Analogue controller advice

[Scott -1233403]

Hey guys, I got the hogwarts Express set for my son. Had it all set up and working for about 10 mins and now its stopped. Noticed the red light on the controller isnt coming on now. Any advice would be appreciated so the controller broken

[The Doc]

Have you tried it again since it stopped working? The cheap train set controllers have some sort of safety cut-out (possibly a simple thermal cut-out if the current drawn is too great) that switches off the circuit until it has cooled down (can take up to ten minutes to reset). This frequently happens with older engines whose motors draw geater current, but shouldn't really happen with modern motors.

[Chrissaf]

As a set, the controller is likely to be either a R8250 [black & silver] or a R7229 [black & red]. Both of these controllers exhibit a similar issue, the R8250 more so than the R7229. The issue is that they shut down after about 10 minutes use if the load is too much or the speed control knob is set too high [more than half the full rotation]. If you unplug the controller and leave it for 10-15 minutes, then it will start working again if the issue is due to the one described above.

If after 15 minutes cooling down time, it is still not working, then remove the loco from the track. If the controller indicator shines again, then your loco has developed a "short circuit" fault.

If removing the loco from the track makes no difference, then disconnect the controller from the track, if the controller indicator now shines, then the track has a 'short circuit'. Read FAQ 4 in the FAQ sticky thread at the top of the 'General Discussion' forum which documents a very common track short circuit fault.

If with the controller disconnected from the track, the power indicator still doesn't come on, then the mains power supply or controller has gone faulty.

These set controllers are made very cheaply just to get you going and are not very good quality. They are not meant to be a controller for use by a serious layout builder.

This is a long reply, please do not use the "blue button with white arrow". To reply, use the "Reply Text Box" at the bottom of the page and click the green 'Post Reply' button.

PS - your duplicate post has been removed. It didn't appear straight away because the first post by new forum members are held back for moderator approval.

EDIT: DOC posted whilst I was still typing my reply.

[atom3624]

The referenced - by Chris - controllers perform a purpose, to get you going.

They work with smaller locomotives which draw less current, and on small tracks.

Anything more than that and the Hornby-recommended HM2000 is the only way to go.

There are several other 'Analogue' (non-digital) aftermarket controllers available as well.

Al.

[DBfan]

If you are going to expand your railway, invest in a DECENT analogue controller. The Hornby ones have a reputation across the board. A company in Sussex make very good transformers, much tidier and smaller than Hornby.

[Scott -1233403]

Many thanks to everyone for the reply's seems like it was the over heating. It's happened a few times give it 15 and it works again

[Chrissaf]

Until you can source a better (unfortunately more expensive) controller. Try running the loco with the controller knob set half way between off and where you have currently been setting it. This will reduce the current draw and give longer running time, maybe sufficiently longer such that it doesn't cut out at all.

[JJ73]

Hello Scott

You may want to watch a couple of vids - reviews about Controllers - so you know what to get :-

Thank you in advance 🙂🚂🚂🚂

[olly]

Sorry to be negative at Christmas but it’s about time Hornby sorted out the set controllers so they work properly.

It’s not good enough to have a brand new set and have to replace the controller straightaway.

It must put new people off the hobby. I wonder how many give up when they’re set doesn’t work and don’t continue with the hobby.

I had my first train set controller for a good few years before upgrading to a better one.

[Stubaggieboy]

Olly you have got it spot on. Those controllers are a complete load of garbage and not fit for purpose. What would it cost to put a half decent controller in all the sets so as Olly said newcomers to the hobby won’t lose interest within an hour because their new train set won’t work. It’s a total disgrace. At the moment Hornby whom I once was totally faithful to remind me of a once great car manufacturer in the Midlands who started to expect the general public to accept the poor quality vehicles they were producing and then what happened? Come on Hornby up your game or I personally fear the worst!!!!!!

[JJ73]

@ Olly :- Well the thing is - with the older set (Say thr Masters of the Glen R1183, Gloucester City Pullman R1177, Highland Rambler R1220, etc) - you will find them with the older Basic controllers - the R8250 & all you can do with them, is plug them in, then use it to go forward & reverse & choose the speed!!! Hornby have now up-graded the Basic Controller (R7229) - new things you can do with the R7229 is, on the back side - there is a "Hi-Low" switch & also a "Uncontrolled AUX DC Output 14V" for things like Lights, signals, points, etc which you will now find in the newer sets like the Hornby- Dublo R1252M, Rovex 00 Gauge Model Electric Train R1251M, GWR Freight R1254, etc - you get the idea - but you could like you said - get a even better Controller either Like the H & M Duette or the 2000!!! 🙂🚂🚂🚂

EDIT: ST posted whilst I was still typing my reply.

[The son of Triangman]

The Hornby cheap trainset controllers aren't a good design and are known for cutting out, switch off give it 10 mins to cool down then try again. I would save up a decent controller, Gaugemaster make controllers with a lifetime warranty and are about the best. Contact Hornby customer services if the fault continues or the retailer as it is under warranty.

[TFOCH]

If Hornby are supplying controllers that can't run for more than 10 minutes, then they're clearly not fit for purpose.