Eggster Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Hi guys - my first question on the forum...I'm about to build my first kit in decades. I intend to use acrylic, applied by brush.Do I thin the acrylic primer before application?Do I just apply one coat of primer? Thanks!Eggster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidJC Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Rightly or wrongly I never prime any model (unless for metaliser paints as that is very much needed and recommended). Prior ot painting I wash parts and the model as needed in warm water and washing up liquid, dabbing dry then leaving it, or frequently lightly scrubbing the model with well-moistened toothpaste and an old toothbrush. I then go straight in with the final coat(s) of acrylic paints, using an airbrush now in the main, and all paints need thinnning to a degree. Acrylic paints vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and I like many brands for different reasons and uses. All will need thinning in varying amounts for airbrushing or brushing - there is no formula, it is very much trial and error for different brands and even different colours in the same brand I have found need different thinning. Not priming a model works for me, but that's just me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eggster Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 Thanks David - I'll follow your lead! Toothpaste is a new one on me, mind you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Paul B Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 I would go with priming for acrylics. If the surface isn't immaculately scrubbed (the toothpaste idea sounds good as it is abrasive as well as a degreaser) the paint will form globules on the surface as the releasing agent will still be present.Most of the primers I have used will need thinning - water is ok but sometimes won't hold on the surface so I am probably going to try acrylic thinner next time. One problem with acrylics is low pigment density which means for pale coulours you will need a white primer to avoid it showing through. The Army Painter do a good range of coloured acryilc primers with a very high pigment density. The Humbrol primer gives good results but is really difficult to get a good white surface on top of it.Spray primers are good for aircraft as they give a very thin and even coat - again Army Painter are good and Tamiya fine white gives good results (the Humbrol grey primer is also good but grey). I have just done a Valiant in white and the spray (Tamiya white primer with Humbrol gloss white) gave a beautiful finish. Matt colours go on easily but satins can be tricky as the pigment and carrier have an annoying habit of separating and the first coat looks awful. Another thread (1/48 Canberra) suggested using thin satin coats with a layer of humbrol clear (gloss was fine) over each layer to stop the paint getting reactivated. I will be trying this soon. Gloss acrylics are like satins but even more difficult (Fluorescent Fire Orange has been a pain for me but hopefully the clear technique will help).Best of luck from another recent returner to the hobby.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eggster Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 Thanks Paul - some great advice which is much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidJC Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Hah hah, just goes to show how different people take different approaches! Yes, the well-moistened toothpaste is a very mild abrasive which does eliminate all mould-release residue after rinsing and leaving to dry. You can also use a mild bathroom detergent too like a shower cleaner as I have done in the past - again, rinse well and leave to dry. I always felt the toothpaste might also give it a microscopic key for the paint, too, otherwise yes, it paint can 'clump' or refuse to adhere to the surface. As for thinnning, I would always use the propritary thinner. I know many say you can use water, and I do for cleaning up, but I just feel twitchy about using it for thinner. I wonder if living in a hard or soft water area makes a difference, too. Over-thinning can disastrous as I have found to my cost. I thought with poor paint application I thought it needed more thinning, and so the cycle went on. In the end I concluded that the parts weren't clean enough and I had overthinned the paint too. Fortunately, with acrylic paint if you make a mistake, though it's a messy job, it comes off with rubbing with surgical spirit, even when dry. You can get a large bottle of that in chemists off the shelf, but I would suggest working in a ventilated area and with nitrile gloves just to protect skin. Use kitchen roll to wipe off and another old toothbrush to work paint out of the panel lines. Though there's broad agreement on clean model parts, including my toothpaste method, there's two differering trains of thought right here. So to be honest Eggster it's what works for you. Try each method on a scrap kit if you have one and see what you like. Let us know how you get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eggster Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 thanks again guys - this is going to be some learning curve! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eggster Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 Well, David and Paul, I completed my first build and I have to thank you for the tips. Scrubbing it prior to painting is crucial, and the right amount of thinning makes such a difference to the result! I wouldn't say I am 'happy' with the build, but I learned loads, really enjoyed it, and can't wait for the next one (I already got a Stash of 5 other spits waiting in the garage :)) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidJC Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Good to hear Eggster, I'm glad I was of some help and I expect Dad Paul B is too. In the end, did you prime the model or not bother? I modelled many years ago and got back into it a year or two ago after a break of some deal of time. Yet though I have built on what I learned back then, I think I have learned the most over the past couple of years. And I'm still learning now. It's true when they say practice makes perfect, along with patience. Even in my 20s I think I was too keen to finish stuff and would often have 2-3 on the go at any one time, none of which ever got finished as I wasn't dedicating the due amount of time to any. Now I have a strictly imposed embargo: one on the go at any one time to focus on that. Anyway. It would be nice to see a photo of you result if you are able to get one and post it :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eggster Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 David, I did prime the model, and found it to be beneficial. The thinning was crucial though, and I learned not to labour the painting process so as to avoid a claggy, thick finish. I'd prefer not to post photos of this one - it is a bit scrappy in some respects and i did experiment on it a little, with weathering etc.The next one though... I'll certainly post photos of that!thanks so much for your help and interest in my progress!Eggster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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