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Hornby Ringfield Motors. How the brushes are wired...


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Having just answered a question on another forum, I thjought this information may be of use...

 

Most Margate made Hornby Ringfield Motors use the non traction-tyred wheels as a pick-up, direct, via the axles, to the chassis. There are three main methods that the chassis block is connected to the motor brush.



1 The better method uses a short "Bridge Wire" with two different spade connections.



The larger spade, usually silver in colour, is attached to a small rectangular protusion on the "back" side of the motor block.



The smaller spade, usually brass colour, goes onto the "Tang" ofthe brush holder, in the same way as the wire from the tender drawbar pin goes to the "front" brush holder tang.

 



2 Another method relies on a round "pin" on the motor black bearing on the back of the brush holder, under a plastic tab on th efront plate.



This pin is mazak, and the end may tarnish, making the connection poor at best. Sometimes the pin may even break off!



If the plastic tab breaks off, not un-common, then the connection is also compromised. The same can be caused by the front plate not being a good fit....sometimes the fixing lugs can get broken during removal and re-fitting for servicing.



The best thing to do with this type of Ringfield Motor is to fit a Bridge Wire, as the fixing lugs are still present on the motor block. To fit the spade to the braush holder, it may be neccessary to remove the plastic tab to allow the spade onto the tang fully.

 



3 The most recent type of Margate Made Ringfield Motor uses the screw holding the brush holder arm to the front plate to connect the brush holder arm to the chassis block.



The "back" brush holder arm screw is longer than the "front" screw, and actually goes through the front plate, and threads into the chassis block, making the circuit.


The "Front" brush holder screw is short enough to thread into the plastic front plate, and NOT touch the chassis block. If this screw is too long, it can cause a short circuit.



To convert these motors to DCC, it is neccessary to either use a plastic screw, or otherwise change the back brush holder arm fixing so as to isolate that brush holder arm from the chassis block.

 




Some China Made Ringfield Motors have pick-up wipers for both sets of tender wheels, wired directly to the revelant brush holder arms.

These are the type used in DCC Ready and Fitted Ringfield Motor models.

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  • 2 years later...

Unfortunately, you won't.  The only number sometimes visible is that of the main motor body casting.  You will need to refer to the service sheet for your model to ascertain the part number for a complete drive unit and most of the components that make up the unit.  Service sheets for most China-made locomotives are downloadable from this site, those for UK-made models are available from dealers such as Lendons of Cardiff.

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Correct information above... 😉

 

One strange thing is that on the service sheets are notes to the effect that the actual motor blocks were not available as spares (officially, anyway).

 

Every other part, but not the motor block casting.

 

Some of the motor assemblies use the same block, but sometimes different wheels, and even different axle positions.

 

So the actual assembly part number, X. Something, is shewn on the service sheet.

 

Some earlier Locomotive service sheets do not include the actual motor, a note refers you to the separate service sheet for that motor.

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Usually a dotted line around all the parts for the motor bogie designates the complete assembly.

 

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Some earlier motors have a separate Service sheet for the motor assemblies.

 

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