poliss

Possibly R.2059 from 2000. It's the only one I found on the Hornby Guide website with Super Detail. http://www.hornbyguide.com/item_year_details.asp?itemyearid=6032

Although it's possible to run two motors from one powerful decoder, (that's what's in the DDA40X), I'd go for two N scale decoders.

You click on the number of bids WTD and that shows certain information about the bidder, such as how much feedback they have and what percentage of their bids have been with that seller. In bid shilling, a seller sets up a fake account, or gets a friend to bid. They then bid up to get a buyer to up their bids, or in bid sheilding they bid up until they find out how much the buyers maximum bid is, then they withdraw their bid, leaving the second highest bidder as the winner. As I said, it doesn't look like it happened in this case as no bids were withdrawn.

You've never heard of bid shilling WTD? Doesn't look like it in this case, but it's the reason I bid once and in the last three seconds before an auction ends.

The buyer has zero feedback for anything WTD. Not just that purchase.

Just what I was thinking RDS.

You'll never catch me bid nibbling. Bid once, bid your max and bid in the last three seconds is my motto.

The socket was wired incorrectly RAF. Plug has fixed it so that it's wired the right way. I was just pointing out an easier way of fixing things.

Hornby have made a video that explains how to change CVs using the Elite. :-)

Don't think you needed to rewire the socket. You could have changed the default direction in CV29. For reverse direction, DC Off and Long Address enabled you would write 35 to CV29.

Depends on how old it is. If 6 months old, or less, take it back to the retailer, not Hornby.

The Hornby decoder is fine on DC. You won't cause any damage to it. Just to check, you have selected the loco before pressing the function key? The reason I asked if the loco goes in the same direction as the others is that the wiring on the socket may be reversed, in which case the lights won't work.

Does the Belle go in the same direction as your other locos when forward is selected?

Did you press and hold the Function button + 1 for one second?

Hornby have pubs? Do they sell Spitfire ale? :-)

The Green wire is mentioned as the common return because that's what Peco use. It's not recommended to use a CDU with a Hornby R.044 Passing Contact Switch. See the Platelayers website to find out why not, and also lots of other stuff about wiring points. :-) http://www.freewebs.com/platelayer/tipsandwiringdiagrams.htm

DCC Fitted locos either have X, XS or TTS at the end of the R numbers. R3297X for example.

As fazy said, modern decoders have TV suppression built in. There's no longer any need to keep them on DCC converted locos. If after conversion you do get intererence, then you can easily refit the capacitor, but try without them first. They're only really necessary on DC locos these days.

Haven't had my old Piko loco running when my new digital telly on so far, so don't know if it affects the picture. The old analogue steam wireless is still going strong with no plans to turn it off yet, so a DC loco without capacitors will certainly interfere with it.

My old East German DC locos still caused plenty of snow on my screen and I was using a digital Freeview box 2e0. No capacitors fitted to them.

What's the R number of your loco? Is it tender driven? With modern decoders the capacitor can be discarded.

What were those little bricks you used to make realistic looking buildings from. The used to have pole things in too, but not Bayko.

Blurb for the Bristol and Somerset exhibition this October says "One of the Dublo Layouts is Expected to be A Dealer's Demonstration Layout As Supplied by Meccano Ltd."

People who have restored their Honby Dublo have used Fairy Powerspray or Mr. Muscle oven cleaner to remove the paint on the metal bodies, then resprayed them using an airbrush. You can find out how they did it on other forums.

French. Mille=1,000.