Scorpians Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 First off let me say this is a cool forum with helpful people and iv learned alot by just reading. ok i have a frieghtmaster pack from when i was younger. i have got back into it and would like to make a layout.if i went out and bought a dcc set, would my 37 still work on it. also the new sound ones are awsome i thinking of geting one of them but im not sure on the whole dcc aspect. maybe im overthinking it, anyone can shed some light or point me in the right direction i would be greatful. my plan is have an outer ring with a HST in swallow livery for passenger and inner ring and sidings for frieght. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Any loco that you want to run on DCC must be fitted with a DCC decoder (chip). Most modern locos have a socket fitted ready for a decoder to be plugged in. These are called "DCC ready".Older locos that don't have a socket fitted need to have the decoder soldered in, called hard wiring. There are quite a few sites that give details of how to do this and plenty of people on this site who will be willing to guide you through the process.There is a facility on some DCC controllers to run one loco that has not been converted to DCC but this is not recommended as it can quickly burn out the motor on some models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poliss Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Totally agree with Rog. The Class 37 can be converted to DCC by hard wiring a decoder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil_Spiegel. Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Although the older loco(s) can be converted successfully (and mine have been converted to Zero-1, 30 years ago, and then to dcc this decade), I have to suggest, that since the release of the economical 'Railroad' range, you might like to consider buying the new Railroad (remotored) versions which also have all-wheel pickup instead of (typically) just one side of each bogie. The newer models also have better wheels standards in many cases.By all means keep your favourite bodyshell - but use it on the new chassis for better running and taking less current! You will also avoid the possible pitfuls of either wekened magnets (old motor types) or the problems of insulating the 'chassis' side on the 'Ringfield' type motors.If you then keep the new bodyshell, you can 'swap bodies' to have both in your collection whilst having the cost of only converting 1. (no problem with diesels) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank64 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 hello all, I am looking for a little help on trying to convert some older diesels to DCC, I bought allot of loco's back in late 80's and 90's with the intention of creating a layout, but I never got around to it.... recently I started work on a layout, I purchased the DCC controller and several decoders, I have taken a couple of loco's apart but not sure what next step should be, the decoders are 8 pin, but there is nowhere to plug it in, should I splice the black wire on the decoder into the black wire in loco, same for the red ?? any help greater appreciated. Currently living in the US, no Hornby stockists over here that I could find... and one other quick question, the member club loco's, is it possible to convert them to DCC too ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poliss Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 The rule for wiring non DCC ready locos is, Red and Black to the Track. Orange and Grey the other way.Hornby have put some guides on the website. https://www.hornby.com/hornby-dcc/decoder-installation-guides/There are other websites that have more guides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flashbang Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 HiNo, do not try splicing in red to red etc all you will do is blow the decoder immediately the loco is placed powered rails.You need to look at each loco in turn and determine the style of motor used. Many of the period you're mentioning are Ringfield motors (Pancake looking motors).If they are of this style then you'll need to determine whether or not the left-hand motor brush strip is in contact with the wheels or metal of the motor/motors chassis.Failure to remove any connection that may exist on this left-hand strip and just connect the decoder will again result in immediate decoder failure!!!All this was explained in an earlier post of mine here...https://www.hornby.com/forums/hornby-forums/hornby-digital/1042/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackbird Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Can I expand on Flashbang's reply; most older DC motors and early ringfield motors depend on the chassis as an electrical connection between the rail and the motor. With DCC the motor MUST be completely isolated from the track, the only connections being the orange and grey wires from the decoder. As previous, failure to observe this will lead to decoder failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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