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Power surge in some cars


rupert_bolger

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Hi,

This has probably been discussed before.  Currently racing multiple cars on the ARC system.  The odd car does not always slow down when the finger comes off the trigger, meaning it crashes straight through the barrier.  Is this a chip issue?  I have cleaned the circuit so it runs smoothly and most cars run without this surge.

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Hi Rupert - is it a surge (i.e. momentary acceleration to full power), or the car just not slowing down?

 

The surge is usually due to a very brief loss of digital signal that causes the chip to go into analogue mode (and on the constant 15volts digital, that = full power). This can happen due to a break in track power or arcing (loose track connection, short over a lane changer, messy braids etc). If that is happening just before a corner, the car will go straight on. If it happens with some cars but not others, it may be the braids need tidying up (kept straight and pushed into the guide blade - and not trailing beyond the rear end of the guide) or it might be the version of the chip in that car is more susceptible to surges. I do find using INOX MX3 (just a couple of drops on the car's braids at the beginning of the day) helps cut arcing and minimise surges - but only if the braids are kept neat.

 

If the car is simply not braking, it might be the type of motor in the car. The slim-can 'FF' motor found in most Scalextric single-seater cars (plus the Ford GT GTE, Ford GT40 MkIV, Ford Cortina, Ford Escort, Holden Torana, classic Mini Cooper, VW Beetle and VW camper van) has less braking effect than the standard 'short-can' Scalextric motor. So your 'lift-off' point needs to be earlier - or learn to use the brake button (the lower 'X' button) on the ARC controller.

 

I hope that helps.

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Hi Rupert - is it a surge (i.e. momentary acceleration to full power), or the car just not slowing down?

 

The surge is usually due to a very brief loss of digital signal that causes the chip to go into analogue mode (and on the constant 15volts digital, that = full power). This can happen due to a break in track power or arcing (loose track connection, short over a lane changer, messy braids etc). If that is happening just before a corner, the car will go straight on. If it happens with some cars but not others, it may be the braids need tidying up (kept straight and pushed into the guide blade - and not trailing beyond the rear end of the guide) or it might be the version of the chip in that car is more susceptible to surges. I do find using INOX MX3 (just a couple of drops on the car's braids at the beginning of the day) helps cut arcing and minimise surges - but only if the braids are kept neat.

 

If the car is simply not braking, it might be the type of motor in the car. The slim-can 'FF' motor found in most Scalextric single-seater cars (plus the Ford GT GTE, Ford GT40 MkIV, Ford Cortina, Ford Escort, Holden Torana, classic Mini Cooper, VW Beetle and VW camper van) has less braking effect than the standard 'short-can' Scalextric motor. So your 'lift-off' point needs to be earlier - or learn to use the brake button (the lower 'X' button) on the ARC controller.

 

I hope that helps.

 

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