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Turntable Conversion


Doodle009

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Hi All,

I have just purchased the R070 electric turntable ans will shortly be doing the conversion to DCC. Looking at the conversion instructions on this site it says to remove the four copper connectors from each rail end on the turntable, otherwise

it will short out the system. My question is, if these sprung loaded copper connectors are removed what actually carries the electrical continuity across the gaps in the rails from the turntable bridge yo either the sidings or inlet from the DCC layout to

the turntable bridge? Will this not isolate the bridge completely, or will I have to run a 'live' feed to the two wires underneath the turntable that were connected to the copper connections before their removal?

Andy
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There are a number of ways of converting the turntable. Using an auto reverse unit (ARU) is possibly the best but not the cheapest. Using an ARU has the advantage of maintaining power to the bridge rails throughout the turning operation which some methods

don't. This may be important to you if you have sound locos or want to keep loco lights on.

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So after reading the older posts am I right in assuming that as I will only be using one side of the TT for my loco sidings and the bridge will never turn the full 360 degress I can set it up as follows:(due to my set up not going 360 degrees I plan to

leave the copper rail connectors in place to do what they were designed to do as there will be no positives going to negatives causing shorts):

dcc electrified line inlet to bridge using the copper tags that fit to the underside of the transition track

section and thus electrifying the bridge.

The turntable will then only use 4 of the outlets on one side of the electrified inlet which will not cause any polarity issues at all as it will not pass anywhere near 180 degrees.

The copper sprung

loaded bridging connectors that go under the siding rails will operate as they should and electrify the siding rails where the polarity will be the same.

I think this should/would work in my case as I am only going to use 4 outlets to one side of the

electrified inlet and all of these will be on one side of the TT.

If I've over looked anything please give me a shout, I'd appreciate it. All of this will be operated with a decoder and the BM Dynamis control system.

Andy
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If it helps anyone else in the futur I carried out the above procedure this evening and it worked perfectly. The only thing I did differently was to remove the two connectors that clip onto the tags on the inlet part of the TT. By doing this you are not

restricted to using that one ramp as the inlet, it means you can then use any of the ramps as the inlet ramp.

Andy
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