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Collectors Loco


KaCee

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Could anyone tell me any more than is on the site about the Collectors club loco?

Im assuming that it will not be DCC Installed as well, thats too much to ask.

Would it be classed as DCC Ready, or will it not work with DCC at all?

Thanks

in advance.
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There really isn't much to say. It's an 0-4-0 tank engine in a nice shade of purple, with Queen Elizabeth on the side and the number 60 on the cab side - to represent the Diamond Jubilee. It is not DCC Ready. You would have to install a chip for it to

work on a DCC layout. I have not done it, but if you look under Hornby DCC (on the left of the page), it will show you how to do the installation to an 0-4-0 loco. I hope this is of some assistance?
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Ok, I think I am confused...

I was of the understanding...

DCC Fitted = Fitted with a chip, ready to go on DCC.

DCC Ready = Has the "plug" for a chip, but no chip installed.

Not DCC Ready = No plug, so required soldering to

install a chip.

Am I confused somewhere?

I am hoping that the collectors train will fall into the 2nd catagory, just not the 3rd. I dont mind plugging in a chip, but I dont have a working soldering gun at the moment.
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The 0-4-0 in on the guied is a sadle tank I think, this one is not one of them, but it is the same in side and uses the same moter so it won't be too different. As Pointed out by 58001, there is probably more space in this one than the one on the guied

so it won't be too hard to get the body back on.

Jacob
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[reply]bocaj said:

The difference is important when first removing the body. The method outlined in the guide on fitting a decoder to 0-4-0 locos says that the body is removed by first pulling down at the rear to disengage the lug there, then to

pull down at the front after. However, for the 2011 and 2012 Collector locos, the correct way to remove the body is to first unscrew the screw in the chassis just behind the front coupling, after which the rear lug comes away easily. this is the first of 3

possible methods detailed on the 0-4-0 loco maintenance sheet and definitely not per the guide. It took me a while to figure this out and fortunately I didn't break anything trying to use the guide's method.
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In fact, the instructions on fitting the chip itself don't match the 2011 and 2012 locos in detail, even if they are right in the end. The instructions suggest that the motor is mounted connector side down and there is a connection to only one side pickup.

In fact, there is a connection to each pickup - the red capacitor (actually black) to one as per the instructions, and a black wire to the other - and the motor is mounted connector side up.

Consequently, you don't have to remove the motor, the assembly

can be done with it in place. All that is neceesary to fit the chip is:

- prepare the chip as per the instructions
- unsolder the red (black) capacitor from the motor connection only, leaving the other end connected to the pickup
- unsolder both

legs of the yellow capacitor which has one leg soldered to the motor body and discard, leaving the 2nd yellow capacitor in place across the connections to the motor
- solder the orange chip wire to the left connector and the grey to the right as per the

instructions (note - if you solder the orange to the right and the grey to the left, the loco will run backwards on the forward control and forwards on the backward and you'll have to re-program direction)
- solder the red chip wire to the free end of the

red capacitor connected to one pickup
- solder the black chip wire to the black wire connected to the other pickup
- now insulate connections, test run and re-assemble as per instructions

As Dylan's Grandad says, this is a simple installation,

not the complicated one described over 25 steps in the 0-4-0 decoder fitting instructions.
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