sets fail in same way. Peco/Hattons didn’t quibble and Peco acknowledged an issue, I think the tab from the blade that passes through then folds over is too short, meaning insufficient material to locate the blade.
To the Hornby points, I haven’t heard of those failing like this before but I have of electrical continuity failure, the small contact tab detaches, distorts.I’ve only had issues with a Peco point after removing the spring (as this allows the tiebar to move forward and become loose from the blades). Otherwise they seemed pretty solid.
The issue with the Hornby ones is that the points of failure are all plastic and all separate so they can occur independently (I.e the posts can shear off the tiebar, the plastic covers can snap off, etc). So I think they’re an inherently weaker design.
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I’ve had to repair multiple Hornby points by this stage. Mostly through my own clumsiness but they’re definitely less durable than Peco, IME.
The switchblades have lugs that fit onto two small posts on the tiebar, either side of the plastic centre piece where the hole is. This plus the spring is all held down by that plastic piece. The bigger plastic square below it holds down the other end of the spring.
However that doesn’t explain what has caused it to happen to yours. I suspect it could just be the repeated action of the point motors. Repairing them with some superglue should fix them but they’re fiddly (mostly the spring which flies off).
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Yeah 6015 look to be later era than 6016 definitely.
Most suitable for the Class 08 at the moment. If we had early BR blue for the class 50 that would’ve been plausible too as they did pull freight early on. -
1 minute ago, ntpntpntp said:
@moawkwrd maybe try raising the tunnel portal a few mm? For starters it's not sitting at the same cork level as the track base and your superelevation?
Doh! Yes that should help. Back to testing
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Held off glueing down the track today - instead I added some cardboard to try and tilt the track a bit in the curves. I think it’ll be better once all properly glued down but I think you can see the effect. The Mk1s seem to scrape less at least!
I also need to rethink the location of my tunnel. Don’t think the clearance is enough on the curves for this one. Might have to build my own or alternatively use this on the single curve and flip the scenery plan.
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1 hour ago, Charlie 66 said:
Looking good! Are you ballasting as well?
In due course once I've got the wire in tube point and signal control figured out and working. Also need to paint the bits of new track that weren't transferred from my last attempt.
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Procured some additional junction signals and a further home signal for the layout.
One of the bases was broken off but I was going to remove them anyway so the height is reduced.
Also finally got the cork fixed down to match the track plan. Tomorrows job is to get the track glued down too.
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Just had my notification that my preorders have arrived. 2x era 4 coaches. Got 2x era 5 coaches and my princess coronation on order with ROS.
And my 50ft brake era 4 has arrived.
This is turning into a very expensive couple of months and still got the Princess and mineral wagons…
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Has anyone had any from ROS yet? I haven’t heard anything about my preorder except the mailer earlier in the week saying they were now in stock.
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28 minutes ago, Rallymatt said:
@moawkwrd In my experience with various locos running central motor and cardan shafts to gear towers on the bogies; there is a keeper plate over the worm drive on the top of the gear tower, releasing that allows the worm gear to come out and release the cardan shaft. Take care as there are often thrust washers as part of the worm gear assembly. Or you can release the motor itself and as it comes up it pulls the shafts out, obviously refitting is reversal. It can be tight and fiddly.
Not sure what you mean by this? There’s no plate on top of the bogies I can see. I couldn’t even work out how to remove them from the body to be honest and I refuse to start desoldering to remove the PCB to get better access.
I won’t be doing any more faffing about if it comes out again, it’ll be going straight back to Hornby.
Seems okay now - in contrast my new HST set is running around beautifully with no issues.
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Oh and I found where that bit of cab detail came from - one of the arm rests! Guess it wouldn’t have been unheard of for those to get damaged in real life either😅
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Okay I’ve fitted it again but this time, and perhaps this is what I forgot last 2 times, after getting it into the plastic cup on the bogie I’ve then pushed it back into the cup as it’s popping out of there rather than the other end.
Lets see if that works.
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Okay - some findings
It was the same bogie as the first time it came out. The other bogie seems reliable.
