poliss

On my DCC system, you run the locos round the track at different speeds, timing them with the stopwatch facility on the tablet, and the program calculates the speed matching required.

You may have problems matching the speed of the locos. The standard Hornby decoder doesn't support this feature. I don't think the Select supports speed matching either, but the Elite certainly does.

Ah rivets. I was thinking of rivets, as in counters. 😳 😆

Measuring to see what size the hole in the base was needed for some sort of craft fruit tree thingy.

Been througn every box twice, if not six times. Last I saw them was when I was measuring a twig for the missus.

I'll be using the chainsaw to take my flat apart in an effort to find out where my good set of vernier calipers went.

Only needed the one. Got boxes and boxes full of drills, but didn't have a 15mm one that would fit in my drill. Only £2.46 inc. P&P.

15mm blacksmith's drill with reduced shank.

Open it up and look.

Hattons describe the United States Lines as being compatible but no socket.

Converting locos to DCC isn't that hard. Even I can do it. There are many firms that only sell decoders, and a lot of those decoders don't come with a plug. Those businesses seem to be thriving.

People will just buy sound decoders made by other companies and Hornby will lose out, as they already do.

I think it's ectremely likely that Hornby will be sellingb TTS decoders as a seperate item sometime in the future. They should have done so from the very beginning, but Hornby are always very slow on the DCC front.

I read a post from a model shop owner who said he made more money selling the bits and pieces than he did from selling train sets. You can't survive by just selling locos. Once a set is bought at Xmas, you need to sell everything that goes with it for the rest of the year.

No John. Profits would rise as people would buy them to fit into their existing locos of whatever brand they happen to have.

I bought something. 😆

There's a colour coded guide for what each wire does here. http://mrdccu.com/curriculum/ready.htm You'll see that the 9th (purple wire) was really designed for JST 9-pin plugs and sockets.

The orange wire goes to pin 1. For my DCC conversions I prefer to use Kapton (Polyimide) tape. It's heat resistand and the adhesive doesn't go all gooey as the adhesive on other tapes can over time. Decoders can get very warm and need ventilation or they could overheat. Thick tape on top of the decoder may not be a good idea. We don't need so many lights, (ditch lights etc.) Wobbly, because all our tracks are fenced in to keep the great unwashed from straying onto the track. 😆

Even lightweight ones shouldn't derail. The bogies on my Arnold GG-1 are as light as a tenth of a feather, but they don't derail.

It might not be the weight. It could be that the spring is too strong or too weak. It could also be the design of the connection to the loco.

I don't see how the motor could affect the traction tyres. Could you be more simplicit?

I posted about what I got for Xmas, but I don't think the forum filters like the American term for refigerated wagons. lol

A reefer and three 70 ton ore cars.

Where did you buy it from pugtop? First port of call is always with the retailer you bought it from. That's who your contract is with. Did you buy direct from Hornby Nick? They have to refund the postage if an item is faulty. It's the law.

I believe people use replacement bearings. Markits M84 Romford 4mm Scale Plain Pin-Point Bearings could be the ones used, but you'd need to check. Possibly Peco brass bearings. Again, you'd need to check.