triang R 59 valvegear differences

[GeoffBristol]

I have two R 59's - both black and seemingly quite  early - but they have different valve gear details.  
The above (  loose arm from the one I have in bits )  - has a cranked shape - and a simple top connector - whereas the lower has a flat arm and more complex slotted upper connector ? Also - the central drive wheel has a counter weight section moulded in - the other has a plain spoked drive wheel.
The main one here has a single spacer between the rods ( hence shorter connecting pin ) - the other has two spacers.

 This other engine  matches the service sheet 1st Jan 1959 - showing two spacers -  s.2014 - and plain spoked drive wheel - x . 82 -  and the valve upper arm looks the same ?
Do I take it that is the early engine - and the main one in this pic is later ?
I have one in bits as the drive wheel was loose on the axle and the quartering seemed out - so in working on both I noticed the differences ? I would like to date the one I have shown here intact - with the late crest.

Did any of these come with the early crest - as the other is unlined and unmarked for some reason. The service sheet I have says 'addendum 1st Jan 1959 - so I presume the sheet was earlier than that ?

 

 

[Going Spare]

Yes, the complete loco is a possibly a later release than the one from which the valvegear assembly came or perhaps a hybrid as it has the plain coupling rods and what appear to be some of the original solid wheels. 

The model was introduced for 1956 (Service Sheet No.9 is dated November 1955) and retained the original valvegear until 1961 when the improved version was fitted together with see-through driving wheels and a smoke unit (as per S/S 9A dated May 1961). The last version, with a synchrosmoke unit is covered by S/S 77 (1970).

According to Pat Hammond's Catalogue of British Model Trains, the first release (1956-1958) was finished in BR early logo black followed by late logo black in 1959 and finally late logo green in 1960 which it carried until production ceased for 1972.  Although several modifications occurred over the years, all versions were sold as R59 or R59S (for synchrosmoke) and numbered as 82004.

[Rana Temporia]

The original version used the Princess motion bracket and there were other differences with the chassis as I have found out to my cost when repairing quite a few of these. I’m not sure if the early ones used cellulose acetate as I don’t think I’ve seen any warped ones, but they were a very shiny plastic and the decals rubbed off very easily. There are also a number of shades of green used through the years. 

I got one of the very early ones in a box of junk once and it was seized solid, a bit of cleaning and lubricating and off it went like new. Also in the box was a fully working plunger Princess with a half decent un-warped body and various other contemporary items plus several Dapol ex-Airfix kits. A very odd mix. 

[GeoffBristol]

Thanks - the stripped one is indeed very shiney plastic and totally bare of all lines logo no's - and i sort of like it like that ! I rebuilt it and had a disaster tightening the valve gear screw - it sheared off ! So am now looking out for a donar wheel - or just the pin, as they come out easy enough witht he wheelset split.

I am sharing a motor between the two as I pinched one for a nice little saddle tank I recently aquired. I have seen a black one today with the early crest - hunting for cheap wrecks for a spare motor and wheel etc.

I could have bought a new one when I was 6 !

This forum seems to have changed layour for the worse -  so have had a job finding your replies ? - I only found them from my activity menu button.  I could not find my original post at all ?

 

 

[Rana Temporia]

There are usually plenty of chassis blocks with wheels on eBay for not very much money, just make sure you get the right one! The motor is a standard X04 so watch out for damaged or badly repainted Nellies/Jinties and the like described as runners which you can still pick up for less than a second hand motor. 

[GeoffBristol]

I have temp fixed it with a little wheeze for now - fashioned a new pin from a brass Ba cheesehead  bolt - filed the head to fit the recess - then filed the sides to accept the upper valve arm slot  - then put the nut in place of the screw.  I then soldered the nut to the bolt. The filed it down to a slight dome head. Will not come apart - but one side of the rods can be easily inserted while still attached to the wheels. It is possible to attach the entire wheelset and rods to the front cylinder block - then drop them into their slots ( with open anxle boxes ) - but fiddly !

What I would like to know - why are these engines so quite when they have no body on - and so noisey when its attached ? I have tried way to dampen them but both I have are the same - and nothing seemes to work.

[Rana Temporia]

The hollow body acts as an amplifier as it reflects around the noise generated by the chassis. One old way of dealing with it was to glue some foam/polystyrene on the inside of the body where it wouldn't foul any moving parts or come into contact with anything hot to absorb the sound energy. Use PVA so as to not melt the foam. 

Modern locos have almost every bit filled with weights, DCC sockets and the like so don’t generally have this problem. 

[GeoffBristol]

yes - I tried with body on and no chimney screw - and it was quieter ?  Also - with screw in and lightly tightened, better ?  I thought on foam - and settled for now on a block of foam with a hole in that presses over the chimney screw - then compresses a bit when tightened. Also - saves the screw falling out the body when you forget its in there and boucing on bare floorboards - and ending up nowhere near where you dropped it ! Just have to be careful with any foam above the brush wires.

A good adhesive for hard plastic is standard decorators caulk - not sold as an adhesive - but acts well as one. Sticks well to shiney hard surfaces - but peels off when needed ! It's also very cheap at £ 1.30 a 350ml tube and is acrylic based. Its very effective on foam and polystyrene - and also track and cork.