poliss

Lenz, TCS.

Have you got time to un-order it? There are a lot of things you can't do with it.

Don't use the 6 pin decoder from the B Team.

Is this your model? https://clarahost.clara.net/www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/hornbyschoolsdccinstr.htm

No need to take anything apart. You connect the wires from the controller to connector strips, such as seen here. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Images/Products/size_3/TLCON2X.JPG I suggest you have a look round Brian Lambert's website for lots more information. http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/

One wire goes to the left rail and the other goes to the right rail. Here's a diagram of how it's done. http://www.mrol.com.au/Articles/Electrical/Buses.aspx

A bus wire is simply an extension of the variable DC output wires from your controller. The same wires that you would normally connect to the power clip or power track. The mains don't come into it at any stage.

The answer from Hornby was "The R8203 is a Rolling Road for Live Steam locomotives. The Rolling Road most suitable for DCC is the R8211." which doesn't really explain anything.

So why isn't the Rolling Road (R8203) suitable for DCC? Does it have a capacitor fitted? I'll ask on their FB page.

Don't care. You should all buy it so they continue the series and make an accurate Railway Children set, which is the one I want. :-)

So I could tell them to get off the line of course Graskie. See my sig. :-)

I'd have it, and I don't even model 00. I want everyone else to go out and buy one too, because if it's a success they might release the Railway Children next and I really want one. The 70s version was all wrong.

You can find lots of websites that will suggest all sorts of modifications for improving electrical reliability. Allen Gartner's is probably the most well known. Linky http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm

If you have droppers before and after the points then you no longer need point clips. There's not really a need to solder droppers to the points either. :-)

Are you his bank manager?

WTD doesn't want to do it cheap, he wants to do it right.

Would you use an R8249 on an older loco? I'd use a more powerful decoder which allowed function remapping.

Problem easily solved. Use the purple and green function wires. Attach both of those wires to one side, and the blue wire to the other side. You'll need to remap both function wires to the same button of course, and make sure both functions are set to turn on to constant brightness in both directions to avoid a directional smoke unit.

You would connect it to the function wires of the decoder.

A reverse loop module might come into the equation too if the bridge is to be powered at all times.

Keep on posting Vespa. Your research is very useful and I shall no doubt be referring to it in future. About the only thing I know about the Britannia's is the nut and bolt being upside down because of bad design.

Nope. The Loksound manuals say "All LokPilot decoders are set ex factory to operate in analogue mode as well". It's DC on DCC you shouldn't do.

Of course DCC locos will work on DC. It's DC locos that shouldn't be run on DCC. DC and DCC should NEVER be mixed for powering the layout. You will probably blow both controllers, decoders and maybe all the loco motors too. You can use DC to power the turntable motor of course.

Not forgetting that a nut and bolt on all of them were turned upside down after the Settle rail crash of 1960.

See the Hints and Tips section of Brian Lambert's website for track fixing across baseboard joints. http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/