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1/48 de Havilland Vampire FB5/FB9 (A06108) ~ Build Review


Ratch

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I like to choose the markings before I start building and decide how I want the model to be displayed. In this case I have selected option A, and as a pilot is provided, I shall have the aircraft in flight. Step 1 immediately requires this selection as it deals with undercarriage doors and holes to be opened for long range fuel tanks and the under-wing aerial.

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I airbrushed VMA 71063 Silver (Metallic) over the interior of the intake trunking. 

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Coverage was very good, better than I expected as I did not prime. I also started painting block colours on the pilot. 

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These were followed by washes and dry brushing to give depth. Assembly of the wheel wells at step 5 offer alternative parts for in-flight and grounded models. For the in-flight mode, steps 6 to 9 can be omitted, as can 53 to 71 later in the build.

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Two seats are offered at step 14, one for use with the pilot, the other having harness straps moulded onto the seat back. I have used the former. 

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Step 18 offers alternative parts for the instrument panel. I can only assume that one is for the use of decals and the other for painting. I think the ‘decal’ panel looks best when painted, and have used that.

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I dry brushed over the #31 instrument panel and fitted it in the upper fuselage.

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It was with apprehension that I attached the under-wing aerial; I can envision it being knocked off at some stage. 

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Assembling the upper fuselage, nose and intakes needs a flexible, multi-handed approach, to ensure that all surfaces meet properly (hopefully) without gaps. 

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At step 38 I decided to have the flaps up and so omitted steps 39 to 52. 

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With undercarriage raised I could also omit steps 53 to 71, resuming construction with the wing tanks from step 72. 

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Wing tips, ailerons, balance weights, a small tank and pitot tube were fixed, leaving just clear parts to affix.

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I have brushed on an initial coat of silver.

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Could that underwing aerial not be fitted at the end of the build,

Hi PMM,

It fits through a hole in the wing before the upper and lower parts are joined, so the way it is designed it has to be done in that order. Now that I've replaced it, that could be done at any time. If it gets lost again, it's just another piece of plastic rod and a lick of paint.

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I removed the masking to discover some areas required touching up. 

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This time I marked out arcs with compasses on masking tape and cut them, 

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then re-sprayed the silver. The yellow and black on the tail were done by hand, and the silver was touched up by hand too.

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I airbrushed Klear over the airframe before applying the decals, using Humbrol DecalFix. I really must remember to apply under wing serials before fitting long range tanks and pylons. The placement of the port side under wing roundel meant that I had to cut the portion that overlapped the navigation light. With the decals applied I painted the gun ports. I then airbrushed a protective coat of Klear. I could then add the transparencies and re-fix the aerial. Frankly, as the aerial sits in the underwing roundel, I don’t know how you could apply that decal over the aerial if it was in situ.


In summary, this has been a pleasing build. Maybe opting for the wheels up version has made the process simpler, but like the other modern Airfix kits, the fit is excellent. I used only a smear of filler and was happy with the outcome, until I tried to set it on a stand. The aircraft will not sit realistically and overbalances. 

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I suspect that either the mounting holes are set too far forward, or that the weight required for the grounded version is also needed to balance on the stand. Either way, it is a disappointment, which is a shame as I think it builds nicely.

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  • 3 months later...

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