I’ve just refitted it and used a 9V battery to test it in situ… and with barely any bogie movement it popped out again.
Clearly there must be a specific way to refit these that I haven’t spotted on my own. Any thoughts?
Will draft an email to Hornby now with my photos.
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2 hours ago, Rallymatt said:
@moawkwrd I’m not sure how possible this is, can you disassemble the loco far enough to place the cardan shaft in place without putting any strain on the shaft? The other thought is checking that the motor or bogie assemblies are not loose. If they can ‘shunt’ fore and aft that could be what is allowing the end of the shaft to pop out.
This might be case of a return so Hornby can get to grips with it.Not sure, will have a look at it this evening once I finish work. I’ll take some clearer photos to email to Hornby before I attempt to fix it. I had to rotate the bogie to get it back in the other day and then turned it straight on to push it home and check it wasn’t still loose.
It struck me the other day that the shaft itself is awfully thin and lightweight compared to even Graham Farish N mechanisms. It looked like it would snap pretty easily. The Tillig ones are much more heavy duty.
I have a feeling this is the other shaft though rather than the same one. Serves me right for not checking it when I had it open.
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Hmm, this is annoying now.
Think the shaft has popped out again on my Class 50. Will need to take it apart again later.
It derailed on a point and then motor noise but struggling to go, same as before.
Think this is the first case of it happening more than once? Although it may well be the shaft for the other bogie, rather than the same one.
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Yes it’s the same for DPD, although they seem quicker once they’ve got the parcel at least than UPS in your case.
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Just now, GMD said:
Very useful info @moawkwrd, as wella s good clear photos, and great that you got it sorted. By the way, do you think there is space for a Powerbank behind the cab detail?
I don’t think so - it’s mere millimetres once the plastic detail piece is in place against the chassis (the black piece in my third pic).
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So I got my 50 today - didn’t get a chance to run it in until this evening and it derailed on a (dodgy) point and then seemed to have lost some power - could hear the motor running but was clearly struggling to move.
I’m not going to say it’s badly designed - as that would clearly be a lie. But it’s not user friendly to gain access if this is a common occurrence. In particular, gaining full access to the motor would require desoldering the wires to the PCB although I managed to put back the shaft without doing so, but only just.
2 things to be careful with; there are clear washer for the screws holding the PCB in place - easy to lose these.
Also be careful handling the under frame detail as this grate piece was loose on one side for mine. I’ve touched it up with some superglue.
I also think I damaged a piece of the cab detail when unscrewing those end pieces (needed to allow the wiring for the lights to be free enough to manoeuvre the PCB).
I probably won’t bother trying to find out where it belongs.
But at least it’s running fine again.
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Really tempted to have a go at repainting a couple of my Mk1s to blue/grey to run with the Mk2s and Class 50 since I doubt we’ll see them officially any time soon.
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Are we sure that the lack of padding in the outer box can be the cause of these issues? Surely the locomotive is secure in its box with foam packaging regardless so can’t move even if the inner box itself can. Otherwise it’s no different to the outer parcel itself being knocked around in transit, no? And that will certainly always happen even if padding is added to the parcel.
Seems more likely that the shaft is loose from the factory if refitting it immediately solves the problem and it doesn’t come out again on its own? The alternative is just that the shaft can become loose too easily but I don’t think we’ve heard of cases of it happening repeatedly?
Does anyone want to volunteer to violently shake their Class 50/43? 🫡
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Mine was out for delivery today too but had to rearrange to Tuesday anyway since I’m 5,330~ miles away from home until Monday evening.
Will be good if RoS get their Mk2s by end of next week as well
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Humming sound is normal - it’s the transformer noise combined with a metal casing. I’ve got several bits of GM kit and they all do it to varying degrees.
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If the 08 shocked you, there’s someone flogging a printed TT:120 catalogue for £20 already!
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Very neatly done - I doubt mine will look half as tidy!
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Motor burnout
in Hornby TT:120
Posted
Hasn’t it already been back to GM for repair?
If so I’m afraid I suspect the new controller won’t magically solve the issue, whatever may be causing it.