Shadow.Monk Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Hi all,I got my own Devious Diesel model today and it looks great. When it runs the body shakes quite a bit and my other locos don't do it, is there anything wrong?The body doesn't feel as though it's loose from the Chassis and it runs well, just jerks a little bit but the track coulddo with a clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moomintroll Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Mine runs very smooth, Was he new or second hand? I've seen this sort of problem on some engines I bought of ebay and normally comes down to one of the folowing:1: Missing friction tyre2: bend/distorted wheels/axels3: The side rods not being correctly aligned (although on diesel this would be quite obvious).4: Bumpy or sightly bent track, esp on the tightest rad as it's alredy a big squeeze to fit all 6 wheels on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow.Monk Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Moomintroll said:Mine runs very smooth, Was he new or second hand? I've seen this sort of problem on some engines I bought of ebay and normally comes down to one of the folowing:1: Missing friction tyre2: bend/distorted wheels/axels3: The side rods not being correctly aligned (although on diesel this would be quite obvious).4: Bumpy or sightly bent track, esp on the tightest rad as it's alredy a big squeeze to fit all 6 wheels on.Hi there,The side rods seem fine apart from the center wheel to the back wheel it is slightly lowered, I'm guessing this is because the back wheels are motored and san be lifted up slightly?The look of the wheels seem fine, do you mean something may be wrong on the inside of the wheels? As they look fine from the outside.The friction tyre, i'm guessing that is the band around the center wheels, they are not missing they are present :)The track I own seems to be fine, the only curves I have are first radius which the wobbling is more obvious around the corners but he seems to wobble a little bit on the straight pieces of track but it's not that bad.Any help would be very appreciative :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow.Monk Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Ps: the loco was bought brand new :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 The SSPP chassis is known for it's wobbliness when running, the traction tyres don't help but you need them for traction!The body is the old ex-Tri-ang class 08 shunter, you could fix a Tri-ang 08 class/jinty chassis to the body if you want a less wobly running chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 The SSPP chassis is very light for the large body and causes a lot of visible wobble. The cast Tri-ang chassis is more solid and better for the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 As has been said check side rods, wheel quartering, rough track, and check traction tyres to see if they are tight on the wheels.The back wheelsets are sprung and should float about a little.If that dosn't then either take it back to the shop or return to Hornby or replace the chassis with something more stable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow.Monk Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Thanks for the advice :)I am fairly new to this model railway hobby, can you please explain to me what Wheel Quartering is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Essentially it's the positioning of the wheels on the axles. Look at the wheel were the coupling rod pin sits into the wheel, the spoke directly above the hole where the coupling rod pin fits in is the one to look at. Say this spoke is set to an exact 9 o'clock position, the corresponding spoke on the wheel on the other side of the loco on the same axle should be set to exactly 6 o'clock, that's a 45 degree, quarter position or quartering. Any deviation from this will either cause the rods to lock up or if slightly out will cause the model to run like a bag of spanners.There are more scientific explanations but I have tried to keep it as simple as possible and not blind you with science as you are fairly new to this hobby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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