kevindelve Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Good morning all. Am new to this site. I have a hornby class 56, of pre dcc era, so no socket.I want to install a dcc sound chip to this loco, would the new class 47 tts be about right for it.Thank you.Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Welcome to the forums Kevin I presume you have an older single motor bogie Class 56 chassis like the one below in which case there is plenty of room to install a DCC socket and a sound decoder. /media/tinymce_upload/c4165b9bf031e7f297a918beb10a8f07.PNG You wil find installing a DCC socket just as easy as installing a decoder hard wired but you get the later advantage of being able to swap the decoder easily if and when necessary. I am hard of hearing so any noise that sounds like a tractor is good enough for my diesels. If you need any more advice about installing a socket please let the forum know.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevindelve Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 Thanks Rob, that is helpful. It is that one, with the ringfield motor I think. I have done 'N' gauge dcc conversions down to an 08 shunter and class 14xx steam, but wanted to try 'OO' with sound.Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 KevinJust do the standard check for DCCing ringfields in that when the wires are disconnected from the motor brushes that there is no continuity between either motor brush and the motor bogie wheels live side (i.e. side without traction tyres). If there is continuity then you have to isolate per one of several different methods depending upon the motor type.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevindelve Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 KevinJust do the standard check for DCCing ringfields in that when the wires are disconnected from the motor brushes that there is no continuity between either motor brush and the motor bogie wheels live side (i.e. side without traction tyres). If there is continuity then you have to isolate per one of several different methods depending upon the motor type.RobThanks for that Rob, will get my trusty multi meter on the case.Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Kevin While you have it in bits see if the dummy bogie wheels have cogs on them. If so you can swap out the traction tyred axles of the motor bogie for a new set of these. I did it on a Class 90 (see article on my linked website) and also on my ringfield Class 56 but I can't recall the part number of the wheels I used. You can also add an extra pickup to the motor bogie dead wheels for overall better pickup treliability.I will crank up the train PC later and retrieve the pictures and PN of the wheels then update this post.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 KevinUopdate to above.I used X936 wheel sets from the very old 6-wheel motor bogie, which are about the same diameter as the Class 56 wheels.Picture showing these installed with additional pickup. The other side wheels pickup from an axle wiper inside the lower chassis. /media/tinymce_upload/23b4d49b2c4d9aedeed0d38c2b15c509.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/f550e64e32414436e665e69405083d24.JPGRob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevindelve Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 That is a cracking idea, just the time to sort that.Cheers Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevindelve Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 I have been looking at the picture Rob, can you tell me what you used to make the pick-up please.Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Kevin I used Markits springy handrail wire 0.7mm but you can get 0.45mm. The 0.7mm wire was going spare as it was too big for the handrails knobs I bought. You can of course modify front bogie pickups to fit the motor bogie by cutting in half lengthways and gluing to the bogie frame. There are several ways to provide pickups including mounting to the ringfield housing. Have a look on Peters Spares for pickups for various models and see if any look likely candidates. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevindelve Posted November 11, 2017 Author Share Posted November 11, 2017 Well folks, thank you all very much for your help.Finally converted my 56 to DCC today, by wiring in a NEM socket.After an initial short circuit caused by the pick ups on the trailing bogie touching where they shouldnt, all is well now. Lights work either end, but being grain of wheat bulbs they light up everything when they come on. So may be an LED conversion is on the cards (any help would be accepted gracefully!) , as well as swapping the chip for a sound chip.Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 KevinAre the GoW bulbs still connected per the service sheet. If so I would advise you disconnect them completely in favour of LEDs. Assuming you are installing your own LEDs and not a kit from the likes of Express Models which will come with full instructions. Working from the new socket you have fitted, connect the leds thus: Important to avoid blowing the LEDs you will need a resistor/resistors in circuit to control the current - a typical standard value is 1K ohm, but you can fine tune and balance brightness with other values. You can use just 1 in the blue wire but having 1 each in the white/yellow/green wires is preferable. Blue wire to the anode of your LEDs.White wire to the front white lights and the read red lights. (cathode legs).Yellow wire to the rear white lights and front red lights (cathode legs)Geen wire to the cab lights (but both will come on together) (cathode legs).Purple wire to a single cab light (cathode leg) if you want them separate, noting that if you fit TTS sound that decoder does not have a purple wire so plan ahead. I think on my old 56 there was a plastic prism thing to route the light from the bulbs, which I removed and drilled out the body to suit 2mm LEDs. 3 x white and 2 x red at each end plus a 3mm yellow cab light poked into a hole in the drivers cab bulkhead. I have also used the Express Models kit and that was easy to install but in addition to their pcb resistors I used an extra 1K ohm resistor in the blue lead to further control current to protect the TTS decoder. Fitting TTS sound is easy. Unplug your existing decoder and plug in the TTS decoder. Find a suitable place to stand the speaker in its enclosure. We can discuss speaker installation more later. Heres a rough old picture of the job in a dual ringfield 56...You can see the resistor board for the cab lights (black/green wires) and the Express Models PCB on the right. The speaker is under the decoder facing downwards. Rob/media/tinymce_upload/bb719c187950da307cef51489cfa5e79.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 A few more pictures of a single ringfield 56 /media/tinymce_upload/7b66670d4718eb92754dab00ad5a02f5.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/6dc31eb2ce695199afe0851203c947bf.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/f320cbb3605eb2c22d70c2845ea1b170.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/a771a344e597595697695dccfc6b14fe.JPG /media/tinymce_upload/1523078e4df79fcceb756f93161b034a.JPG Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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