Jaguar 420 build ~ a vintage classic

[Ratch]

Next up is the Airfix Jaguar 420. A look inside the box reveals a many more parts than I anticipated. 

I immediately washed the runners in warm, soapy water and allowed them to air dry. With 52 assembly stages it seems more complex than any Airfix car I’ve tackled previously. I like to decide upon the finish I’ll work to before commencing. I perform a googleimage search which reveals cars in many colours that I cannot replicate or on cars with two tone schemes separated by chrome trim, which this model does not portray. Also, it is hard to find references that include images of the interior trim. I did find one site with an abundance of references for a BRG 420, though I’m a little apprehensive about airbrushing Humbrol Acrylic 239 Gloss British Racing Green. I’m leaning toward following the instructions but using Vallejo Model Air 71066 Gold (Metallic) for the coachwork. I dipped the transparencies in Klear to protect them from scratches.

I'm currently mulling over how to tackle this. Maybe a series of sub-assemblies, painted before final assembly. What colour primer to use:- Black for gold or grey for green? Not being a regular car builder, I've never been entirely happy with my car builds, but you have to keep trying don't you. Decisions, decisions...

[Ratch]

I decided to experiment with various undercoats or primers for my options of coachwork to see which turns out best. I use a test mule for this before committing to the model. From left to right I sprayed:

Vallejo Acrylic 74600 White Polyurethane Surface Primer

Vallejo Acrylic 74601 Grey Polyurethane Surface Primer

Vallejo Acrylic 74604 German Dark Yellow RAL7028 Polyurethane Surface Primer

Vallejo Model Air 71002 Medium Yellow

Vallejo Acrylic 74602 Gloss Black Polyurethane Surface Primer 

for Vallejo Model Air 71066 Gold (Metallic)

then

Vallejo Acrylic 74601 Grey Polyurethane Surface Primer

Vallejo Acrylic 74604 German Dark Yellow RAL7028 Polyurethane Surface Primer

Vallejo Model Air 71012 Dark Green

Vallejo Acrylic 74602 Gloss Black Polyurethane Surface Primer

for Humbrol Acrylic 239 Gloss British Racing Green

Here are the results after the overspray.

I will take time to consider the options.

The final image has the light from a different angle.

[Ratch]

While constructing the engine I discovered that part 7 has gone AWOL (maybe it was never there) so I had to scratch a replacement. I think it just about passes muster. I’m flitting backwards and forwards preparing parts in advance and putting little sub-assemblies together. The dashboard is being painted before assembly.

I have opted for gold with tan leather interior. These parts have been primed grey, with yellow for the gold coachwork. The chrome and metallic parts have been primed black.

[Ratch]

I primed the bonnet again, then re-touched yellow primer. I used Alclad for the chrome, and metal parts.

[Ratch]

got the airbrush out again.

[Ratch]

I brush painted the tan leather interior,

The driver was fully painted and then I could bring the interior together.

[Ratch]

I have hopefully set the steering rack to a full lock as I was unable to reposition the steering wheel.

[Ratch]

Yes, they are ejector pin marks. I'm hoping they won't be noticeable under the bonnet.

[Ratch]

The 4.2 Litre engine was fitted in the bay.

I then fitted the radiator,

and the pin marks are hidden,

followed by the exhaust system.

The half shaft was slotted into the engine and the rear axle and drive transfer assembled and fitted.

While this set, I put the windows into the body of the compartment.

[Ratch]

Installation of the rear suspension was tricky. I found aligning the five parts troublesome and having got them together, I’m not convinced the whole is true and square.

The instructions would also have you believe that the wheels will freely rotate. This is not the case. The sleeve that fits into the centre of the wheel is so tight that rotation is impossible. As I do not intend to play with the vehicle this is not a problem. The concept of working parts clearly points back to the time that model kits were intended as toys to be played with and not scale models in the sense we apply today.

[Ratch]

The fit of the body to the chassis was problematic. Location is not positive, and the windscreen popped off as I clamped the nose to get a close fit.

The sills do not meet with the door panels;

I used a clamp to close them up while the cement set.

[Ratch]

I have attempted to re-fix the windscreen with PVA, using masking tape to hold it in place.

It worked!

And the bonnet is on.

[Ratch]

I like to use PVA because it dries clear. If used sparingly, it can make a temporary fix, enabling the removal of the part at a later stage. I've tried Krystal Klear, Cyanoacrylate, Polystyrene Cement and a few other glues too, but PVA doesn't fog the transparencies and can also be used to fill gaps and even make windows if a part is lost.

Fitting moved on to the brightwork. I had no problems with the solid parts, but the clear runner is rather worn and with my eyesight I had problems identifying a couple of them. Indeed, initially I put the front indicator light lenses on the rear before I realised my mistake, but quickly rectified it. The inner surfaces of the indicators were painted with transparent orange and red paints before they were fixed with PVA. The only transfers give options for the vehicle registration plates; RLL 675 is provided, along with JAG 420; I chose the latter. With their application the build was completed.

Not the best execution of a car build, I've never managed to get an acceptable finish on road vehicles, but I've learned some things that I hope to use when I build the other 420 in my stash.

And a final picture next to the new 1/43 E-Type

[Ronald-360359]

Thanks for all the info and photos you put up very nice build of yours. First of all I bought this and built it and I notice it isn't even listed to buy anymore although I only ever saw it as pre order. Wouldn't mind getting another. Ratch I agree with it being a problematic build particularly mating the body to chassis. Lots of glue and clamping required! I actually really enjoyed making it and it tested my modelling skills. It really does look the part when finished and worth the patience required to build it. Ron SoS.

[Ratch]

Cheers, Ron. Yours turned out well. I have another in my stash to build.