Ratch Posted April 14 Share Posted April 14 This build will be a little different from my usual review builds, which are normally straight from the box, only using what comes in the kit (in the case of Gift Sets), and except for consumables on the larger kits. Some of you may know of my interest in the 20th Fighter Group who were based at Kingscliffe in Northamptonshire. I like to model aircraft associated with this Group and the decals provided with this kit give me an opportunity to finish this aircraft as 472519 LC-D Gumpy, an aircraft of the 77th Fighter Squadron. I prepare for the build by washing the runners in soapy water and allowing them to air dry. While waiting I can research the aircraft. My reference library includes 20th Fighter Group by Ron MacKay ISBN 0-89747-368-X and I can check for any corrections that may be required. I have Carpena squadron code letters and Ventura serial numbers, and I will attempt to freehand the nose art. I examined the instructions and planned my build sequence. Initially, I painted the pilot figure and cockpit prior to assembly. I also painted the propeller tips and then the blades and spinner. Details in the cockpit were picked out with a brush. Before assembly, gates must be properly cleaned up or it will result in misfitting parts. Simple nail files do an adequate job, though the more experienced might perform the task quickly with a sharp knife. One anomaly I must point out on the instructions is the glue indication when fitting the cockpit into the starboard fuselage. The places to run the glue are indicated in yellow – a very good idea – but the indication is that glue should be applied on the upper side of the whole guide moulding. In fact, the rear portion of the innards goes under the guide moulding, so the yellow indicator should be underneath. One of the simplifications in the design of this kit is that the inner undercarriage doors are part of the lower wing moulding. Some modellers like to have these open on grounded aircraft. In fact, the doors were held shut by the pneumatic system and would only drop to the open position if that bled off. As I am modelling the aircraft in flight, this feature is useful. The tail wheel gives a problem though. The doors for the tail wheel are moulded open whereas the in-flight mode would be with the wheel retracted and doors closed. To portray this, I cut the doors off and replace them with some scrap plastic card. No filler was needed throughout the build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 The canopy was fixed with G-S Hypo Cement and then masked ready for spraying and the airframe was primed with Vallejo Acrylic 70602 Gloss Black Polyurethane Surface Primer. I then masked the nose and airbrushed AK Interactive AK479 Xtreme Metal Aluminium over the airframe. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 Masking ensued before spraying with Ammo Mig One Shot White Primer and followed by further masking before spraying Vallejo Model Air 71001 White. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted April 17 Author Share Posted April 17 I masked for the anti-glare panel then sprayed Vallejo Model Air 71043 Olive Drab. I could then remove all the masking, except for the canopy, and touch up where required. I then hand brushed the stripes on the nose with Vallejo Model Color 70950 169 Black. I then prepared for the decals by spraying Klear as a gloss foundation. The decals were laid down using Vallejo 73212 Decal Medium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted April 18 Author Share Posted April 18 I fixed the drop tanks, the aerial mast, the propeller assembly, and the exhaust stubs. A protective coat of Klear was airbrushed over. Then I dabbed in the navigation lights under the wing. The masking was removed from the transparencies and Gold-Zack Strick-Elastic knitting-in elastic made the aerial wire. To conclude, this is a delightful kit to build, giving the novice modeller a good experience. Disregard my dodgy markings, the kit markings will be perfect to use, like the kit, much simplified from what the experienced modeller might demand. Yet the model itself appears to be quite sophisticated, and represents the Mustang well to my eye. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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